Isuzu SAS conversion?

[THSDragoon]

I haven't been wheeling for near as long as most of the other guys on this board, so take this for what it's worth, but I think those are the sort of questions that if you have to ask, you're not ready to be doing those mods anyway. You could go balls out and build yourself a super-truck straight out of the gate, but you wouldn't get the most out of it, and I think your mods would turn into crutches if you know what I mean.

I think if you're newish, you take your stock truck out and flog it for all it's worth. Get some solid AT tires maybe a size up from stock, rock sliders to protect your panels, and go learn to wring everything you can out of the truck. Worry about mods once you've gone everywhere local that truck can possibly go.

That's my two cents, anyway. Welcome back!

Sounds good. Well, for sure I plan on getting as much wheel time as possible, and I do plan on getting more aggressive tires, but all this will come as soon as I can get a job. Besides, I don't plan on having a trail monster for quite a few years down the road until I do have that experience you are talking about. So yes, your 'two cents' is appreciated, and will most likely to by put into action. So thanks for the advice!

 

[Jeepj667]

Check out planetisuzoo.com for everything you need to know.

I'm not sure about your year but If it's the same as the 98+ you can get 33's on it with just a set of OME springs and a torsion bar crank.

The only options for lockers are ARB or an Aussie.

 

[sixstringsteve]

spork had some good suggestions of how to beef up the stock steering.

I think 33's are going to be your best bet on that rig. If it were mine, I'd go with an ARB lift (2" or so) and run some 33's and trim the fenders to make room for the 33's (that's the tough part). Once you go up in tire size it's going to be harder to crawl slowly due to the tires wanting to travel more distance per revolution. If you keep driving like you did last night, you're not going to have to replace much. Seriously, I've wheeled with guys that have been doing this for 5+ years, and you drove better than them. Just keep doing what you're doing, taking it easy and gently and slowly tackling obstacles and you shouldn't have to worry about most parts breaking.


Installing an ARB lift is about 1000 times easier than a sas, but about 10 times harder than changing your oil.

 

[Spork]

The Trooper I believe has 4.56 Gears stock, I think originally mine came with 245/75/16 tires and I bumped it up to 265/75/16 I think you could easily do 285/75/16 (33"s) and still be geared fine. From everything I read, the tie rods and front CV's are the major weakness. If you have a bunch of mileage then U-joints may need some love. If I weren't selling mine I would get a spare CV shaft for backup.

If you're pretty much stock I would put on some sliders, beef up the cross member that supports the transfer case before I did anything else. The trooper just isn't high off the ground, I was dragging my belly the first time I took mine out. They climb like crazy and are quite capable and can haul a ton.

 

[THSDragoon]

Installing an ARB lift is about 1000 times easier than a sas, but about 10 times harder than changing your oil.

This last part is probably my favorite.

As for the year, its a 95. And I will check out planetisuzoo tonight if I don't get too tired.... so where would I be able to find a lift kit for the trooper for a reasonable price?

For the Cv's I believe they were replaced around 50k miles or so ago, so I think I'm good there. But total mileage in the trooper is 140k miles. And no, I don't plan on selling any time soon.

and also yes, i am currently total stock with street tires and all. so currently the list of basic upgrades that everyone has suggested is: 2-4'" ARB lift with ARB locker in the back, 33 inch tires, rock sliders, beefier cross members for transfer case, beefier tie rods, at least one spare CV (preferrably 2 i assume, one for each side), and general armor. correct me if im wrong, but i belive this is the summary so far.

 

[Spork]

Both sides are the same so you can get by with one spare CV. I did the ARB 2" coil and cranked the front torsion bars on mine. It was pretty cheap and helped get some clearance.

 

[THSDragoon]

ok, and would i need to fab the transfer case cross member, or is there somewhere i can buy one? same for the tie rods.

 

[Jeepj667]

Call Kurt at Cruiser Outfitters for OME springs. I have the 919's but wish I had gotten the 929's.
I've never heard of a need to beef up the t-case cross member.
Independent4x.com sells beefed up tie rods and other Isuzu off-road parts.

