• RME Gear & Apparel

Need help/tips. Jeep engine guru's???

Brett

Brett

Meat-Hippy
Location
Salt Lake City Utah
I am going to try, for the forth time, to reseal my main seal on the 4.0. I've not had any luck on this and I don't know what the problem is. I've been told not to use RTV on the gasket for the pan, since that seems to leak. Parts store lady recommended just using Copper spray just to hold it in place andd then it should seal on it's own. I'm using a one piece rubber set on this as well.

As for the main seal itself, any tips? I'm using a Fel Pro double lip seal instead of the factory seal this time, so maybe that'll help. I'm tired of this.....I just want it done!

Pointers, tips, insights? Anything!

As always, 89 XJ with awesomely powerful 4.0 inline 6 :cody:

PS: buy you some beer if you make it stop leaking!:greg:
 
wally

wally

Registered User
Location
Watauga, Texas (wish I was back in Utah)
Not much help but make sure you clean everything real good. When I did mine I took one day to tear it apart and clean some. The next day I cleaned it all again just to make sure. Looked at everything and then put it all back together. This was on a 92xj and it was the 2 piece seal. Has not leaked since then.
 
Brett

Brett

Meat-Hippy
Location
Salt Lake City Utah
wally said:
Not much help but make sure you clean everything real good. When I did mine I took one day to tear it apart and clean some. The next day I cleaned it all again just to make sure. Looked at everything and then put it all back together. This was on a 92xj and it was the 2 piece seal. Has not leaked since then.
Click to expand...

Do you remember what you used on it? Any sealer(RTV, gasket maker, etc) or just straight together without anything?
 
Herzog

Herzog

somewhat damaged
Admin
Location
Wydaho
I think you just have bad luck. I remember using RTV, but only on one side of the seal. I also used a 2 piece pan gasket. Haven't had a leak now for about 5 years.

Good luck, again!
 
Brett

Brett

Meat-Hippy
Location
Salt Lake City Utah
Herzog said:
I think you just have bad luck. I remember using RTV, but only on one side of the seal. I also used a 2 piece pan gasket. Haven't had a leak now for about 5 years.

Good luck, again!
Click to expand...

I've honestly wondered if the crank is grooved where the seal contacts with it.....or if I didn't get the pan to seal properly on the bearing cap.

I'll just go emo if it leaks again after this.
 
1993yj

1993yj

.
Location
Salt Lake
I am going to try doing mine again for the second time here shortly. I don't have any pointers, but after you successfully complete it let me know what the trick was.
 
gripguru

gripguru

Nate Davidson
Location
Meridian ID
That is exactly how you should do it, but I had better luck pulling the motor, flipping it upside down, taking all of the main bearing journals off, laying the rearmain seal in there gently and torquing the crank bearing journals back down. IT STILL LEAKS A LITTLE BIT. :f-in sweet:

Anyways, that trick right there is the way that you should do it, but dont get too aggro when it does not work.
 
7

78mitsu

Registered User
clean everything really well with acetone before you assemble, I use RTV, I don't remember is it a 1 piece or 2 piece rear main seal. if it's a two piece rear main, offset the seal 15* so the ends of the seals don't end up at the same place. if it's a one piece rear main, try a shallow set, that is not setting the seal all the way in (by like 1/16th it'll give it fresh meat to wear on.

and don't over-tighten the pan bolts, put lock-tite on them and tighten them to 90% of factory spec.
 
Brett

Brett

Meat-Hippy
Location
Salt Lake City Utah
78mitsu said:
clean everything really well with acetone before you assemble, I use RTV, I don't remember is it a 1 piece or 2 piece rear main seal. if it's a two piece rear main, offset the seal 15* so the ends of the seals don't end up at the same place. if it's a one piece rear main, try a shallow set, that is not setting the seal all the way in (by like 1/16th it'll give it fresh meat to wear on.

and don't over-tighten the pan bolts, put lock-tite on them and tighten them to 90% of factory spec.
Click to expand...

I'll spray as much oil off with brake cleaner, then I'll wipe the block and pan down with acetone. As for the seal, it's a two piece, but you have to have it in the same position as from the factory. I'll try the locktite and 90% tightness too :)
 
DOSS

DOSS

Poker of the Hornets Nest
Location
Suncrest
I will have to do mine again soon as well... did it last fall.. doing it again this fall... arrrg if you find a good trick to get these things to not leak that would be nice :)
 
Brett

Brett

Meat-Hippy
Location
Salt Lake City Utah
Herzog said:
Looks right to me.

When I first did mine, I was putting the upper seal back into the block and it splintered while going in. I knew it wasn't worth the chance so I went and got a new one to put in there. It's so easy to splinter those seals, so be careful about that too.
Click to expand...

Splintered? What do you mean by this senor?
 
DaveB

DaveB

Long Jeep Fan
Location
Holladay, Utah
Check you ccv if it isn't relieving the internal pressure from blow by you will get oil leaks. My son's 4.0 was leaking bad and I replaced the ccv with a pcv and cleared up the oil leaks.
 
Brett

Brett

Meat-Hippy
Location
Salt Lake City Utah
DaveB said:
Check you ccv if it isn't relieving the internal pressure from blow by you will get oil leaks. My son's 4.0 was leaking bad and I replaced the ccv with a pcv and cleared up the oil leaks.
Click to expand...

Yep, I actually changed that over to the PCV system a couple days after I picked up that seatbelt from you. Even added the larger 3/8's line, too. Didn't help unfortunately :(
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top