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Rear D60 Disc Brake Caliper Brackets

Lifelong Jeeper

Lifelong Jeeper

Well-Known Member
Location
Murray
So I am contemplating which way to go...bolt on or weld on and have a few questions.

If I go weld on:
  1. How do you line up the bracket so it is square and centered with the disc? I assume bolt it all up, plumb the brakes, press on the pedal, tack it in, etc. but that seems like a pain.
  2. Should I cut the flange out of my old drum backing plate so the dimension behind the hub is correct? I don't want sand and grit to get down in there to wear out the seal.
  3. Do I weld it inboard or outboard of the original mounting flange on the axle tube?

Does anybody have any for sale?

Is there anybody local that sells them? Otherwise I've looked at Bluetorch Fab and Ballistic.

Which way did you do it? Good, bad or different.

Thanks everyone.
 
thenag

thenag

Registered User
Location
Kearns
I went bolt on with my 14 bolt. If Ruff Stuff Specialties makes a bolt on one that will work that will save you a lot of time trying to get everything lined up.

I have been told that welding them in place isn't that hard, I wasn't really paying attention when it was explained to me since by that time I knew I was going to use bolt on.

I wouldn't be scared of going weld on if you don't think a bolt on will get you what you want, it actually looks like the weld on ones are far more adaptable.

so really no help here sorry

http://74.86.88.201/catalog/Weldon.html

nathan
-99 xj in progress
 
Justin Lake

Justin Lake

Member
Location
South Weber, UT
I went with the weld on for my tera 60 just because that was my only option. It was kind of tricky getting everything square. I really couldn't bolt the caliper on, plumb the brake lines, clamp it to the rotor and tack it on. The caliper I ended up using doesn't actually bolt the bracket to the caliper. The holes in the bracket are actually bigger than the caliper pin so the pins can move in and out freely so clamping and tacking wouldn't work. I just used a square and tacked it on, measured and re measured to get it as close as possible. I drove it around with some pretty good tacks on the bracket while hitting the brakes a lot and took the pads off to check un-even/even wear and adjusted accordingly. I think it is almost impossible to get it exactly square with this kind of setup. This axle comes already setup with ford explorer disc brakes so I did end up having to cut the flange out of the old caliper bracket and dust shield in order for the seal to work properly. I'm not going to lie, it was a pain in the ass. Go bolt on if you can, it sounds alot easier.
 
Lifelong Jeeper

Lifelong Jeeper

Well-Known Member
Location
Murray
Justin Lake said:
I went with the weld on for my tera 60 just because that was my only option. It was kind of tricky getting everything square. I really couldn't bolt the caliper on, plumb the brake lines, clamp it to the rotor and tack it on. The caliper I ended up using doesn't actually bolt the bracket to the caliper. The holes in the bracket are actually bigger than the caliper pin so the pins can move in and out freely so clamping and tacking wouldn't work. I just used a square and tacked it on, measured and re measured to get it as close as possible. I drove it around with some pretty good tacks on the bracket while hitting the brakes a lot and took the pads off to check un-even/even wear and adjusted accordingly. I think it is almost impossible to get it exactly square with this kind of setup. This axle comes already setup with ford explorer disc brakes so I did end up having to cut the flange out of the old caliper bracket and dust shield in order for the seal to work properly. I'm not going to lie, it was a pain in the ass. Go bolt on if you can, it sounds alot easier.
Click to expand...

Thanks Man. Your input was complete and has actually helped me make up my mind. Bolt on it is. Now I just have to decide whose brackets to buy.

Tacoma said:
I'd go bolt on, from RuffStuff, Blue Torch, anyone but Ballistic.
Click to expand...

Really? I know Ballistic takes FOREVER to ship your product, but is there another reason to steer clear?

I'll have to check out RuffStuff. I've never actually heard of them.

I was impressed with BTF.

Thanks again
 
Tacoma

Tacoma

Et incurventur ante non
Location
far enough away
Do you need another reason besides them taking forever to ship? If you do, google up the time they stole Summit's design AND their ad copy, word for word. :D Google how many people have had pretty big issues, and see if that's the company you want to spend your money with when there are stand-up companies who treat customers right-- like Blue Torch and especially RuffStuff.

Freedom of choice, but I like to support companies and individuals who don't stick their customers with long waits, problems, etc. The list is pretty short, but I know I can rely on certain companies to do it right.
 
mierdota

mierdota

Well-Known Member
tio i really like rough stuff they are a cool company and seem to really take care of their customers.
 
T

Too Far

parts is parts
Location
Highland
I would use ruffstuff parts either way you decide to go.

I am installing disks on my 70 and this is my plan.
I will be using the weld on kit for 3.5" tube.
Using k20 rotors, they run about $36-40 right now from what I was able to find. Ruffstuff kit is $50, and 3/8" thick plate. They didn't have a specific bolt on kit for my Dodge 70, so thats why I went with weld on.
I am using front chevy single piston calipers, they are about the most common caliper around. I grabbed a set from a 4wd 80's suburban at the wrecking yard for $10 each. Rebuild ones at the autoparts store run about $15 each, but with a core charge of $15-25, so its nice to have some cores to take in.
Now bolt the calipers to the brackets and with new pads installed slip them over the rotor. You can plumb air from your compressor into the caliper to make it clamp down on the rotor holding it square and in place.
Now position the bracket where you want it to go. Keep in mind that the caliper will move inward as the pads wear, so make sure you allow for that on the bracket positioning. The pins can slide on the caliper and you want to make sure you leave enough room for the caliper to slide inward at least as much as the thickness of a brake pad. Fairly straight forward and is pretty easy.
Now the caliper is clammped down, the bracket is positioned where you want it. Square the bracket up to the axle tube as best you can and tack it down.
Double check everything, and then burn it in. On the 3/8" ruffstuff brackets I like to chamfer the plate where i will be welding to try and ensure decent penetration.
Thats about it. The bolt on brackets are certainly easier, but you loose all the ability to put the calipers exactly where you want them.
 
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