So I have been looking into axle shafts for my D44's... I read tons of different stuff about actual stregnth and different metals for them(seams most brands are a different type) Anyone know how they stack up in stregnth? I don't want some "alloys" that as 5-10% stronger. I want the goods... any insite?
question about Alloy axle shafts
- Thread starter gorillaxj
- Start date
Tacoma
Et incurventur ante non
- Location
- far enough away
I'm not sure how you mean "different type", all the alloys I have seen have been some 4xxx series CroMo. They are all "stronger" than stock shafts. The manner in which they are stronger may vary slightly, but they are all worth the upgrade.
EDIT: there are some good comparison threads on Pirate, if you want to dig around.
EDIT: there are some good comparison threads on Pirate, if you want to dig around.
Import and domestic 4340 blanks are forged differently, they say..
You would be really surprised at how many aftermarket shaft companies use the same importer.
Go to a SEMA show and see the back part of the event, the chinese vendors, look close at their product displays.
Dutchman sells import and domestic.
Most companies say their stuff is made at the OEM facilities for other major Vehicle brands.
I like Nitro Gear, Ten Factory, Yukon, Superior, Motive, Dutchman, etc..
Get the product that comes with the best warranty and customer service.
You would be really surprised at how many aftermarket shaft companies use the same importer.
Go to a SEMA show and see the back part of the event, the chinese vendors, look close at their product displays.
Dutchman sells import and domestic.
Most companies say their stuff is made at the OEM facilities for other major Vehicle brands.
I like Nitro Gear, Ten Factory, Yukon, Superior, Motive, Dutchman, etc..
Get the product that comes with the best warranty and customer service.
I guess I am over thinking it like I do most things...
Just curious the differences between shafts labeled-
4340 chromoly.
Forged alloy 1541-H
4140 material options
Just want to pick the "better" one. or are they labeled different just because of who makes them?
I have been looking at Dutchmen rears in 1541-h.
and either nitro fronts, or alloy usa...
Just curious the differences between shafts labeled-
4340 chromoly.
Forged alloy 1541-H
4140 material options
Just want to pick the "better" one. or are they labeled different just because of who makes them?
I have been looking at Dutchmen rears in 1541-h.
and either nitro fronts, or alloy usa...
flexyfool
GDW
- Location
- Boise, Idaho
Unless the 4340 is made properly and undergoes quality control, the 4340 shafts can be weaker than the stock shafts. Some years ago, when the Chinese imports came on the market, people were snapping the import D44 and D60 shafts like toothpicks. I saw a guy snap an import Dana 60 on the 1st obstacle on the 1st trail. He then tried to back off and snapped the other. The shafts had obvious bubble defects. I think the American companies imposed quality control at the Chinese factory and things got better.
I know the American made line from Superior (not their cheaper import line) and the old Warn 4340 shafts were made properly and quality controlled. I expect the CV shafts that are making an appearance now are stronger than stock. These are all very expensive shafts though.
As for all the others mentioned by UFAB, who knows? I expect they all come from the same factory in China. From what I've seen over the years, the imports are just as likely to break as the stock Spicers. My advice, if you have a stock width D44, is to stick with the stock axles and use high quality U-joints. If you break it, go to a Dana 60 with stock axles. Or, go to a Toyota axle with 4340 shafts.
I know the American made line from Superior (not their cheaper import line) and the old Warn 4340 shafts were made properly and quality controlled. I expect the CV shafts that are making an appearance now are stronger than stock. These are all very expensive shafts though.
As for all the others mentioned by UFAB, who knows? I expect they all come from the same factory in China. From what I've seen over the years, the imports are just as likely to break as the stock Spicers. My advice, if you have a stock width D44, is to stick with the stock axles and use high quality U-joints. If you break it, go to a Dana 60 with stock axles. Or, go to a Toyota axle with 4340 shafts.
1541-h is the 5-10% little stronger than stock. 4340 is the chromo alloy that is the best. I'm not familiar with 4140. There are some manufacturers that make them in the USA a little better, but you pay a lot for that. I would highly recommend Yukon. Their shafts are made overseas but I happen to know that Alljeep.com can get you a great price on their shafts! 
And the best part about Yukon, IMO is their customer service. I never had them turn away a customer wanting to warranty their 4340's! PM Ryan (skippy) and he'll get you a quote!
And the best part about Yukon, IMO is their customer service. I never had them turn away a customer wanting to warranty their 4340's! PM Ryan (skippy) and he'll get you a quote!ps, ask about the usa standard shafts, also made by Randy's Ring and Pinion (Yukon.) They're the same strength ad the Yukons but the last (polishing) step in the milling process is left out, so they don't arrive all shiny and blingy, and they're a good bit cheaper than the Yukons. I'd shy away from the USA standard ring and pinion sets though unless you're building an off-road only rig.
zukijames
Well-Known Member
- Location
- not moab anymore
rcv's
Interesting, but answers what I was wondering. I haven't had an issue with my stock shafts (yet) But would rather upgrade now rather then break it later lol.
