So I didn’t really do updates as I completed the Stroker build/install. Also you really don’t need pictures and description of how to pull and install a motor, there is plenty of info out there. I will detail some things I ran into that slowed me down, so hopefully you will be better prepared for them if you are doing a similar project.
Motor getting ready to come out. I didn’t pull my hood, with my gas props it pushes the hood up pretty high. I only bumped into it while installing the motor, with my engine leveler it worked out fine. I also didn’t pull the bumper, although if the bumper was out of the way the A/C condenser might go in front of the bulkhead so you wouldn’t have to lift the motor over the A/C condenser. I did let all the air out my front tires to lower the jeep some. I figured I had enough garage height and tall enough hoist that I didn’t need to pull the tires off completely.
So have you heard of the top two bell housing bolts on an xj? Yeah I hadn’t looked into them. From the factory they are E-12 bolts that are impossible to get to. Oh the joys of uni-body. Fortunately for me my father-in-law put a clutch in this xj several years ago and he used grade 8 bolts instead of the OEM E-12’s. However they are still impossible to get to. You can see one of them just to the left and bellow of the spark plug in this picture. (the driver side one… forget about it…) Just to out do my father-in-law I installed it with a pair of 3/8 studs. I figure the stud sticking out will help align the socket if I ever have to pull it apart again.
So I searched around and the answer is take the tranny out with the motor or lower the motor/tranny/t-case to get access. Of course lower the motor requires removing the motor mounts and for me two t-case cross members (oh and how could I forget the belly skid plate)
Anyway (4 hours later...) I was able to lower the motor/tranny/t-case about 4 inches, the manifold basically hit the steering shaft.
You can see on the right side of this pic the 2, ½ holes, one bolt goes through those two holes, so that shows how low my t-case is, about 4 inches.
Here was my “weapon” to get the top bell housing bolts, I used a 3/8 14mm socket (it is a little more snug than a 9/16) a wobble, and a few extensions, a breaker bar to bust it loose, and a ½ drive to get it out.
Ok so since this motor should have 20% more power than stock I wanted to replace any fastener than should be replaced. I could not find replacement pressure plate bolts (clutch cover bolts) I kept coming across this Mr. Gasket #910 as being suitable. So I ordered a set. Here is a pic next to OEM
Notice the shoulder is a little longer. I bolted one into the flywheel without the clutch disk in place. When the bolt bottomed out I could easily slide the washer in from the side.
It is possible that since my flywheel was not new that a new flywheel may be thick enough that the bolt would clamp down but it wasn’t going to work for me.
So I took a trip to Marshall’s Industrial Hardware here in SL. If you are in the SL area and have not ever been to Marshall’s Industrial Hardware you need to go, it will become one of your favorite places. I picked up 6 hardened 3/8 Flange bolts.
The bolt flange has more surface area than OEM so should clamp down great. There is no bolt shoulder but I like the idea of more bolt head surface area.
