Yeah the aluminum sheet fan mount, it just looks like a flimsy sheet of aluminum. Good to hear that you didn't think it was flimsy.
Jeep Nathan and Tanja's 99 XJ Build up
- Thread starter thenag
- Start date
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- Tags
- build thread
Yeah the aluminum sheet fan mount, it just looks like a flimsy sheet of aluminum. Good to hear that you didn't think it was flimsy.
I think that is the typical efan experience, buy it, have issues, sell it. I didn't realize that Novak made a setup. That guy upgraded one of the fans too.
I have spent more on stupider things... that is tempting
The Dirtbound has space for 10 inch fans. looks like the Novak is 9 inch.
Since we are talking about it, here is the dirtbound
Dirtbound XJ Shroud
Nathan
So a little bit of an update.
I do believe that I was running my engine much hotter than I should have been. With the OEM fan clutch when it was 90 degrees out it would typically run at about 225-230. (and the stupid dash gauge said 215!?)
I swapped in the HD ZJ Fan Clutch Napa part # 272310 and it ran much cooler. Installing that fan clutch with the big radiator required removing the upper radiator support to be able to move the radiator slightly to install the fan clutch. It is only about 1/4 inch closer to the radiator than the OEM fan clutch.
Since the air temperature has dropped I haven't really been able to see how hot it runs but it runs cooler with the HD fan clutch.
When it warms up I will experiment with different ignition timing to see if that effects the running tempurature. Since advancing the timing gave no power difference on the dyno (although the butt dyno feel was improved) if advancing the timing causes the thing to run hotter I will go back to OEM timing.
I did install a bleeder into the upper radiator hose. I had to tap threads into the big fitting and I have a little plug that threads into the valve. I understand that this bleeder is not in the most ideal position but with some rags I can flex the bleeder to nearly the highest point and crack the valve. It does spray all over the battery so again not ideal but it seemed to work well. I also have a spare upper hose and my new 2 gallon coolant container.
Nathan
I do believe that I was running my engine much hotter than I should have been. With the OEM fan clutch when it was 90 degrees out it would typically run at about 225-230. (and the stupid dash gauge said 215!?)
I swapped in the HD ZJ Fan Clutch Napa part # 272310 and it ran much cooler. Installing that fan clutch with the big radiator required removing the upper radiator support to be able to move the radiator slightly to install the fan clutch. It is only about 1/4 inch closer to the radiator than the OEM fan clutch.
Since the air temperature has dropped I haven't really been able to see how hot it runs but it runs cooler with the HD fan clutch.
When it warms up I will experiment with different ignition timing to see if that effects the running tempurature. Since advancing the timing gave no power difference on the dyno (although the butt dyno feel was improved) if advancing the timing causes the thing to run hotter I will go back to OEM timing.
I did install a bleeder into the upper radiator hose. I had to tap threads into the big fitting and I have a little plug that threads into the valve. I understand that this bleeder is not in the most ideal position but with some rags I can flex the bleeder to nearly the highest point and crack the valve. It does spray all over the battery so again not ideal but it seemed to work well. I also have a spare upper hose and my new 2 gallon coolant container.
Nathan
gatchmo5710
Active Member
Looks good! What did the napa charge for the better clutch? Might do mine soon. Also you could get a small threaded barb and run a bleeder line back to the coolant tank to help with the mess.
Put the part # 272310 into Napa's website, it says $42.99 website says they have one in stock at the main napa.
I don't anticipate using the coolant bleeder much, but yeah it would be easy to run a hose back the reservoir... Clear so I could see bubbles... you might be onto something...
I don't anticipate using the coolant bleeder much, but yeah it would be easy to run a hose back the reservoir... Clear so I could see bubbles... you might be onto something...
Before I do this I want to remind you that modifying parts to go onto an XJ usually requires some compromises, and lately I have been telling myself "well it doesn't hang down as much as it does on a JK"
In 2012 I saw a Teraflex Dual Rate swaybar mounted on an XJ, the owner of that XJ actually worked at Teraflex. That Jeep has been sold and I ran into it a few years ago, the current(?) owner is a great guy named Ben. In 2012 I snapped this picture of how the Teraflex guy mounted it. He welded it right to bulkhead, this is as up and back as it could possibly be mounted. (this might actually be where I got my obsession with putting paint marks on my critical bolts...)