Kind of makes me question what to do. I have only found 1541-h rear shafts. I guess the search continues.
Waggy D44 rear if you curious.
Kind of makes me question what to do. I have only found 1541-h rear shafts. I guess the search continues.
Waggy D44 rear if you curious.
Tacoma
Et incurventur ante non
- Location
- far enough away
Which Waggy rear, the offset 70's version, or the 80's one?
4140, btw, differs from 4340 in the omission of nickel in the alloy.
also, quality control nowadays is a quite a bit better than it used to be. Alloy 44 shafts make a lot of sense if you're not wanting to put a 60 in (for cost/weight/whatever).
4140, btw, differs from 4340 in the omission of nickel in the alloy.
also, quality control nowadays is a quite a bit better than it used to be. Alloy 44 shafts make a lot of sense if you're not wanting to put a 60 in (for cost/weight/whatever).
Which Waggy rear, the offset 70's version, or the 80's one?
4140, btw, differs from 4340 in the omission of nickel in the alloy.
also, quality control nowadays is a quite a bit better than it used to be. Alloy 44 shafts make a lot of sense if you're not wanting to put a 60 in (for cost/weight/whatever).
Centered from an 89 waggy
interesting, nickle... huh
I don't think my driving style requires a D60... no issues with stock shafts just looking for some extra security.
If I need a D60 I want a FRAME first
jeep-N-montero
Formerly black_ZJ
- Location
- Bountiful
So when I read things like this http://www.ebay.com/itm/21107-Alloy...Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c69d1c612&vxp=mtr that say "up to 35% stronger than stock", does this mean that they may only be 5-10% stronger or closer to 35%? I have chro-mo rear shafts right now and am considering upgrading the fronts, but is it worth it if I already have 297's with capped ears?
capped ears like these?
ironrockoffroad.com
is that something to even consider? run these with 760x joints, carry spares and not worry about it until they break?
I am really worried about the rear as I can't drive it home on a snapped semi float shaft. which is why I want alloys... should I just wait until one breaks?
In the back of my mind I keep thinking about doing a FF axle, and skip alloys. but that adds up fast lol
ironrockoffroad.com
is that something to even consider? run these with 760x joints, carry spares and not worry about it until they break?
I am really worried about the rear as I can't drive it home on a snapped semi float shaft. which is why I want alloys... should I just wait until one breaks?
In the back of my mind I keep thinking about doing a FF axle, and skip alloys. but that adds up fast lol
jeep-N-montero
Formerly black_ZJ
- Location
- Bountiful
Yes, the IRO caps keep the clips in. One of the issues that cause shaft failure is actually due to the clips getting loose under stress which leads to the caps falling out and can cause the ears to shear off. One day I hope to afford the RCV shafts, but for now I will try to get by with the caps and not be a throttle junkie.
I was really mean to my waggy 44's in my old rig and it took some real abuse before the front gears quit and nothing else failed. It was very light and a 4 cyl though so take it FWIW.
I have ten factory alloys in my 8.25 and I've been really happy with the added feeling of security and they were like $80 each. Now I have the stock shafts as spares and that is a good feeling too.
I just tack the caps on my 760x joints instead of buying the IRO stuff. I've had mixed results though and have thought about grinding the ears to make full circle clips fit but it's so much easier to just weld the caps and carry spares.
I have ten factory alloys in my 8.25 and I've been really happy with the added feeling of security and they were like $80 each. Now I have the stock shafts as spares and that is a good feeling too.
I just tack the caps on my 760x joints instead of buying the IRO stuff. I've had mixed results though and have thought about grinding the ears to make full circle clips fit but it's so much easier to just weld the caps and carry spares.
jeep-N-montero
Formerly black_ZJ
- Location
- Bountiful
Assuming you have the hp30 you will be fine with 33's or 35's for awhile if you use good judgement with the throttle.
I have a waggy D44.
- Location
- The Land Northward (Bountiful), Utah
Here is your list.
1541-h (only slightly better than stock)
4130 (chromium alloyed steel)
4340 (added nickel content)
300M (boutique 4000 series alloy added manganese)
Consider this: original axle shafts are the age of the axle (old).
Blended radius' and polishing reduce stress risers.
Rolled splines are generally stronger than cut splines.
"comp cut shafts" Carl Jantz knows his stuff! (consult his pirate threads for more knowledge than necessary).
Generally you get what you pay for with axleshafts.
Full circle clips are a must . Nice shafts are only as good as the u-joints you use.
If it looks chinzty (iro) it probably is.
1541-h (only slightly better than stock)
4130 (chromium alloyed steel)
4340 (added nickel content)
300M (boutique 4000 series alloy added manganese)
Consider this: original axle shafts are the age of the axle (old).
Blended radius' and polishing reduce stress risers.
Rolled splines are generally stronger than cut splines.
"comp cut shafts" Carl Jantz knows his stuff! (consult his pirate threads for more knowledge than necessary).
Generally you get what you pay for with axleshafts.
Full circle clips are a must . Nice shafts are only as good as the u-joints you use.
If it looks chinzty (iro) it probably is.