Opinions on a Dana 50 TTB?

[Crankylove]

I have an '86 F-250, Extra Cab, 4x4, (155" wheelbase ) It has the stock 460, T-19 w/synchro first, 4.10's in the diffs (front and rear are open), and 315/85/16 BFG Mud Terrains. My questions is in regards to the front Dana 50 TTB axle strength. I have heard from some that it compares in strength to the Dana 44 found in older 3/4 Chevy and Ford trucks (same basic bearing and driver side shaft sizes, beefier passenger shaft), and have had others tell me its no good except as a boat anchor (mostly cause its TTB I think) This truck is my daily driver/wheelin machine/campin/hunting rig, and is pretty much stock except for the tires (no lift, cut fenders with flares), and dosen't really see the hard core wheelin other vehicles do, mostly just dirt and gravel roads, some snow and mud, and a little sand. The driveline seems fairly stout ( blew all 3 u-joints in the rear drive line last week, but the t-case, tranny, and rear axle took it okay) but I am wondering if I should expect any problems with the front axle and the 35" tires with light to moderate wheeling. I would love to swap a solid axle up front, but don't really need one for the type of wheeling I do, and am just wondering if axle problems are something I should be concerned about.

 

[ChestonScout]

Anything has a possibilty of breaking of course. With what you have described I wouldnt bother changing out the front. I think it will do you fine.

Just remember that it is what it is. You start wheeling hard it might break.

Of course if it does explode......there is your reason to swap it out with a 60!

 

[notajeep]

Or buy a boat!

 

[Crankylove]

I would love a SAS, preferably a Pro Rock 60, and some disc brakes in the rear with an ARB to go with them, but, financialy, its not really in the picture, and as posted above, the type of wheeling I do dosent really justify it at this point. I do have access to a HD44 from a 76' Ford 3/4, (even has 4.10's), but it is a low pinion (at least the Dana 50 i have now is a high pinion), and if the strength between the two is about the same, its not really worth the effort to me. Looks like my biggest problem right now is playing nice with the U-joints

 

[Milner]

I would love a SAS, preferably a Pro Rock 60, and some disc brakes in the rear with an ARB to go with them, but, financialy, its not really in the picture, and as posted above, the type of wheeling I do dosent really justify it at this point. I do have access to a HD44 from a 76' Ford 3/4, (even has 4.10's), but it is a low pinion (at least the Dana 50 i have now is a high pinion), and if the strength between the two is about the same, its not really worth the effort to me. Looks like my biggest problem right now is playing nice with the U-joints

Strength is really the same as a 3/4 ton 44, as you have said. Axle ujoints are actually bigger than some 44's. The worst part strength wise is that it has a 3rd ujoint (2 in the long side). That being said, that joint does not fail often.
The biggest complaint I had with the 50ttb was alignment with a lift. I ate pivot bushings and the drop brackets would not stay tight.

The twin I beam design (2wd) is still the standard for many racers and a lot of clas 7/7s racers run ttb's.

replace the joints with some of the aftermarket upgrades, replace the bushings and balljoints and you should be good for quite a while.

BTW if you want an ARB for it, I'll make you a killer deal!! Still in the drop-in with 4:10's. Just bolt it in!!

 

[Crankylove]

Milner: Is your killer deal for an ARB for the Dana 50, or the rear Ford 10.25"?

 

[mbryson]

Milner: Is your killer deal for an ARB for the Dana 50, or the rear Ford 10.25"?

I think he's got one of each. I've been considering that for my Stuper Duty, but am not sure if I'd ever use them at all. I'm having a hard time justifying mud terrains again for how little it's "wheeled" in the last couple years.

 

[Tacoma]

StupidDuty + mud = embarrassing tow out by Blazer driver.


DON"T DO IT MARC!!!!

 

[BCGPER]

:d

stupidduty + mud = embarrassing tailgate dentage by blazer driver. :d


don"t do it marc!!!!

 

[Tacoma]

That was a Ram, and damnit it was snow not mud!!!!

 

[mbryson]

..... I'm having a hard time justifying mud terrains again for how little it's "wheeled" in the last couple years.

StupidDuty + mud = embarrassing tow out by Blazer driver.


DON"T DO IT MARC!!!!

Not that I clearly mentioned, but hopefully the highlighted section above would indicate that I don't wheel my StupidDuty enough to justify mud tires, let alone adding lockers to it.

It doesn't matter what you drive, you'll need a tug from someone, sometime. It might even require one from a 'zuk or similar, but you'll still need a tug.

 

[ChestonScout]

Not me.





I never make it to the trail before something is wrong

 

[Tacoma]

I got a tow out of a stuck in the XJ from an ATV.

 

[Crankylove]

I think he's got one of each. I've been considering that for my Stuper Duty, but am not sure if I'd ever use them at all.