I tried a few times after seeing this to get one from teraflex but it seemed like they were back ordered for years.
I finally got motivated to get one and had the large chunk of cash laying around to pick one up. I went over to their office and talked with a great sales guy Jim. We decided that dual rate bar for a TJ should work pretty well, except that the TJ bar goes through the round cross member on the frame of the jeep, and the XJ doesn't have anything like that. The swaybar for the JK has a pair of little brackets that are bolted to the frame for the swaybar to mount to. He said he could sell me a the brackets and bushings from a JK and they would fit the TJ bar just fine. Of course I would need to make the JK brackets somehow attach to my XJ. It is teraflex so I am not going to tell you how much I paid for the JK bushing and bracket kit, it obviously would be much more cost effective to track down a piece of round tube that is the proper ID for the bushing and build from there (like the picture above)
So with the OEM swaybar out of the way I go to test fitting. I have several bolts holding my RigidCo bumper and various frame plates on the front of the XJ. I finally settled on this position, it could be a couple inches further back, and an inch or two higher but it doesn't obscure access to any of my other mounting and I think it doesn't hang down as much as a JK.
Here is a shot of my bulkhead, hey I bet I can weld on a tab and use that 3/8 bolt right above the bracket!
So as I always do with nice new high quality parts, I start cutting! I was a little wide in this setup and had to cut about 1/4 inch off of the outside of each bracket.
Then time to cut off the smaller tab
Now I needed to add a tab for a second bolt
Time for a test fit
I added another tab, drilled some holes and sprayed some paint. After the paint was dry I could follow the installation directions.
Cold morning in the shop, "The heat is on..."
The bling-bling street/trail knob (next post...)
In 2012 I saw a Teraflex Dual Rate swaybar mounted on an XJ, the owner of that XJ actually worked at Teraflex. That Jeep has been sold and I ran into it a few years ago, the current(?) owner is a great guy named Ben. In 2012 I snapped this picture of how the Teraflex guy mounted it. He welded it right to bulkhead, this is as up and back as it could possibly be mounted. (this might actually be where I got my obsession with putting paint marks on my critical bolts...)
I tried a few times after seeing this to get one from teraflex but it seemed like they were back ordered for years.
I finally got motivated to get one and had the large chunk of cash laying around to pick one up. I went over to their office and talked with a great sales guy Jim. We decided that dual rate bar for a TJ should work pretty well, except that the TJ bar goes through the round cross member on the frame of the jeep, and the XJ doesn't have anything like that. The swaybar for the JK has a pair of little brackets that are bolted to the frame for the swaybar to mount to. He said he could sell me a the brackets and bushings from a JK and they would fit the TJ bar just fine. Of course I would need to make the JK brackets somehow attach to my XJ. It is teraflex so I am not going to tell you how much I paid for the JK bushing and bracket kit, it obviously would be much more cost effective to track down a piece of round tube that is the proper ID for the bushing and build from there (like the picture above)
So with the OEM swaybar out of the way I go to test fitting. I have several bolts holding my RigidCo bumper and various frame plates on the front of the XJ. I finally settled on this position, it could be a couple inches further back, and an inch or two higher but it doesn't obscure access to any of my other mounting and I think it doesn't hang down as much as a JK.
Here is a shot of my bulkhead, hey I bet I can weld on a tab and use that 3/8 bolt right above the bracket!
So as I always do with nice new high quality parts, I start cutting! I was a little wide in this setup and had to cut about 1/4 inch off of the outside of each bracket.
Then time to cut off the smaller tab
Now I needed to add a tab for a second bolt
Time for a test fit
I added another tab, drilled some holes and sprayed some paint. After the paint was dry I could follow the installation directions.
Cold morning in the shop, "The heat is on..."
The bling-bling street/trail knob (next post...)
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So the Bling-Bling street trail knob!
And more cutting, (and taping) The end links would probably be fine but I wanted them a touch shorter so I cut 3/4 inch off and ran a tap down the end. (double check to cut the right hand threaded side since I don't have a LH thread tap...)
All installed
Tires on, winch wires re-routed.
