Pinion angle and Sleeving axle tube.

[RUYellow]

I think that I will need to rotate my front pinion up to keep from having vibes.

I want to have it be able to get a correct alignment, not just kind of close. I know the specs are a rough guideline when dealing with a lifted rig.

In a perfect world I would want my front pinion pointed straight to my TC correct?

Drive line angle

If so that is about 10 degrees.

My castor at that point is about 4 degrees negative. I was told 4 degrees Positive would be OK and that 6 to 7.5 was stock.

I have an HP30 from an XJ, the OD is 2.5" I want to cut the tubes in the center of each side and slip it into some 3" 1/4 wall. I am cutting all of the brackets off anyways, so no big deal there. I am just wondering why everyone that sleeves their axle does so on the inside?

Yes, it is a Dana 30(Super 30 kit), and yes I am keeping it, along with my 44a in the rear, when they die, and I have more funds, I will do 9" and 60 outers, but not until then.

 

[Tacoma]

yeah, you want it pointing at the case IF you're running a CV joint up front. Otherwise, you want it parallel.

 

[RUYellow]

It has the Double Cardan Joint at the TC, and a single UJoint at the Pinion.

 

[bobdog]

Cut the inner Cs free and rotate them. Dont sleeve the tubes.

 

[RUYellow]

Cut the inner Cs free and rotate them. Dont sleeve the tubes.

Cut off the inner Cs and cut the tube on another axle, clean out the left over tubing in the new Cs and weld them onto the original tubes at the correct angle. I think that this is what you mean, if not please elaborate.

That is much more work than what I have planned, I am currious as to why not to sleeve the tubes.

 

[N-Smooth]

Cut off the inner Cs and cut the tube on another axle, clean out the left over tubing in the new Cs and weld them onto the original tubes at the correct angle. I think that this is what you mean, if not please elaborate.

That is much more work than what I have planned, I am currious as to why not to sleeve the tubes.

no, grind the ones on your axle and beat them to the correct angle with a rrrbfh and then weld. if you press them off you might never get them back on imo

 

[4x4phil]

Wow, personally I'd just put a high pinion front out of an xj. You're way works though. Your way's cheeper too. You know what, just ignore my suggestion, do it and tell me what it took, I'm interested.

 

[RUYellow]

Wow, personally I'd just put a high pinion front out of an xj. You're way works though. Your way's cheeper too. You know what, just ignore my suggestion, do it and tell me what it took, I'm interested.

It is a high pinion front out of an XJ.

Here is the current status.

 

[Brad]

Perfect alignment is overrated. Your caster has very little effect on tire wear and mostly effects the feel of the steering, heavy or light. Toe-in is most critical, followed by camber. Seems like you are putty a LOT of effort into this for little gain and possibly a weaker axle in the end, depending on how well you sleeve and weld that thing. Your steering would have been somewhat lighter than stock with a few degrees of negative caster but likely not enough to notice over the additional weight of your tires.

 

[mbryson]

Not to be an @ss, but you're doing a HELLA lot of work to a D30. I'd have just run it as is 'til it breaks. The high pinion should be OK unless you're over 8" lift or so..... My 6" (XJ) drove fine and aligned within factory spec with the RE adjustable control arms.

{but you're this far now, interesting}


I'd echo Red Rock's comments above. Steering will be a little different but will still feel 'stock' (which is debateable how good that is). The return to center will be the most affected.

 

[RUYellow]

Well, I had already made all new axle brackets and coil buckets. So the only difference between this and what I had planned is the Pass side upper mount and the sleeving itself. If I had to cut everything off just to do this, I would not have.

I figure that if I screwed it up I could get another HP30 for $100.00.

P.S. where were your comments before I laid the axle in the band saw.

 

[mbryson]

Well, I had already made all new axle brackets and coil buckets. So the only difference between this and what I had planned is the Pass side upper mount and the sleeving itself. If I had to cut everything off just to do this, I would not have.

I figure that if I screwed it up I could get another HP30 for $100.00.

True.......maybe less. You'll just need to find your 'stock' with the right inner diameter to 'sleeve' the long side and you're in business. Worst case, you snag another HP30 and learn from your experience.

P.S. where were your comments before I laid the axle in the band saw.

Dunno ??

 

[RUYellow]

A light sanding on the outside of the tube and it slides into 3" .25 wall.

Getting started now, I will post an update when I weld it together.

I will have .5 wall tubes when this is done.

 

[RockMonkey]

A light sanding on the outside of the tube and it slides into 3" .25 wall.

Getting started now, I will post an update when I weld it together.

I will have .5 wall tubes when this is done.

Are dana 30 tubes only 1/4" thick? If so, I'd say sleeving it on the outside will probably work fine. Are you going to drill some holes in the tube and plug weld it, or are you just going to weld it at the ends of the outer sleeve? I'd do both, if I were doing it that way. However, I'd grind off the knuckles and rotate it before I'd cut the tubes in half. If you use an inner sleeve it can be fairly small, and thin, since you are sort of "rebuilding" the cut in the tube by filling the gap with weld. With the sleeve on the outside, you can't reweld the inner tube back together, so you have to rely on the outer sleeve for strength. You can use a short .120 wall or less inner sleeve, since you are really just using it to properly align the two peices of tube while you eld it back together. With an outer sleeve you need to use thick tube, since the sleeve is where your axle is going to get all it's strength. Or maybe not, I dunno....

 

[Brad]

*polish* *polish* *polish*

Just giving you a hard time.

 

[RUYellow]

Are dana 30 tubes only 1/4" thick? If so, I'd say sleeving it on the outside will probably work fine. Are you going to drill some holes in the tube and plug weld it, or are you just going to weld it at the ends of the outer sleeve? I'd do both, if I were doing it that way. However, I'd grind off the knuckles and rotate it before I'd cut the tubes in half. If you use an inner sleeve it can be fairly small, and thin, since you are sort of "rebuilding" the cut in the tube by filling the gap with weld. With the sleeve on the outside, you can't reweld the inner tube back together, so you have to rely on the outer sleeve for strength. You can use a short .120 wall or less inner sleeve, since you are really just using it to properly align the two peices of tube while you eld it back together. With an outer sleeve you need to use thick tube, since the sleeve is where your axle is going to get all it's strength. Or maybe not, I dunno....

Well I have it sleeved and pressed back together. Yes I did 8 plug welds on each tube. Including 1 at the center where I could atleast weld a small section of the original tubes back together.

I agree if the sleeve was on the inside it could be thinner. I choose the outside, I am glad that I did. My castor is now set exactly the same on each side, and my pinion is at the correct angle.

 

[RUYellow]

*polish* *polish* *polish*

Just giving you a hard time.

Between the Super30, WJ knuckle, Cobra brakes, and this little adventure, I'd say that it is polished enough to have a nice shinny chrome finish.

P.S. that is the last of the polishing.

 

[mbryson]

............I agree if the sleeve was on the inside it could be thinner. I choose the outside, I am glad that I did. My castor is now set exactly the same on each side, and my pinion is at the correct angle.

That's almost worth it right there. I had one D30 that had a factory difference of 2 deg. caster It worked fine until I bent it.

 

[RUYellow]

Mine was about 3 degrees off from side to side, factory, all better now.

 

[JoeT]

Mine was about 3 degrees off from side to side, factory, all better now.

Quit posting little bro and get welding!