Metal Heads (steel guru's) QUICK

[George]

Needing some info from some of you that know and understand steel.

I am looking at 3 different Dana 35 upgrade kits. I will list each below and what I know of them. Could you tell me which would be the strongest. Or if you know of a particular kit not being so good please tell. All have 30 splines.

1. Super 35 - Induction hardened alloy w/rolled splines & Detroit Locker. 5 year warranty

2. Genuine Gears Awesome 35 - Induction hardened alloy & Detroit Locker. Unknown if splines are cut or rolled. Lifetime unconditional warranty

3. Randy's Ring & Pinion Yukon 35 kit - 4140 Chromoly axles w/Detroit Soft Locker. Warranty unknown at the moment

Initial thinking would be to jump on the Genuine with a lifetime warranty, but if I'm having to get it fixed frequently then it's not worth it.

Thanks

 

[bobdog]

The cromolly shafts are going to be the strongest if they are made right and through hardened. Find out who makes them. If you want to learn about axel shafts give Summers Brothers or Mark Williams a call and ask a lot of questions. Now that that is out of the way, none of the options you listed are the way to go. Spend your money on a better rear end 44, 60, 8.8, or 9". Take it from somone who wasted a lot of money doing the same kind of thing you want to do. Trust me you will be happy at first but before too long your Detroit locker will start making popping noises all the time. You will wonder what is wrong. It will be your bent axle tube causing missalignment. Do it right the first time you will be sorry if you don't.

 

[Milner]

I agree fully!!!! Upgrade the whole axle. You will save money in the longrun.

 

[xjc]

from and engineer,
that isn't any where near enough information to determine what will be stronger. You have to take dozens of variables into account not the least of which is the quality of the work aka if the guys who actually do the hardening, machining, finishing, etc... are doing it right. Then there is the basic design.

you could easily have a 4130 shaft that's heat treated and tempered and have rolled splines that is weaker than the stock stuff. All it would take is a bad heat treat.

go with the life time warrenty or a bigger axle.

 

[bobdog]

Originally posted by xjc
from and engineer,
that isn't any where near enough information to determine what will be stronger. You have to take dozens of variables into account not the least of which is the quality of the work aka if the guys who actually do the hardening, machining, finishing, etc... are doing it right. Then there is the basic design.

you could easily have a 4130 shaft that's heat treated and tempered and have rolled splines that is weaker than the stock stuff. All it would take is a bad heat treat.

go with the life time warrenty or a bigger axle.

This is why I suggested finding out who makes the Randys shaft. I know that Summers Produces 4340 shafts with the proper heat treating and shaft profile. The splines are hobb cut which is better than rolled or a regular cut. Mark Williams and I think Strange also make shafts approaching Summers quality. I kind of doubt that these are what Randys is offering as the cost would be prohivitive and anyone spending that kind of money on a dana35 would be crazy. As to whether someone should chose a weaker shaft with a lifetime warantee(not saying the lifetime shaft is weaker) you would have to ask what good the warantee does you out in the middle of nowhere, and you will not be able to find a replacment in town (hopfully the manufactuer is still in bussiness and producing your trick custom super dana35 shaft).

 

[troutbum]

don't know jack about metal, but I do know where you can get a great deal on some D44's [hint hint]

 

[BlackSheep]

George,
I tried to send you a warning reply earlier, but you won't find too many folks that are in support of doing the D35 upgrade.

I have to agree with all those who say to spend the money on building a D44 (or one of the other options listed by Bobdog). You can pick up a Waggy (or scout) D44 for less than $250, drop gears (should be able to find used) and a detroit and you're less than the cost of the upgraded D35.

That said, I did spring for the awesome 35 kit. I have been wheeling it hard for a year now, and have been satisfied. However, in my basement is a set of D44s that will be built to be installed in my jeep eventually. Hopefully, they will be ready before I break the D30 or d35.

Do the right thing, and do a real upgrade.

 

[tweakeyjeep]

I also want to ask some questions about this.

All I know about axles really is the more splines the stronger it is. But what does rolled, etc. mean on the shafts?

I've also been reading alot from Peterson's 4Wheel, and Four-Wheeler magazines, I have heard of Inner and Outer shafts... whats the difference?

C clip (dana 35) and Full Floater. (doesn't C clip mean if you break a shaft. You will lose brakes and tire, rim, and shaft will come out of axle? Full floater will stay put???)

I have a 44 almost ready to go into my YJ (once I can afford to change gears of 30 and throw on new suspension.) It came out of a Scout, it has been lengthend one inch on either end. Is it still too narrow for my YJ, or do you think the 2" of added length will work fine? I have some wheel spacers for it, but since I am keeping the 30 up front the bolt patterns won't match up. Should I look for some wheel spacers that go down to the correct bolt pattern? Or change the bolt pattern on the D30 by doing a Warn HubConversion???

Input and advice will be greatly appreciated!

Thanks.

 

[sukaB]

Whoever has that job is awesome...........
GOOD LUCK!!!DUDE....