I have it on the second stiffest setting and it is really firm on road. I should have pursued this more, years ago. It is a really expensive upgrade but in the short time I have driven it it works really well on road.
Mostly I did this upgrade so that I don't have to mess around with sway bar disconnects, I am looking forward to just twisting a knob while airing down/up.
Nathan
And more cutting, (and taping) The end links would probably be fine but I wanted them a touch shorter so I cut 3/4 inch off and ran a tap down the end. (double check to cut the right hand threaded side since I don't have a LH thread tap...)
All installed
Tires on, winch wires re-routed.
I have it on the second stiffest setting and it is really firm on road. I should have pursued this more, years ago. It is a really expensive upgrade but in the short time I have driven it it works really well on road.
Mostly I did this upgrade so that I don't have to mess around with sway bar disconnects, I am looking forward to just twisting a knob while airing down/up.
Nathan
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- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
Great upgrade, Nathan! I put the TeraFlex Dual Rate on my TJ that was running full hydro, 40's and soft suspension and it was a massive upgrade for on the road driving. The lighter rate bar was nice for reducing the rocking offroad.
I finally got around to ordering a 63mm Throttle body from Leigh Performance Machine.
I still think that my exhaust is choke point on the engine but it seems like it accelerates a bit smoother, and in 4th gear on long hills with WOT it pulls a bit better.
Pictures not really needed, you can see the carbon build up on one, that is what he machines off.
Nathan
I still think that my exhaust is choke point on the engine but it seems like it accelerates a bit smoother, and in 4th gear on long hills with WOT it pulls a bit better.
Pictures not really needed, you can see the carbon build up on one, that is what he machines off.
Nathan
My 14 bolt Ruff Stuff cover did not have enough clearance around some of the bolts to fit a 9/16 socket. Rather than laying under the jeep with my die grinder to make the clearance I went to Marshall's Hardware.
I found these little guys, Lo Socket Head Bolt
I think the allen bolt will be a bit more protected than a regular button head bolt. There is also a bit more material than a button head so if it does get buggered up I have a decent chance of cutting a slit into it and backing it out like a flat head screw.
I found these little guys, Lo Socket Head Bolt
I think the allen bolt will be a bit more protected than a regular button head bolt. There is also a bit more material than a button head so if it does get buggered up I have a decent chance of cutting a slit into it and backing it out like a flat head screw.
Wow no updates in over a year. I did have a ridiculous bathroom renovation that took way longer than expected, but if you ever have the chance to put heated tile floor in your bathroom, DO IT! (for us it added about $800 in materials, worth every penny)
Anyway if you have been following this thread you know that I have had cooling issues ever since I put the stroker in.
I was getting frustrated, I actually pulled the hood off and drove around last fall with no hood, the engine still ran warmer than it should. I was a weekend away from pulling the motor and checking everything internally (or throwing a stock motor in) I have tried everything with the cooling system...
except...
I saw my OEM style Autozone radiator on the shelf...
I installed the OEM Autozone radiator in place of my high bling Misshimoto Radiator...
The engine cooled as you would expect!
I contacted Mishimotto and they sent me a new radiator under warranty!
The new Mishimotto Radiator keeps it cool. Last weekend it was about 80 outside driving the jeep around the engine never got over 210! (with the a/c running, but that runs the aux fan so it is kind of wash)
So really I have had cooling issues since installing the Mishimotto radiator, it was somehow partially clogged causing low flow and high pressure, this is obviously why I had issues with cooling hoses popping off, poor flow. I don't know what was clogged, I still have the bad one I told to destroy it, so I may cut into it to see if there is something obvious.
So problem seems to be solved, I don't want to think about all the money I spent trying to solve this problem, including a bent intake valve.
So on to my next stupid (me) problem.
For the last while the jeep didn't feel comfortable at speed, it was a newish thing, this was part of the reason I got the dual rate swaybar. (the main reason was so I didn't have to deal with disconnects anymore...)
Well the jeep death wobbled really bad and I got to looking at it.
Checked the castor, it was right on at 7 degrees... wait no that is NEGATIVE 7 degrees.
Yup I am an idiot I have been running at -7 for years (probably a few thousand miles)
I am actually surprised how well it drove with negative castor.
