Pros and cons 4.5" or 5.5"

[BlackSheep]

I'm in need of a bit more lift. I have about 4" right now, but want to get a little more out of it. I am mostly interested in purchasing a new set of springs (I already have a LA kit). Rubicon Express offers 4.5" and 5.5" springs. I know that as you go higher, your CG increases, but so does your breakover angle. I ran an obstacle this weekend that my breakover angle (combined with the mud) worked against me making the obstacle. I watched another TJ walk right over that same obstacle because of the extra lift he has over me.

What other concerns do I have when raising my vehicle up another 1" to 2"? Will the 4.5" springs be enough, or should I go for the 5.5" springs?

 

[Jeromy]

My dad and a few of my buddys have the 4.5 RE springs on their TJs. They seem to net more lift than the advertized 4.5. My dads Tj rides just as good if not better then mine with 3 BDS inch springs. He runs 35 inch MTRs on his jeep.

They are what I will be going with once I get a long arm kit.

 

[mesha]

DO you already have a coil spacer? What about a lower profile skid plate? Few buddies with 4.5 and 5.5 they both like them.

 

[BlackSheep]

DO you already have a coil spacer? What about a lower profile skid plate? Few buddies with 4.5 and 5.5 they both like them.

coil spacer? by this I assume you mean those budget type lift blocks that fit on top of the springs. If I am wrong, please correct me. I was considering that, but would prefer to have real springs to do my lifting rather than the coil spacers. I was considering that since it is much less expensive, but if I can pull off a new set of springs, I'd rather do that.

as for the skid plate, I have a Rubicon express longarm kit, and the kit integrates the skid plate with the control arm mounts. It does provide a small amount of additional clearance compared to the stock, but not much. I tried the skyjacker belly pan, but bent it pretty badly on my second trail run. It really wasn't designed well for the case of scraping across a bulging rock.

 

[mesha]

Your right that is what I was talking about. I have them and they are cheap and work fine if you are just trying to get a little more lift. If I had a lot of money then I would probably get springs too. So much for the belly pan idea huh. If you are like me and are debating 4.5 or 5.5 then you will get the 5.5 someday anyway. Might as well be now. I like being a little lower than I used to actually though. I have about 4.5 on mine and I like it 5.5 is good too though. good luck.





Hows that K&N working out for ya?

 

[Zukimog]

5.5" is a good height. The Rockcrawler springs are softer and more flexi than the RE springs. So going the Rockcrawler 5.5 you'll sit a little lower and have some nice flex happening on the trails

03' Rubi, 5.5" Clayton Stretch Kit @ 99" wheelbase (Rockcrawler springs), 36" IROK's on Allied Beadlocks, Clayton's flat skid, so far one of two and Clayton's hood loop and rear tube.

04' Rubi 5.5" Clayton TJ Kit (Rockcrawler springs), stock skid modified to accept the lift, 35" Claws on Allied Beadlocks.

 

[RockMonkey]

Put the stock springs back on, cut the fenders off, and run 37s.

Seriously, if what you're looking for is a better breakover angle, I'd go with a flat skid. You can make your own as stout as you want. You might have to put on a small (1"ish) body lift to keep your t-case out of your body tub, but that would keep your CG low, and improve your BA. Are you running 33s or 35s?

 

[BlackSheep]

Put the stock springs back on, cut the fenders off, and run 37s.

Seriously, if what you're looking for is a better breakover angle, I'd go with a flat skid. You can make your own as stout as you want. You might have to put on a small (1"ish) body lift to keep your t-case out of your body tub, but that would keep your CG low, and improve your BA. Are you running 33s or 35s?

I hear you. Unfortunately, it was just last year I spent the cash to put the Rubicon Express long arm kit (front arms built by RockLogic based on RE design). The obstacle I got caught on that prompted this thread actually I was caught on the rear lower control arms, so it really wasn't the belly pan that caused me trouble.

