School Me on CJ7

[Bucking Bronco]

I have a guy who wants to trade me a 1986 CJ7 for a sand rail that I have. But I don’t know a lot about jeeps.

He claims no rust; it has a hard top, 120000 miles, and a 4 speed manual.

What should I look far as far as common problems?

And for a vague question what are some general prices that these sell for. Assuming its in an overall good condition and it is mechanically sound and free of rust but other then that basically stock.

Thanks

 

[Jay5.9L]

You should have looked in my garage at my '86 CJ-7 when you were over

1986 was the last year before the YJs came out. It could have had a D44 in the back vs. the AMC20 that most later years CJ got. The front should be a D30 along with a D300 xfer case. If it is truely rust free and in good condition I think it would be in the 3-5K range depending on any after market parts etc.

When looking a Jeep over pay close attention for any rust under the carpet on the floor boards, under the roll bar, near the leaf spring hangers, etc. The frame by that time is boxed (well 2 "C" channels welded together) so frame cracks are not very common.

Any other questions??

 

[Bucking Bronco]

You should have looked in my garage at my '86 CJ-7 when you were over

I was thinking the same thing. He just called me today I am headed out later today to look at it he is throwing in some incentives to do the trade.

It is off of 12700 S. and 1400 E. would you be interested in coming with me to look at it. It probably wont be till around 6:00

 

[Cherokeester]

Couple of things to find out. If it is an 86, it might have a dana 44 rear which would be a plus. You also need to know what engine it has. Check for, rusty frame and repairs, rusty floor boards, rust in the wheel wells and back part of frame where spring mounts are located. See if the 4spd is an SR4 or T-176. (SR4 is less desirable). Is it stock height or does it have a lift? If it is lifted, what springs were used etc. See if the gauges work, many cj's have problems with gas, oil and temp gauges because of faulty grounds on the back of the speedo. As far as value, gotta see it first. Check ebay and local ads for ideas.
I hope it works out for you.

 

[Jay5.9L]

Sure but I won't be in the area until about 7 ish. I can try to make it out there sooner. Give me a call

 

[Houndoc]

Since we are on the topic, how about expanding the discussion into plusses/concerns/needed upgrades to turn a CJ into a good trail rig (say, running 33-35s, one locker).

 

[Jay5.9L]

Stock axles will be ok with 33's, marginal with 35's
SOA should net you about 5"s of lift and should fit 35's
For 33"s a nice 3-4" SUA works good.
1" body lift are ok, 2" looks nasty (ask how I know)
TJ fender flare conversion nets you a lot of clearance especially in the back.
Throw a Detroit in the back (and 1 pc shafts if its a AMC20), gears and you are on your way.

Of course we are taking about a 20 year old or older jeep so your results may vary. The old 4.2L engine is a work horse with good low end torque. The carb and emissions can be a PITA. Steering will normally be worn and loose so upgrades are always a good idea. This holds true for the brakes as well.

 

[Bucking Bronco]

Since we are on the topic, how about expanding the discussion into plusses/concerns/needed upgrades to turn a CJ into a good trail rig (say, running 33-35s, one locker).

I would like to know also just in case I get it.

 

[Jay5.9L]

1982 was the first year of the wide track axles.
Some 1986 CJ7s got the D44 instead of the AMC20 rear since they were running out.
The CJ5 has a wheel base about 84"s, Cj7/yj/tj are about 93"s.
The CJ8 (scrambler) comes in at 103" and the CJ6 is about the same (not sure on the exact length) Both are rare and can be expensive.

I'll stop puking up jeep history now.

 

[Houndoc]

I'll stop puking up jeep history now.

hey, glad someone knows it.

 

[Cherokeester]

I have run 35's on my Cj7 for quite some time now. You have to upgrade the AMC 20 with one piece axles. That should be the first thing you do. I have Detroits front and rear and they are holding up fine. As far as lifts, the RE extreme duty imo is the only way to go. It will lift you about 4" then add a 1" body lift and 35 12.5 15's will fit with minor rubbing. You will probably want wheel spacers on the narrow track axles as well. If you run that much lift you will need a t-case lowering kit to make your driveshaft angles happy. The 1980 Dana 300 has a shorter output shaft which is more desirable.
You will also need longer brake lines and I recommend the Teral 4-1 t-case kit. All these mods make for a pretty decent trail rig.