I am sure if I went back through this thread I could find the last time I had the front axle off and set it at 7 not realizing that I was at -7.
So it feels a lot better at speed but it did another DW.
My track bar is Johnny Joints on both ends, I will inspect them, but I think that it is possible that my GM TRE's are worn out because I have been driving with negative castor.
Time for some Heim joint steering rods.
Nathan
*edit*
This picture is dated 10/29/2016, so likely 3+ years of negative castor
Anyway if you have been following this thread you know that I have had cooling issues ever since I put the stroker in.
I was getting frustrated, I actually pulled the hood off and drove around last fall with no hood, the engine still ran warmer than it should. I was a weekend away from pulling the motor and checking everything internally (or throwing a stock motor in) I have tried everything with the cooling system...
except...
I saw my OEM style Autozone radiator on the shelf...
I installed the OEM Autozone radiator in place of my high bling Misshimoto Radiator...
The engine cooled as you would expect!
I contacted Mishimotto and they sent me a new radiator under warranty!
The new Mishimotto Radiator keeps it cool. Last weekend it was about 80 outside driving the jeep around the engine never got over 210! (with the a/c running, but that runs the aux fan so it is kind of wash)
So really I have had cooling issues since installing the Mishimotto radiator, it was somehow partially clogged causing low flow and high pressure, this is obviously why I had issues with cooling hoses popping off, poor flow. I don't know what was clogged, I still have the bad one I told to destroy it, so I may cut into it to see if there is something obvious.
So problem seems to be solved, I don't want to think about all the money I spent trying to solve this problem, including a bent intake valve.
So on to my next stupid (me) problem.
For the last while the jeep didn't feel comfortable at speed, it was a newish thing, this was part of the reason I got the dual rate swaybar. (the main reason was so I didn't have to deal with disconnects anymore...)
Well the jeep death wobbled really bad and I got to looking at it.
Checked the castor, it was right on at 7 degrees... wait no that is NEGATIVE 7 degrees.
Yup I am an idiot I have been running at -7 for years (probably a few thousand miles)
I am actually surprised how well it drove with negative castor.
I am sure if I went back through this thread I could find the last time I had the front axle off and set it at 7 not realizing that I was at -7.
So it feels a lot better at speed but it did another DW.
My track bar is Johnny Joints on both ends, I will inspect them, but I think that it is possible that my GM TRE's are worn out because I have been driving with negative castor.
Time for some Heim joint steering rods.
Nathan
*edit*
This picture is dated 10/29/2016, so likely 3+ years of negative castor
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Well since the two death wobbles I decided to go Heim Joint steering links.
The Tie rod was relatively easy. The knuckles were drilled out to 7/8 with TRE taperes in them. So just pop out the Tie Rod tapered inserts and run some 7/8 Heims.
Parts
Weld tube inserts
Paint and install some beef
The pitman arm and hi-steer arm both had holes that were almost 7/8 on the large side of the taper. Since misalignment spacers are required for a drag link I need a 3/4 hole on each. I could have ordered a new pitman arm a drilled it to 3/4. The hi-steer arm is one of a kind. It is 1 inch thick and the tapered hole was angled a bit. I don't have a good way to cut 1 inch. The last time I had one made some guy on here cut it with a torch. It doesn't need to be real exact. The holes have to be exact and a set of transfer punches did the trick last time.
I lean suggested enlarging the hole to 1 inch and then welding a piece of DOM into the hole that has a 3/4 inch ID.
So the pitman arm was relatively easy, get a 1 inch bit, drill hole, weld DOM.
The hi-steer arm was clamped to a drill press and my tie rod reamer was ran into the hole straightening the hole out as it destroyed my reamer. It did the job, I was able to run a 1 inch bit through it fairly straight.
I also ran a HF step bit into both to give a groove to weld into.
All clamped down to my flat table ready for welding
The Tie rod was relatively easy. The knuckles were drilled out to 7/8 with TRE taperes in them. So just pop out the Tie Rod tapered inserts and run some 7/8 Heims.
