Rim Size?

greenjeep

Cause it's green, duh!
Location
Moab Local!
Okay, I'm finally getting a new set of axles (Chevy Dana 60 and 14 bolt) and unfortunately my 5 on 5.5" beadlocks on a 15" rim aren't going to work, which unfortunately means my 15" MTR's, which I just ordered from Kentucky, aren't going to work either. So I'm in the market for a new set of rims and tires. My question is what size rim, it seems like I need it least 16" to clear the drums, but these days it seems like 17" rims are what everybody is running. So does it really matter, or should I just find whatever it is cheapest and go with that?

Also I would like to find another beadlock set, I've seen some pretty good deals on Hummer double beadlocks, are these worth it or are they just hype? It seems there is a lack of used beadlocks, should I just bag finding some external beadlocks and go with internal one like a Staun-style beadlock?
 

Bucking Bronco

................
Location
Layton
I would go with 17 it seems like that is the direction everyone is going

Altho I think the chevy axles can run 15 in wheels but not 100% on that
 

kowe69

wannabe
The 14 bolt will run 15" 8 lug wheels. the 60 would require some grinding to the calipers which is done quite often. I have just looked into this myself and will likely use 15" wheels for a while since I also have 15" MTRs I still want to use.
 

chadschoon

Well-Known Member
Location
lehi
I've got a ford 60 and I'm doing the DIY beadlocks and I'm going to run a 15" rim. There's not that much to grind. I was supprised
 

mbryson

.......a few dollars more
Supporting Member
But I still have the problem with my rims being 5 on 5.5". Is there any way to redrill the axles?



It's just the hubs you need to swap out or redrill.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Dana...007QQitemZ170129579254QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD1V

A set of Chev 8 lug SRW hubs goes for about $250-300 if they're internally splined (I don't know of any that aren't but...).


The 14 bolt, I don't know. I know it's been done using a rear 60 that are EASY to find.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/search.php?searchid=1663559 (I don't know if that search will pull up for you)

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=625356&highlight=14+bolt+hub+pattern

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=567572&highlight=14+bolt+hub+pattern

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=440068&highlight=14+bolt+hub+pattern (see post #5)
 
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Tacoma

Et incurventur ante non
Location
far enough away
Solid Axle sells 60 hubs w/no holes drilled at all, for whatever bolt pattern that will fit on the flange.

Hmmmm they're not on their website anymore.... I'm sure a call to a rep would help...
 

Dana

Member
Location
Jamaica Beach
Dave, my axles are Chevy and 15". I think spidertrax and others sell wheel spacers that adapt lug patterns. (Advantage here is you can save some $$ now using stuff you have and next time you get new rims remove the adapters / sell 'em on ebay) Know for sure you can adapt TJ to CJ and vice versa. Gotta think there are other versions. That being said I'd buy whatever you think you want to run for the next 20 years. Single beadlocks are a PITA to set-up- doubles sound like a horror show.
 

greenjeep

Cause it's green, duh!
Location
Moab Local!
Dana, it's good to hear from you! I've seen several of your posts, and I'm glad you've been able to make it here.

I thought about getting some wheel adapters, but with a WMS of 68" I didn't want to add another inch or so like the adapters would. I have some potential buyers for my current wheels and tires, and H1 beadlocks aren't too terribly expensive. I've done some research on them, and they actually don't look that bad to install, you have either 8 or 12 bolts holding them together rather than a 32 or 40 beadlock bolts on typical external beadlocks. It looks like the biggest pain is getting the insert in the tire.

Anyway, it looks like I'll just end up going with what ever is cheapest! (Isn't that always the way?)
 

mbryson

.......a few dollars more
Supporting Member
..... I've done some research on them, and they actually don't look that bad to install, you have either 8 or 12 bolts holding them together rather than a 32 or 40 beadlock bolts on typical external beadlocks. It looks like the biggest pain is getting the insert in the tire.
..



There's a tech article somewhere on here that I did regarding the H1 inserts. They're really quite easy to put together.
 

Tacoma

Et incurventur ante non
Location
far enough away
12 bolts are a different design, and can't be recentered. The beadlock bolts and the wheel mounts are on the same chunk o' steel. I posed a question on Pirate the other day, and this pic came of it:

Hummerrims12vs8_iroks_39.JPG
 

greenjeep

Cause it's green, duh!
Location
Moab Local!
So, what is that picture meant to prove, it looks like the rim on the left or the 12 bolt and the one on the right is the eighth bolt. Am I missing another point?

