GMC / Chevy Project Dual Sport ; 1998 GMC Sierra

Wicked Monkey

Banned
Location
Utah
Good deal Greg! I agree it's nice to have another full size member! I'm also excited to see how ya do the suspension.
My thoughts: Since your willing to do some cutting to the fenders:) I say keep it low! You should be able to run the 35" tires on a 2" lift. Also since your going to tow and haul, I recommend keeping your rear suspension stiff. Longer springs in front would help with your solid axle swap. 52"? Coilover? What ever you decide... It will be a cool build, me thinks.
 

Greg

Strength and Honor!
Admin
As much as I'd like a low center of gravity, I don't think the profile of the frame will allow it AND afford any up travel. The truck will probably end up being somewhat tall, not a monster, but not a LCG build by any means. The Offroad Design SAS leaf spring kits have 3" lift built into them, add a 2" spring for 5" lift which isn't too bad IMO. I'll probably do a simple shackle flip in the rear, for 4" lift... that, combined with 5" in the front should level out the truck pretty well and keep the height reasonable.

I do want a Dana 60 front axle and Offroad Design offers bolt on Solid Axle Conversions for leaf springs for both the 31.5" wide spring pad axles and are working on a kit for the later 36" wide spring pad axles. With the high cost of a Dana 60, I keep trying to talk myself into thinking that a Dana 44 will do the job, with upgraded shafts, u-joints and hubs. Most of my travels off road will be pretty mild trails, stuff similar to Lockhart Basin, Elephant Hill, the San Juan mountain passes, etc. No real 'rock crawling' per se, mostly rough 4x4 roads. The downside to considering a Dana 44 is that I question if I should try running 37's to make up for the wheelbase and vehicle size. I think 35's may look a little small on a fullsize like this and 37's will roll over obstacles easier. On the other hand, 35's would be much better for towing... I'm really struggling with this aspect of the build! The bottom line is that I want a reliable rig for deep backcountry travel... so... stronger is better?

I have found some fiberglass fenders for these trucks... if I end up with 37's, I'll have to seriously consider them!
 

Kiel

Formerly WJ ZUK
Don't waist your money on the 44. Dana 60 and 35's will be great piece of mind in the back country
 

Chevycrew

Well-Known Member
Location
WVC, UT
Greg, feel free to ask away on any questions you might have on the build, I have done 5 sas chevy swaps now, everything from radius arms, leafs, 44, early 60, late 60, and rockwells...
 

Raleigh

OMF Dave
Location
VIVA LAS VEGAS
Sweet! I was looking at the cost of the IFS lift and it would be about the same cost as doing a D60 swap or less for a D44 and a rear shackle flip.

Since mine will be a DD and mild off roader I would be fine with a D44.
 
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Greg

Strength and Honor!
Admin
Greg, feel free to ask away on any questions you might have on the build, I have done 5 sas chevy swaps now, everything from radius arms, leafs, 44, early 60, late 60, and rockwells...

Sounds good Steve, I pretty much know what I need to do... just have to commit. I may have some questions for you, PM or phone?


Sweet! I was looking at the cost of the IFS lift and it would be about the same cost as doing a D60 swap and a rear shackle flip.

Yeah, funny how that works, huh?
 

Anchor_Mtn

Work Less, Travel More
Vendor
Location
Fruita, CO
Sounds a lot like the build from my old tahoe. If I was to do it all again, I would run coilovers in the front. I had 52" alcans in the front of mine(54" alcans in the rear) and it rode great, but I think It could have been tuned much better. Something along the lines of a radius arm front suspension with some 10" stroke coilovers would have been perfect. I ran the '79 ford D44 front axle with 35s and I never worried about breaking it.... its not a rock crawler.

If you decide to go with leafs, I would suggest the sky's manufacturing kit.

http://www.sky-manufacturing.com/new/detaproduct.php?id=310
 

Greg

Strength and Honor!
Admin
Sounds a lot like the build from my old tahoe. If I was to do it all again, I would run coilovers in the front. I had 52" alcans in the front of mine(54" alcans in the rear) and it rode great, but I think It could have been tuned much better. Something along the lines of a radius arm front suspension with some 10" stroke coilovers would have been perfect. I ran the '79 ford D44 front axle with 35s and I never worried about breaking it.... its not a rock crawler.

If you decide to go with leafs, I would suggest the sky's manufacturing kit.

http://www.sky-manufacturing.com/new/detaproduct.php?id=310

Yeah, I wish I would've had a chance to see your Tahoe work offroad! I am trying to keep it simple and not too complicated. I have considered coilovers and have some link parts in the garage that are left over which I have thought about, but leafs will do the job fine and the ORD parts will all bolt on. I have a big coilover/link project, don't need another one. ;)
 

Anchor_Mtn

Work Less, Travel More
Vendor
Location
Fruita, CO
The Sky Mfg. kit is only through 1997 model year...

It will work on Greg's rig. 88-98 C/K trucks are the same. Its a mistake on their site. Technically the '99s(new body style truck) were released in late '98 and that could be what they are considering.
 

Anchor_Mtn

Work Less, Travel More
Vendor
Location
Fruita, CO
Yeah, I wish I would've had a chance to see your Tahoe work offroad! I am trying to keep it simple and not too complicated. I have considered coilovers and have some link parts in the garage that are left over which I have thought about, but leafs will do the job fine and the ORD parts will all bolt on. I have a big coilover/link project, don't need another one. ;)

The tahoe worked well offroad. If you want to keep it fairly low you will want to cut the factory cross member out and replace it with box tube. You can see how I did mine over on the PBB with all home made brackets. http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=661346&page=3

If you have any questions on the swap, let me know....including where to get an axle. :)

25905_108605139162903_100000402535700_141215_3710715_n.jpg 27882_117945788228838_100000402535700_175185_7702184_n.jpg
 
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Greg

Strength and Honor!
Admin
The tahoe worked well offroad. If you want to keep it fairly low you will want to cut the factory cross member out and replace it with box tube. You can see how I did mine over on the PBB with all home made brackets. http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=661346&page=3

If you have any questions on the swap, let me know....including where to get an axle. :)

View attachment 69852 View attachment 69853

I was looking at that crossmember over the weekend, it does hang low! I checked out the build thread, some good ideas in there, thanks for the link! The Tahoe sure looked right with a solid axle and 35's!
 

Anchor_Mtn

Work Less, Travel More
Vendor
Location
Fruita, CO
Have to agree on the 60. By the time you upgrade axles, u-joints, ... its close to the same.

except for the almost $1000 difference in initial purchase.(79 ford D44 vs 79 ford D60). Plus why does he need to upgrade shafts and u joints? Theres no need to spend money on those things. ITS NOT A ROCKCRAWLER!!!! I would upgrade to a 1 ton rear(14 bolt/D60/etc) since you want to tow with it. Throw some 4.56 gears and lockers/limited slips of your choice and you are good to go. I had 4.56 gears in mine and it would run almost 80mph on the highway and climb hills great. It needed the computer flashed or at least speedo recalibrated since it was WAY off. At 80mph the speedo read 100.... and those chevys shut down at 100. It had plenty of power left to keep pulling, but it would kick out and be really annoying.
 

Kiel

Formerly WJ ZUK
Because then greg can say his grocery getter has dana 60s! Once you replace ballpoints every other year you will know!
 
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