Parts
Weld tube inserts
Paint and install some beef
The pitman arm and hi-steer arm both had holes that were almost 7/8 on the large side of the taper. Since misalignment spacers are required for a drag link I need a 3/4 hole on each. I could have ordered a new pitman arm a drilled it to 3/4. The hi-steer arm is one of a kind. It is 1 inch thick and the tapered hole was angled a bit. I don't have a good way to cut 1 inch. The last time I had one made some guy on here cut it with a torch. It doesn't need to be real exact. The holes have to be exact and a set of transfer punches did the trick last time.
I lean suggested enlarging the hole to 1 inch and then welding a piece of DOM into the hole that has a 3/4 inch ID.
So the pitman arm was relatively easy, get a 1 inch bit, drill hole, weld DOM.
The hi-steer arm was clamped to a drill press and my tie rod reamer was ran into the hole straightening the hole out as it destroyed my reamer. It did the job, I was able to run a 1 inch bit through it fairly straight.
I also ran a HF step bit into both to give a groove to weld into.
All clamped down to my flat table ready for welding
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Ta-da 3/4 holes
I am going to have to move my tie rod from over the knuckle to under the knuckle. This is going to require modifying the ram mount on the tie rod. This also gave me a chance to make my mount 2 pieces instead of one. With one piece I had to remove a tie rod end to remove the mount and it could be annoying.
(I did re-weld the nuts so they are all the same way, so all the bolts are facing the front. I am not sure why I thought that was a good idea...)
Final Test Fit
I am waiting for the Heims etc to do the drag link. I also have new ball joints coming. I am going to re-do my axle side sway bar end mounts while I have it all apart. (in the last pic you can see the sway bar end hanging)
I also got a new Jack.
Mostly waiting parts now...
I am going to have to move my tie rod from over the knuckle to under the knuckle. This is going to require modifying the ram mount on the tie rod. This also gave me a chance to make my mount 2 pieces instead of one. With one piece I had to remove a tie rod end to remove the mount and it could be annoying.
(I did re-weld the nuts so they are all the same way, so all the bolts are facing the front. I am not sure why I thought that was a good idea...)
Final Test Fit
I am waiting for the Heims etc to do the drag link. I also have new ball joints coming. I am going to re-do my axle side sway bar end mounts while I have it all apart. (in the last pic you can see the sway bar end hanging)
I also got a new Jack.
Mostly waiting parts now...
Well I spent all that time and effort straightening out the hole in the hi-steer arm.
Yeah that hole needs to be angled...
So I got busy with the plasma cutter
After a bunch of welding and grinding... (I did take the knuckle off the jeep to work on it on the bench)
Alright time to cycle the suspension and see what hits...
Well damn hydro ram hits drag link, looks like I am loosing hydro assist for a while...
I had to raise up my sway bar end links a bit more, good thing I only tack welded them. sway bar end doesn't hit unibody at full comp, so at least that is something.
Look ma no hydro-assist
Time for a test drive!
Death wobble at 45 mph
DOH!
Well I don't think I have ever rebuilt my axle side track bar johnny joint, so I ordered new johnny joint bushings for the track bar.
Still DW at fairly low speed.
So I got my helper to turn the steering while I watched.
My drop down track bar bracket was moving on the unibody, a couple of the bolts were loose and if I tightened those up it might have taken care of it, but I have always wanted to build a little cross member on the bracket to tie the track bar bracket to the other "frame" rail.
I did have one of those complete mental 180's. I was so dejected and defeated that the frame was wiggling, and very quickly was very happy that I had found a clear reason it was death wobbling.
The extreme drop down track bar bracket is one of the things that a lot of people don't like, it just puts too big of a lever on the unibody. I didn't think it would be a problem since I was going to build a support for it, should have built it years ago...
Yeah that hole needs to be angled...
So I got busy with the plasma cutter
After a bunch of welding and grinding... (I did take the knuckle off the jeep to work on it on the bench)
Alright time to cycle the suspension and see what hits...
Well damn hydro ram hits drag link, looks like I am loosing hydro assist for a while...
I had to raise up my sway bar end links a bit more, good thing I only tack welded them. sway bar end doesn't hit unibody at full comp, so at least that is something.
Look ma no hydro-assist
Time for a test drive!
Death wobble at 45 mph
DOH!
