Rusty's long-arms, opinions?

DOSS

Poker of the Hornets Nest
Location
Suncrest
Rustys stuff is Beefy but those acme threads on the UCA will be noisy if you have any cross caster at all that you have to adjust for (almost every D30 out there has some) I ended up giving my Rustys UCA's to a friend becouse I couldn't stand the noise... but they are seriously stout
 

DOSS

Poker of the Hornets Nest
Location
Suncrest
I had the short arms but even on the long arm the upper arm has the Acme thread and will be noisy.. I doubt it will break as it is seriously heavy duty
 

grandmaster

Let the build Re-begin
Location
St. George, Utah
I say stay away too. You get what you pay for... I would stick with kevins, claytons, and i personally have heard lots of good things from TNT customs. But Kevin is now selling claytons stuff.

Cody will be back from GSW soon and im sure he will have some input.
 

jeep-N-montero

Formerly black_ZJ
Location
Bountiful
I just want something to get a little bit of my ride quality back with my taller springs and don't plan on ever running bigger than 33's. I figure if locked with 33's won't get me through, then I probably don't want to be there.
 

Zombie

Random Dead Guy
Location
Sandy Utah
I need to take a picture of my rear short arms. I'm was/am on 4.5" and 32s. It's almost comical to look at the difference in angle between the rear short arms and the front long arms.
My grand rode rough... bad enough that my wife didn't want to ride in it on the 4.5" and short arms. It was a little better on the F/R swap, but not much. Just in terms of angle of impact, the longarms are very superior, both on and off the road.

It'll work on shorties, but it'll kind of suck.
 

Zombie

Random Dead Guy
Location
Sandy Utah
shortarmrear.JPG

Short ^

longarmfront.JPG

Long.

See the difference? more of the force of rolling over bumps can be absorbed into the spring with a long arm. The closer you get vertical, the more impact is transfered into the frame (on a ZJ that means body, and seat) and the harsher the ride.

Just food for thought.
 

1993yj

.
Location
Salt Lake
I hate the 'go with the crowd' mentality, but it usually holds some water...

Usually things cost more for a reason, whether it be quality or name brand. Since we are not talking fashion here, I would probably take the advice of the crowd. Many of us have gone the cheap route first, only to redo projects the correct way, and in the end spend over twice as much.
 

Zombie

Random Dead Guy
Location
Sandy Utah
Everybody hated on short arms when I bought them. In January.

Yeah.. this last january.... 2008.
I bought them anyway.
I didn't like them. They worked really well, in terms of articulation. If you go short arm, make sure you get adjustable with an articulating joint. There were a handfull of other factors that went into my change to long arms too, so I can't say it's all about hating the short arms. If you don't drive your ZJ a lot, you'll probably be fine with short arms.

I just read the install instructions of the Rusty's kit. It Bolts on. Yeah, you could weld it on too, but that's just scary that they reccomend it to bolt on. It also retains the rear track bar. To be completely honest, I'd buy another Rubicon Express short arm kit before I'd buy Rusty's long arms. PM Wayne Heartwig. he'll get you a deal on RE stuff.
 

grandmaster

Let the build Re-begin
Location
St. George, Utah
Many of us have gone the cheap route first, only to redo projects the correct way, and in the end spend over twice as much.

He hit it right on the nose. And like zombie said, the advantage of bolt on is the ease of installation. But a weld distributes the load more evenly along the surface of the unibody
 

jeep-N-montero

Formerly black_ZJ
Location
Bountiful
I'm replacing my RE LCA bushings in the morning, so I'll see how she rides with the new ones and the new front and rear IRO trac-bars. My ZJ only gets driven about 1 day a week unless the weather gets crappy, so not too worried about the ride. But adjustables would help out a bit, so maybe do that soon.
 
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