Retaining wall / garage build

Vonski

nothing to see here...
Location
Payson, Utah
We need to talk. If you are around when I come to RMATV tonight come by before our meeting.
Paul, I just saw this @ 6:00 and I’m in my shop at home. You’re more than welcome to swing by before or after the meeting. I’m just 5-ish minutes north of there. 801-718-8452
 

Pike2350

Registered User
Location
Salt Lake City
While I love a lot of the ideas presented the garage will be much more residential then shop styling.
I will more than likely do standard garage doors (preferably as wide as I can on a 2 car garage) no drain just epoxy floors....good electrical service, storage and room to do some work on things when I want. Being in a city that is more urban and only on .18 acres I can't go too crazy.
 

Vonski

nothing to see here...
Location
Payson, Utah
While I love a lot of the ideas presented the garage will be much more residential then shop styling.
I will more than likely do standard garage doors (preferably as wide as I can on a 2 car garage) no drain just epoxy floors....good electrical service, storage and room to do some work on things when I want. Being in a city that is more urban and only on .18 acres I can't go too crazy.
I kinda figured, as I used to live in Holladay. Most of this info was geared more toward those just following the thread.
 

mbryson

.......a few dollars more
Supporting Member
I did a 20' wide garage door and I LOVE it. I'd recommend going as wide of a door as you can. Really opens up the space. I can't comment on usage (yet)
 

Pike2350

Registered User
Location
Salt Lake City
So I've been doing work on this still... but have had to so a bit more of it myself due to work cutting hours and wife being furloughed due to virus.

I would've had Chance come and do it...and did get a good bid from him but it was right around the time everything went on lockdown....so I improvised.

I found out my wife's uncle had an old small skid steer I could borrow. Free/beer money cost is always nice. I borrowed it and started tearing out some of the dirt. It was slow and no real pictures other then this right before.20200330_183907.jpg

The little guy worked but it wasn't going to get much done quickly....oh well I have time.

I had a tree behind the existing carport/single car garage that would need to come down. I had bought a small chainsaw last fall from a fellow RME member and thought I'd start cutting. It was a 40' tall Chinese Elm...weed tree. I was able to get it down with the help of a few neighbors
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I decided I would rent a mini excavator and trench for the retaining wall myself.....low and behold my Father-in-law's neighbor, who is also an excavator had some work fall through so for a case of beer a fay and gas money he brought his excavator over and trenched and pulled the stump for me....he also picked up gravel and loaded behind the wall after I got the blocks set.....so the excavating ended up costing about $300....including the gravel.
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Unfortunately i still had to deal with dumping dirt....luckily i still have the small beater Bobcat from my wife's uncle. I rented a dump trailer and started working on that today. My dad has 3 acres in West Jordan so I've been dumping it there too save more money.... so that's where I'm at now.
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Pike2350

Registered User
Location
Salt Lake City
I'm excited. I have the work beginning in the AM. I finally got the dirt out of there and have been getting bids for various parts of the project.....so I could decide what I wanted to handle myself. I got. Few quotes on my plans and finally settled on a contractor to do the whole building. I will have to still do the final driveway and remove the carport......but after getting some bids it was just easier to hire. GC to do all the work on getting the the building itself done.

I pulled the permit myself almost 2 months ago and spent way too much time trying to get quotes on everything.

I settled on a 24x28 with. 18' door... I'm debating swapping to a 20' but think the 18' will be fine. It's going to be vinyl siding for cost but I am doing brick wainscoting on the bottom to tie into the look of the house....at least of the 2 walls that are visible. I went with a 6/12 pitch with a storage trusses.

Tonight I marked it out on the yard with paint and decided 28 was too much...so now it will be 24x26. I am also worried about the 6/12 pitch due to all the houses in the neighborhood either being a 4/12 or like mine a 2/12 pitch I'm worried the 6/12 will stand out a little too much. I'm debating swapping down to a 4/12 with some storage trusses. thoughts?
 