Well I don't think I have ever rebuilt my axle side track bar johnny joint, so I ordered new johnny joint bushings for the track bar.
Still DW at fairly low speed.
So I got my helper to turn the steering while I watched.
My drop down track bar bracket was moving on the unibody, a couple of the bolts were loose and if I tightened those up it might have taken care of it, but I have always wanted to build a little cross member on the bracket to tie the track bar bracket to the other "frame" rail.
I did have one of those complete mental 180's. I was so dejected and defeated that the frame was wiggling, and very quickly was very happy that I had found a clear reason it was death wobbling.
The extreme drop down track bar bracket is one of the things that a lot of people don't like, it just puts too big of a lever on the unibody. I didn't think it would be a problem since I was going to build a support for it, should have built it years ago...
Alright lets play fabricator!
Here is a shot of the drop down trackbar mount, it is long! That "C" has to be filled in since I am going to put a 3/4 inch hole in that area.
Well lets do what everyone needs to do with their XJ, add some more plate to the frame!
I got out the cardboard and plasma cutter and made three small plates. The lower plate is welded to my outer steeringbox/bumper plate that is welded in. I also put the bolts in the factory sway bar holes to help hold it all together. You can also see that I filled the "C" I clamped a piece of aluminum behind it and filled it. ideally I would have filled from the back too but there is no way I was getting a grinder back there to clean it up before drilling.
The third little plate is more of a gusset that goes from the inner edge of the track bar bracket to bottom of the motor mount. This should help tie it all together. It is hard to see behind the wire/air line, but you can see the booger weld drip.
Since I have some 3/4 bolts around and 1 inch tubing that has an ID of 3/4 i drilled a 3/4 hole in the track bar mount just above the johnny joint.
That's where I stopped for today.
Here is a shot of the drop down trackbar mount, it is long! That "C" has to be filled in since I am going to put a 3/4 inch hole in that area.
Well lets do what everyone needs to do with their XJ, add some more plate to the frame!
I got out the cardboard and plasma cutter and made three small plates. The lower plate is welded to my outer steeringbox/bumper plate that is welded in. I also put the bolts in the factory sway bar holes to help hold it all together. You can also see that I filled the "C" I clamped a piece of aluminum behind it and filled it. ideally I would have filled from the back too but there is no way I was getting a grinder back there to clean it up before drilling.
The third little plate is more of a gusset that goes from the inner edge of the track bar bracket to bottom of the motor mount. This should help tie it all together. It is hard to see behind the wire/air line, but you can see the booger weld drip.
Since I have some 3/4 bolts around and 1 inch tubing that has an ID of 3/4 i drilled a 3/4 hole in the track bar mount just above the johnny joint.
That's where I stopped for today.
More track bar bracket support work.
So the passenger side "frame" rail has some bolt holes that seem to be for the track bar bracket on right hand drive models. So I made a plate to bolt through those holes. It will be welded to the "frame" as well. This is one of those really annoying brackets that a picture makes it look so simple but it took hours. (and yes I was lazy and drilled holes with the plasma cutter...)
I had this OEM TJ front track bar from my father in law. I am assuming that I can effectively weld 1 inch solid stock so lets get cutting.
This is what I ended up with. 3/4 inch bolt will go through the 1 inch tube, that is the driver side.
Something like this; (zip tie is temporary obviously)
I stopped for the day at this point.
The next things I do, need to line up and stay lined up.
I am going to get it sitting on its springs before I weld it up, just in case there is any small "frame" flex.
So the passenger side "frame" rail has some bolt holes that seem to be for the track bar bracket on right hand drive models. So I made a plate to bolt through those holes. It will be welded to the "frame" as well. This is one of those really annoying brackets that a picture makes it look so simple but it took hours. (and yes I was lazy and drilled holes with the plasma cutter...)
I had this OEM TJ front track bar from my father in law. I am assuming that I can effectively weld 1 inch solid stock so lets get cutting.
This is what I ended up with. 3/4 inch bolt will go through the 1 inch tube, that is the driver side.
Something like this; (zip tie is temporary obviously)
I stopped for the day at this point.
The next things I do, need to line up and stay lined up.
I am going to get it sitting on its springs before I weld it up, just in case there is any small "frame" flex.