I may just have to live with what I have for a while. I have some pretty hefty bills coming up. I saw the longarm kit that RL built, and I do like it. It tucks the belly pan up pretty well, so It would be nice to go with something like that. Maybe I can sell the RE stuff....

I do already have a 1" body lift, along with the 1" motor mount kit. I am running 35" Krawlers now.

as far as fenders go, I do have a cool idea for the front fenders, but cash seems to be my problem. I put too much on my credit cards when I built this thing in the first place. I wish I had known more when I did build it, but live and learn.

thanks for the feedback. Oh yeah, the K&N filter seems to be working great.

 

[Zukimog]

I was caught on the rear lower control arms

Are they still in the stock location? There are ways to get them midline with the axle tube which allows to so slide right over stuff and never have that problem again. Same goes for the front

 

[BlackSheep]

Are they still in the stock location? There are ways to get them midline with the axle tube which allows to so slide right over stuff and never have that problem again. Same goes for the front

not sure exactly what you mean here. They are RE longarms, you probably knew that, and they are attached to the frame at the RE skid, but where they attach to the axle is the stock location. Where I was caught was about 6" behind the skid plate. Much closer to the skid plate than to the axle. In this case, if you are talking about moving the axle mount to the centerline of the axle, it may have helped a little, but not too much. Greater breakover angle is what I really needed.

mounting the control arms higher up inside the frame would have made a difference in this case.

 

[mbryson]

I'd go for the coil spacers..........

 

[BlackSheep]

I'd go for the coil spacers..........

you're joking........aren't you?

 

[mbryson]

you're joking........aren't you?

No. I ran with and without them and honestly couldn't tell the difference with the exception of the lift. IMHO, they're not in the same league as blocks for leaf springs {which I absolutely don't care for}.

To me, the more important thing is the length of the control arm. Where you've got adjustable control arms and can reset your wheelbase and caster angles with your control arms, I don't think the spacers are an issue.

Are they still in the stock location? There are ways to get them midline with the axle tube which allows to so slide right over stuff and never have that problem again. Same goes for the front

I'm not sure exactly what Zukimog is talking about here, but if it's what I'm thinking, I'd not do it again. There's a reason there's seperation is at the axle end.

 

[BlackSheep]

I actually have spacers on the front right now due to the fact that I wasn't able to install the 4" tera springs when I bought them. I installed those just to give me a relatively level rig with the 4" tera's in the rear.

for another $35 or so, I could have that extra 1.5".....after I install the front tera's.

 

[mbryson]

I actually have spacers on the front right now due to the fact that I wasn't able to install the 4" tera springs when I bought them. I installed those just to give me a relatively level rig with the 4" tera's in the rear.

for another $35 or so, I could have that extra 1.5".....after I install the front tera's.

Exactly. See what you get with that. Worst case, you've only spent $35, and you hate it. You may decide you want the springs from there (I'm not sure why, but maybe you will?). Best case, it gets you exactly what you wanted in the way of breakover angle and you live a happy, coil sprung Jeep life

 

[Zukimog]

In this case, if you are talking about moving the axle mount to the centerline of the axle, it may have helped a little, but not too much.

That's what I thought you meant. I have seen the stock lower control arm mounts get torn right off the axles The 5.5 is a good option and you're not too tall. Everything is functional

 

[Medsker]

I'd go for the coil spacers..........

I have to agree with this, I ran spacers on my first tj for three years without a problem. If you like the way your current springs flex and ride, putting a spacer in them makes sense, its not dangerous and its inexpensive. I wouldn't go over a couple of inches max. That being said I have the 4.5 rubi springs on my new tj and they flex like crazy. I never have a problem with stuffing them into the wheel wells. I run 35" tires with them but have significantly trimmed my front fenders to make sure I can take advantage of max articulation, the rear fenders are not trimmed but only rub under major stuff. I would like to point out the 35" tires I run are on the small side, about 34" tall when new.

Medsker