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Jinx

when in doubt, upgrade!
Location
So Jordan, Utah
Where did you get your plans? I have been following your thread and been chasing a lot of the same information (zoning, setbacks, variances, etc), but I am at a point where I either buy the “kit” and use their plans (Which I have had heard horror stories) or hire someone to draw up the plans.
 

Pike2350

Registered User
Location
Salt Lake City
I actually didn't get specific plans. My Fater-In-Law does erecting metal...mostly work for high end houses. He drew up what I submitted to the city for approval. It's very basic...but being a 4 sided box there isn't much to it. The footings was probably the most detailed....which is being poured as I type.
 

Jinx

when in doubt, upgrade!
Location
So Jordan, Utah
I actually didn't get specific plans. My Fater-In-Law does erecting metal...mostly work for high end houses. He drew up what I submitted to the city for approval. It's very basic...but being a 4 sided box there isn't much to it. The footings was probably the most detailed....which is being poured as I type.
Thanks for the reply! I was hoping you had someone that worked well and I can to use, but I totally get what you are talking about good luck with things, post lots of pics! ;)
 

I Lean

Mbryson's hairdresser
Vendor
Location
Utah
It might factor into your door decision (it did mine), but at least when I was looking it was much more expensive to get a 20' door than an 18'. From memory, adding that extra 2' was approximately double the cost for the door.
 

mbryson

.......a few dollars more
Supporting Member
It might factor into your door decision (it did mine), but at least when I was looking it was much more expensive to get a 20' door than an 18'. From memory, adding that extra 2' was approximately double the cost for the door.


I think our breakover cost point was the 22' door? It was almost double the cost as you mention. We went with the 20' due to cost. Ours are insulated so I'm not sure if that was a factor as well? Maybe depends on the door mfg? Our vendor was Price's FWIW. They've been pretty good to work with but I have no idea if my contractor has a "special" price deal with them or ????
 

I Lean

Mbryson's hairdresser
Vendor
Location
Utah
I think our breakover cost point was the 22' door? It was almost double the cost as you mention. We went with the 20' due to cost. Ours are insulated so I'm not sure if that was a factor as well? Maybe depends on the door mfg? Our vendor was Price's FWIW. They've been pretty good to work with but I have no idea if my contractor has a "special" price deal with them or ????

Interesting. Mine was Martin Doors, for comparison. IIRC I paid about $1800 installed w/opener for a 10x18 insulated. 10x20 would have been $3500ish.

Edit: that was 10 years ago.
 

Pike2350

Registered User
Location
Salt Lake City
Interesting. Mine was Martin Doors, for comparison. IIRC I paid about $1800 installed w/opener for a 10x18 insulated. 10x20 would have been $3500ish.

Edit: that was 10 years ago.

The 18' x 8' was about 1800. The opener is another 500 for belt drive installed. I didn't even think about a 20'....but I'm OK with an 18'

Footings
 

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Pike2350

Registered User
Location
Salt Lake City
So apparently there was some misunderstanding/miscommunication on my part in regards to the trusses. I had asked for storage space in the trusses and assumed that would mean they would be built like an attic truss...only smaller scale for the 5/12 pitch.

The contractor called them "light duty storage" so I knew he understood the storage part. I finally got a schematic foe the trusses and it's not quite what I thought. They are building them, what looks like to me to be a normal truss. There isn't a center vertical web board nor are the webs off the center of the bottom chord at a 70* angle or so. Instead there is about a 6'6" span of open space along the bottom, in the center..but the webs still go up at an angle to the peak of the truss....so instead of creating a square opening in the middle of the truss its a triangle.....which seems to lessen the affective storage.

I dont want to delay the build and supposedly the attic truss style would be quite a bit more expensive. Can these be modified after the fact to be more verical? Would it even be worth it? Will I have decent amount of storage up there at all?
What I am getting vs. What I thought I would be getting
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mbryson

.......a few dollars more
Supporting Member
We got the same answer on our roof trusses. They didn't quite understand what I thought they did as we were in the planning stages. (this was for our house but I can't imagine the trusses are different?)
 
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