 

[Jeepj667]

Also check out rocky-road.com. another local company that makes sliders and sells ARB equipment for Isuzu's

 

[Pike2350]

Thanks, it was a fun run well have to do it again some time. I might even have time then to run constrictor. And yes, I did like Steve's rig. So how much lift would be enough for 33's? Just 3-4"? And what kind of lockers would be the recommended type to put on? Arb, elockers, manual, etc.? And what is the difficulty of DIY (do it yourself) for that kind of project? In regards to transportation, I have my bike or my long board to ride, so that's no issue for me. I'm just wondering if I would have to get specialized tools for it.

For 33's you don't need any lift really. I would still put one on, but the Trooper will fit a 33 on there stock with minor trimming....I've known a few guys that have done that. I know of a few that have also ran 35's on a small 3" lift. As for lockers, you are limited to ARB and Aussie and someone said. That rear axle is your "saving grace" in some ways, but also a drawback in others. It's really strong...almost up to a D60 in terms of strength and axle size...the problem is that it's limited in gear selection and locker selection. Gearing, you can search and find some 4.77's if you upgrade tire sizes....they were available for Trooper's 12bolt axle and the front 10bolt. They came in only a few vehicles stock though, so they aren't the easiest to find. I would get some manual hubs for the front end to save wear and tear on the CV's. Superwinch is possible, but I believe the pre 96 can get Warn. My Rodeo which was a 97 couldn't get a Warn that fit. There is also Aisin hubs that are strong.

As stated, the lift is really easy. Just get longer coils....as was said OME 2919(new part # that comes as a pair) is popular, but so are 2929 if you carry more gear and weight in the back. You could also start out with the 2919 and add spacers if it settled a little too much. The front end all you have to do is crank the torsion bars. You can go as high as 4" and can help get it back into alignment specs by flipping the balljoint to the underside of the control arm. A lot of guys will also add a small bj spacer to help. I did this on my Rodeo and have had no issues. The weak spots on these trucks are the CV's and tie rods. You can do as suggested and get the Independent4x.com HD tie rods...I have them on my Rodeo and they are BEEFY. As for CV, getting manual hubs will help in multiple ways....1st it will help the daily wear on the CV's and components by not having them spin when not engaged...this mainly saves the CV boots after you crank the torsion bars because the angle of the CV tends to pinch the boot and will tear it over time, and sooner then later if you don't have the hubs. Some guys have done a DIY diff drop in the front to also help with CV angle. Tie rods are the first major weak spot...but with careful driving you can go quite a long way on the stockers. I made it wheeling a solid 6 years with my stock tie rods and CV's before I finally broke a tie rod on Steel Bender. To this day it's been the only breakage I've had wheelling...and I've wheeled a fair amount in Moab, Colorado, AF Canyon, etc.

I would highly recommend getting rock sliders as body damage is crappy and somewhat easy to avoid...at least on the rocker part. Front/rear bumpers are more difficult. Calmini did a run of some really nice rear bumpers for the Trooper, but don't make it anymore. You may be able to find one used on the Planet, but it's not likely. Front you can get an ARB or have one custom made.

It's fun having a different truck....I like Jeeps and all, but there is something to be said about having a unique vehicle on the trail...just be prepared to learn to make things work.

Good luck with the Trooper...I'm sure you'll have fun with it.

 

[Pike2350]

ok, and would i need to fab the transfer case cross member, or is there somewhere i can buy one? same for the tie rods.

I've never heard of the tcase crossmember being an issue.....i've wheeled with A LOT of guys that run these things...attended multiple Moab Zu's and was/am online in the Isuzu specific forums and haven't heard this being an issue. As for buying one...I guess you could be a Calmini one...but I've heard bad things about them...mainly being that it is right in the way of changing your oil so it sprays all over....in fact a lot of people that bought the Calmini kit ended up swapping out the crossmember for the stock one because of it.

 

[sixstringsteve]

I've had bad luck with rocky road outfitters. Cruiser outfitters, on the other hand, are top notch. That's where I get almost all my parts. Kurt, the owner, is on RME. Username cruiseroutfit.

 

[Spork]

I don't think I'm using the right term, it is a skid plate that I am referring to it is made of 1/8 inch steel and if you high center you will be resting on it. I went with the 2929 springs and I think the rear is still plenty soft. I got mine from Cruiseroutfitters with shocks, (wish I would have done the firmer shocks).

 

[THSDragoon]

awesome. i will look him up, and see if i can get what i need. next step, finding employment to purchase parts.