Replacing floorpans?

81Ramchargerman

Registered User
Location
idaho falls
K...the only thing holding my foot off the ground is the rubber carpet...didn't find anything in the search...is it best to buy a pre fabbed one, just have some sheet metal bent, or cut it out of another rc? (from an economical,(aka poor person) standpoint) Also, is it better to weld them in, or is it ok to just rivet and seal. Any help is appreciated...
 

Rusted

Let's Ride!
Supporting Member
Location
Sandy
For my CJ, I bought some pre shaped ones from JC Whitney. They are hevier guage than stock, so I am happy with that, but I was dissapointed with the way they fit in. I was expecting a more or less "lay in", and they were not that. What I ended up doing was this:

Step one: Cut out old rust spots, leaving what was left in more or less straight lines, so that when I was done I could seal up straight areas and not all kinds of shapes

Step two: Lay in the floor pan, then start beating on it with a BFH. I fould that if I could put the pan in more or less the right spot, then bend one corner to lay down were it belonged I could then weld that corner in place. I would then use the hammer (a ball pein hammer worked great at bending the sheets into place). I would shape / weld / shape / weld as I went along.

Step three: I used a 2x4 and a floor jack to then jack my old floor up against my new floor and I was then able to weld across those straight lines (See step one) and completely seal off the bottom of the floor as well.

Step four: From an auto body supply shop I picked up a tube of seam sealer, it comes in a caulking gun and was about $10 per tube. It is the stuff they use to seal the corners of pick up beds that holds up for years, and stays a little soft. I used that to plug up any areas that I could not weld shut or were difficult to weld


All in all I am very happy with the final project. It took much longer than I expected and there was lots more cutting / hammering that I expected. My first pan took an evening to get in place, and the second was a little quicker.
 

waynehartwig

www.jeeperman.com
Location
Mead, WA
I've had this problem before, and all I did was fiberglass a new floor in place. I just pealed back all of the interior, took some coarse paper and worked out all of the rust I could then I cleaned it up real good with thinner. Then I took some matting and resin and worked it in shape. Presto! Stronger than original! :)
 

RKCRWLR

Active Member
Location
Sandy, UT
Replaced mine on another vehicle (YJ is not rusty yet). I cut out most of the original pans, laid the new pans in place, used an air saw to cut the new pan and the original sheet metal simultaneously, then butted the new and old together and welded. Flap disked the welds and painted them. You could not tell the pans were ever replaced. A lot of work, but its the "correct" way to do it if your into that. I was working a 66 Mustang, so it was in that case.
 

DaveB

Long Jeep Fan
Location
Holladay, Utah
RKCRWLR said:
Replaced mine on another vehicle (YJ is not rusty yet). I cut out most of the original pans, laid the new pans in place, used an air saw to cut the new pan and the original sheet metal simultaneously, then butted the new and old together and welded. Flap disked the welds and painted them. You could not tell the pans were ever replaced. A lot of work, but its the "correct" way to do it if your into that.

This is the way I did my Scrambler floor pans, worked great and it looks good when you are done.
Dave
 

koondawg

Registered User
i would

I didnt have a welder when I did mine, and it needed to be street legal,
If you have a welder, Make it nice:)
 
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