Mbryson, why did you decide to get rid of your H1 beadlocks? You can PM me if you'd prefer.
 

Tacoma

Et incurventur ante non
Location
far enough away
Uhmmmm ok. It's not meant to prove jack sh*t, just showing the difference in the beadlock ring, and the functional difference in design, as it relates to safety, if you were dumb enough to undo the beadlock instead of the lugnuts.


anyway. Obviously you COULD recenter the 12bolt, but it wouldn't look as clean.
 

mbryson

.......a few dollars more
Supporting Member
So, what is that picture meant to prove, it looks like the rim on the left or the 12 bolt and the one on the right is the eighth bolt. Am I missing another point?

Mbryson, why did you decide to get rid of your H1 beadlocks? You can PM me if you'd prefer.

I'm honestly kind of regretting it. They work awesome, I just couldn't balance them and wanted more of a less 'trail only' rig.
 

greenjeep

Cause it's green, duh!
Location
Moab Local!
Uhmmmm ok. It's not meant to prove jack sh*t, just showing the difference in the beadlock ring, and the functional difference in design, as it relates to safety, if you were dumb enough to undo the beadlock instead of the lugnuts.


anyway. Obviously you COULD recenter the 12bolt, but it wouldn't look as clean.
Okay, I gotcha!

So the fundamental difference between the 12 bolt, and a 8 bolt is that the 8 bolt can only be used with bias ply tires, whereas the 12 bolt can use radial or bias, correct?
I'm honestly kind of regretting it. They work awesome, I just couldn't balance them and wanted more of a less 'trail only' rig.
Did you ever try the whole, "throw a handful of BBs in the tire before mounting them" idea? It seems to me that if that works, that be the easiest way to do it, especially for a rig that sees virtually no highway driving.

How hard is it to get in the beadlock insert? I've heard removing it can be a pain in the A$$.

How bad do your hubs get beat on if you are running SRW hubs? Do drive flanges eliminate this problem?

Thanks for the help, I am just trying to figure out where best to put my money.
 

Tacoma

Et incurventur ante non
Location
far enough away
Okay, I gotcha!

So the fundamental difference between the 12 bolt, and a 8 bolt is that the 8 bolt can only be used with bias ply tires, whereas the 12 bolt can use radial or bias, correct?


Maybe. Opinions vary. Tire pressure and load capacity are the issues that need to be worked around. As my tire pressure w/the SX's I'll probably run will be within spec, and I don't need 11k worth of load capacity on a Blazer, I think I'll take my chances.

Your mileage may vary.
 

greenjeep

Cause it's green, duh!
Location
Moab Local!
Maybe. Opinions vary. Tire pressure and load capacity are the issues that need to be worked around. As my tire pressure w/the SX's I'll probably run will be within spec, and I don't need 11k worth of load capacity on a Blazer, I think I'll take my chances.

Your mileage may vary.
So you're using the 8 bolt? Are yours stock or are you recentering them?
 

mbryson

.......a few dollars more
Supporting Member
....Did you ever try the whole, "throw a handful of BBs in the tire before mounting them" idea? It seems to me that if that works, that be the easiest way to do it, especially for a rig that sees virtually no highway driving.

How hard is it to get in the beadlock insert? I've heard removing it can be a pain in the A$$.

How bad do your hubs get beat on if you are running SRW hubs? Do drive flanges eliminate this problem?

Thanks for the help, I am just trying to figure out where best to put my money.

Yes, I tried almost everything I could think of. I think the wheel weighs about 40 lbs? insert say 15? Add a 38" SX to that and you've got a little weight out there.

I used the PVC beadlock inserts. I'd do it again. They're not bad at all to get to work. You may need to recruit some help as you're not going to have the 'mass' required, but I just 'jumped' on mine.
http://www.rockymountainextreme.com/showthread.php?t=41503&highlight=hummer+beadlock

If you ran the CHEAP (i.e. readily available) duallie hubs, you'll have a protected hub. However, you'll be WIDE in the front, but it may make your tire path be cool on the trail. I'd assume the rear tire would follow inside of the front one in corners.
dually hub
dually_hub-H1_wheel.jpg

SRW hub
SRW_hub-H1_wheel.jpg

The above pictures are the 12.50 tires. I ran Coyote with you last year with 14.50 tires.
 
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