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MY spring-over (pics) and tech Q's?

crimsonride

crimsonride

huh?
Location
Murray
Just finished the supsension. I have to work up some new axles now but untill then I'll have the stockers so I need to figure out some driveline angles.

Before
P1010081%20(Medium).JPG


During
P1010051a.JPG


P1010052a.JPG


After
P1010053a.JPG
 
crimsonride

crimsonride

huh?
Location
Murray
I'm stretched out to 101.5 inches now on the wheelbase, and raised up to what I estimate about 5 inches of lift. The front is going to get pushed forward 1.5 inches more next week. I haven't flexed it yet but the springs are super squishy so I expect it'll do pretty well.

Now, here's my questions. Both drivelines have to be extended so I can't just look at my driveshafts and find a good angle.

What do I need to look for when setting the angle of the pinion on the front axle? The stock shaft is U-jointed on both sides but I have a double cardan shaft I can have extended if it'll make things easier. I'm just a little concerned about castor and u-joint angles.

The rear shaft is a double cardan style so I'm assuming I can just point the pinion directly at the output shaft so I have no angle on the lower u-joint???

Now I've got to install the fuel cell, brake lines, teralow, 2 low, sye, and flares. I'm going to be busy I guess.
 
crimsonride

crimsonride

huh?
Location
Murray
Shawn said:
I have never seen shackles mounted like that before...
Click to expand...

I had to mount them pretty far back. That was just to mock the rear suspension though. I now have some bushings welded to the rear underside of my bumper for a little better angle on the shackles. You can kinda see it in the last picture.
I'm sure I'm going to hit a lot of rocks with them.
 
Hickey

Hickey

Burn-barrel enthusiast
Supporting Member
Location
Grantsville, Utah
crimsonride said:
The stock shaft is U-jointed on both sides but I have a double cardan shaft I can have extended if it'll make things easier. I'm just a little concerned about castor and u-joint angles.

The rear shaft is a double cardan style so I'm assuming I can just point the pinion directly at the output shaft so I have no angle on the lower u-joint???
Click to expand...
On the front, caster is more important that u-joint angles. Run the cv joint if it were me. You are correct about the rear. You WILL need a traction bar, ask Spencurai.
 
crimsonride

crimsonride

huh?
Location
Murray
Hickey said:
On the front, caster is more important that u-joint angles. Run the cv joint if it were me. You are correct about the rear. You WILL need a traction bar, ask Spencurai.
Click to expand...

So what is correct castor? How's the best way to set it? With a angle finder on the pinion?

The traction bar's on the way. I just forgot to put it in the long list of things it still needs.
 
Caleb

Caleb

Well-Known Member
Location
Riverton
crimsonride said:
So what is correct castor? How's the best way to set it? With a angle finder on the pinion?

The traction bar's on the way. I just forgot to put it in the long list of things it still needs.
Click to expand...


I may be wrong since I have never done it but I think the best way to find castor is a degree finder on the inner C
 
Hickey

Hickey

Burn-barrel enthusiast
Supporting Member
Location
Grantsville, Utah
crimsonride said:
So what is correct castor? How's the best way to set it? With a angle finder on the pinion?
Click to expand...
Caster can vary from vehicle to vehicle. I would find a bone stock YJ and take a measurement of that. As long as you are within a couple degrees you should be fine though. Measuring off the pinion is a good way with an angle finder.
 
crimsonride

crimsonride

huh?
Location
Murray
hehehe, you inspired me mark. They work awesome. Had to swap some springs from the front pack to the rear to make it sit level. It worked out pretty good though.
 
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