Thats my problem right now. I take it off road quite a bit, and would love to throw a rear selectable locker in, but if I am honest with my self, I don't really "need" one, although for the right price..............

My truck gets me where I want to go so far, but it is just a little big in the size department, and aside from mud/snow, I couldn't physically fit the land yacht into a lot of the places I would need a locker in the areas I cruise around in off road ( I guess if I stopped caring about the body I could go a few more places )

 

[mbryson]

Thats my problem right now. I take it off road quite a bit, and would love to throw a rear selectable locker in, but if I am honest with my self, I don't really "need" one, although for the right price..............

My truck gets me where I want to go so far, but it is just a little big in the size department, and aside from mud/snow, I couldn't physically fit the land yacht into a lot of the places I would need a locker in the areas I cruise around in off road ( I guess if I stopped caring about the body I could go a few more places )

I use my pile as a daily driver (not exactly ideal), a family truckster (surprisingly adequate for that and it gets similar mileage to our SUV), and a tow rig. For my use, it doesn't make sense to install a locker. If I used it at all on trails, it'd be worth a shot, IMHO.

For what Milner wants for the ARBs, I'd do it PDQ if I used my truck similar to you. He's got your same style of truck, just 10 years newer and could probably hook you up for an install or whatever for a deal?

 

[Milner]

I do have both, 50 will BOLT right in, with 4:10s ready to go. The 10.25 needs a little work

Here are the adds http://www.rockymountainextreme.com/showthread.php?t=58958

http://www.rockymountainextreme.com/showthread.php?t=58960

 

[Crankylove]

I appreciate the info on the ARB's, but, I just found out for sure, that my other vehicle needs new heads before it will pass inspections in march. $1,200-1,400 with the family discount, or about $400 if I do them my self
So unfortunately, all my extra money (is there such a thing?) will have to go into that turd for the time being since I can't sell it, and am stuck fixing the car the ex wanted, but i got stuck with, and can't sell for another year. Anybody have tips on replacing the heads on a 2001 Ford Taurus? So many damn hoses, wires, sensors..........

 

[Rot Box]

I'm thinking the D50 was an option in your truck as most were the D44 TTB those years... but I'm no expert

I swapped out the D44 TTB out from under my reg cab 86 F250 with a 6.9 Diesel, and it was well worth the effort. I used a Hi pinion D44 out of a 79 F250, and it already had my 3.55's and nuckles drilled for the x-over steering so it basically swapped right in. The 77 and older Ford axles had the big hubs, but low pinion, and the one I used has the small hubs and Hi pinion so either one was an upgrade from my existing axle.

That being said I don't believe that I would have done it if I had the D50 in the first place. With the weight of the engine, and being an extra cab I think that there would be a lot of stress on the D44's smaller ball joints and axle tubes compared to the D50 TTB's... Just a thought.

If your not having problems now then don't worry about it. If it comes down to needing new rod ends, ball joints, U-joints and bearings all at once (with my luck they seem to all go out at the same time ) then spend that money on a D60

 

[Crankylove]

I'm thinking the D50 was an option in your truck as most were the D44 TTB those years... but I'm no expert



If your not having problems now then don't worry about it. If it comes down to needing new rod ends, ball joints, U-joints and bearings all at once (with my luck they seem to all go out at the same time ) then spend that money on a D60

I know Ford offered both, but after checking the hub size, and door plate codes, it is a Dana 50. Previous owner is also my brothers, brother in-law, and runs an auto shop with his father, and rebuilt both axles a couple years ago.

It is working fine right now, and like stated above, I am not gonna really worry untill I start breaking/wearing out parts on a regular basis. If if does go to crap on me, I do have a low pinion 44 (76')out of one of my brothers parts trucks for his highboy. I just don't want to start chopping crossmembers and swap from an axle that I know works for me now, to one that may or may not be in good shape, especially if they are about equal in terms of strength. Although if it was a 60 that my brother had...........

 

[Rot Box]

I do have a low pinion 44 (76')out of one of my brothers parts trucks for his highboy. I just don't want to start chopping crossmembers and swap from an axle that I know works for me now, to one that may or may not be in good shape, especially if they are about equal in terms of strength.

When I did mine I remember thinking that the Low pinion axle wouldn't work without cutting heavily into the crossmember because the diff is closer to center. With the later one i used I did not have to modify the crossmember in any way because it's diff was in the same spot as the TTB's.

If you do swap to the D44 I'd really try to find the 78-79 HP version for ease of installation, and they can be had for less than $150. That being said I don't believe any of these D44's would be stronger overall, but they are sooo much simpler

To make it work I had to move the spring pads outwards a little, locate 1/2 inch lugnuts (couldn't use the longer ones anymore ) Tapped the flat top knuckle for a steering arm, and located different u-bolts for the u-joints--that's about it.