Need some help.

diablokicks

Registered User
Location
Layton
I recently bought a jeep with the 44 rear axle, and the owner who i bought it from says that it has a locker in it, but im unsure of the locker, is there anyway i could find that out? Also he said it was geared lower, but i dont know what gear ratio it is at is there any way i could figure that out as well? And also, it has a 3 inch suspention lift, and i was consitering putting a 2 inch body is that a good idea or not, would that make it too top heavy? is 2 too much? should i go with a 1 inch?
Thanks for all the help,
Patrick
 

Tacoma

Et incurventur ante non
Location
far enough away
locker: get in the dirt or some gravel, have a helper tell you if both wheels are spinning or not. Mud/snow makes this a lot easier. Or jack it up and spin a wheel... if both of them spin the same way, you're golden. Have someone hold the other tire a little...

check ratio: mark the driveshaft and the tire, turn the driveshaft ONCE and count how many revolutions the tire makes. OR, pull the diff cover and look for the markings on the gear and report back to RME.. you can check for a locker then too... and change your gear oil to synthetic, all in one swoop!

Body lift: I hate them unless they are absolutely necessary for clearance. Cut fenders if you can. They add more leverage on a lot of stuff, move your CG up, and I just hate them, period.:mad2: :ugh: :D
 

gijohn40

too poor to wheel... :(
Location
Layton, Utah
tie a string to your driveshaft and then rotate your tire one turn and see home many times the string wraps around the drive shaft... if its 4 and a half times your looking at a 4.56 to 1 gear... if only 3 and a half its 3.55 to 1...and so on.....

And for the locker... like was said above get in some dirt and spin the tires and see if both spin... depending on the locker you can also turn a very tight corner and listen to see if one of the wheels chirps.... you have to be into the gas pedal to see this....

and the idea of taking the dif cover off and checking is always the best! and change the oil at the same time!
 

diablokicks

Registered User
Location
Layton
Thanks guys for the tips. So why do you not like the body lift? I heard it makes the vehicle more top heavy, i also heard 2 inchs is the max i should go. Whats the reasoning
 

1993yj

.
Location
Salt Lake
With a body lift, you have to use longer bolts that attatch the body to the frame. There are stories out there of people who have had those bolts bend and had the body shift on the frame because they are so long. Like I said, they are stories, so who knows, theoretically...

Personally I just think that they are ugly and would never do one for that reason alone. And usually the cheapest way is not the best for anything, especially a lift.
 

Brad J

Registered User
Location
Woods Cross, UT
I put a 2" BL on my Scout to be able to fit 33's and have been very happy w/ it but the cons are
1. steering shaft angle
2. radiator and hoses, fan shroud
3. clutch and throttle linkages
4. longer brake lines sometimes needed

The nice thing is that I have a lot more room underneath for things like dual exhaust...
 
Last edited:

Caleb

Well-Known Member
Location
Riverton
Brad J said:
I put a 2" BL on my Scout to be able to fit 33's and have been very happy w/ it but the cons are
1. steering shaft angle
2. radiator and hoses, fan shroud
3. clutch and throttle linkages
4. longer brake lines sometimes needed

The nice thing is that I have a lot more room underneath for things like dual exhaust...
Not to mention body lifts look pretty gay too :p (1" max, IMO, for clearance issues, if you need more then start re-arranging sheet metal ;) )

I've seen body mounts (many times, even on newer vehicles) collapse with body lifts on, the only time I'd even seen a body mount collapse on a vehcile without a body lift is if it's old and rusting away. I can't 100% for sure say the body lift is the result of the failure but it's always been a common factor between them.
 

waynehartwig

www.jeeperman.com
Location
Mead, WA
Supergper said:
Not to mention body lifts look pretty gay too :p (1" max, IMO, for clearance issues, if you need more then start re-arranging sheet metal ;) )

I've seen body mounts (many times, even on newer vehicles) collapse with body lifts on, the only time I'd even seen a body mount collapse on a vehcile without a body lift is if it's old and rusting away. I can't 100% for sure say the body lift is the result of the failure but it's always been a common factor between them.
I've seen them shear (the bolt), too... I've also seen people use solid spacers and then get into a flexy position, like The Crack, and shatter windshields.

IMO if you are talking about a body lift, move the mounts - don't add spacers. If you still must put a body lift on, don't use solid (steel, etc) spacers.
 
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