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School me on Toy High-Steer...please

SLC97SR5

SLC97SR5

IDIesel
Location
Davis County
The front end on the old '84 is starting to wander and becoming less precise. I realize it may be the original damper and it probably is the rod-ends.

Rather than replace stock stuff with stock stuff what do you think about high-steer?

How is the on-road ride/feel?
Does the steering wheel center nicely?
Is everything tight and precise?
With the TG kit the only additional item is the IFS box, is this correct?
How well does it take and hold alignment, will say, Burt Brothers or Les Schwab touch it?

Because I don't know what the future holds for the '84...ie: Secondary DD or dedicated trail rig, where is the money best spent? New stock components from NAPA or the TG kit?
 
Rot Box

Rot Box

Diesel and Dust
Supporting Member
Location
Smithfield Utah
Hy-steer is better in every way imaginable! It is seriously in the top 5 best things ever invented for Toyota 4x4's imo ;) Safer, stronger, and simpler....

Yes you will need a 86-95 steering box, but they are easy to find for well under $100. Also any shop should be able to align a Hy-steer setup without any trouble.
 
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L

leorn

reset
Location
Roy
I would have the arms modified for 1 ton TRE. Make sure you get a heavy duty tie rod and drag link with the kit that is also set up for the 1 ton ends.
 
cruiseroutfit

cruiseroutfit

Cruizah!
Moderator
Vendor
Location
Sandy, Ut
leorn said:
I would have the arms modified for 1 ton TRE. Make sure you get a heavy duty tie rod and drag link with the kit that is also set up for the 1 ton ends.
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Most (all?) of the ones I listed above are using the 80 Series TRE's, alot stronger than the OE mini stuff and plenty heavy-duty, can't say I've seen one fail yet. Nothing wrong with 1 ton stuff (4x4labs.com is using it on their hi-steer kits), but then you have to get creative at the pitman arm. Reaming is easy, if you have the ream ;), the 80 stuff is bolt on as it has the same taper/diameter at the pitman as the OE stuff.
 
BCGPER

BCGPER

Starting Another Thread
Location
Sunny Arizona
I ran the 80 ends with no issues at all. While you're doing it, consider hydo assist as well. That's probably the best single improvement I did. A little extra cost, but money well spent.

Even if you don't go with it now, at least port your steering box before you install it so you can install Hydro in the future (sooner or later you will).
 
SAMI

SAMI

Formerly Beardy McGee
Location
SLC, UT
SLC97SR5 said:
Because I don't know what the future holds for the '84...ie: Secondary DD or dedicated trail rig, where is the money best spent? New stock components from NAPA or the TG kit?
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it's easy to keep it DD and have it be very capable. Hi-steer, hydro asst., 35's - or 37's w/ 3" lift with trimming would be plenty BA to drive the streets and murder the trails. Keep it low, with big tires..

DD or "Dedicated trail rig", i think Hi-steer is a must either way..

-Jason
 
hammerhead

hammerhead

Junkyard Dog
Location
Southern Utah
I agree with above statements. Hi-steer is one of the best improvements you can make to a lifted Toy-mini. Have the new steering box ported for assist while you have it in your hands so it is ready when you go with a ram...
 
L

leorn

reset
Location
Roy
cruiseroutfit said:
Most (all?) of the ones I listed above are using the 80 Series TRE's, alot stronger than the OE mini stuff and plenty heavy-duty, can't say I've seen one fail yet. Nothing wrong with 1 ton stuff (4x4labs.com is using it on their hi-steer kits), but then you have to get creative at the pitman arm. Reaming is easy, if you have the ream ;), the 80 stuff is bolt on as it has the same taper/diameter at the pitman as the OE stuff.
Click to expand...

I agree that 80 series seem to hold up well. For price and availability I like the 1-ton stuff. More effort/ cost up front, more likely to be available when you need it.

Just to throw a wrench in the thread FROR has the tie rod below the leafs on their ftoy. They did this to get a little more uptravel. For 99.9% of people this is not something that is needed. I'm not sure how it would handle on the street, but I thought it was interesting to say the least. http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showpost.php?p=6968593&postcount=211
 
L

leorn

reset
Location
Roy
Just make sure you can fit a pitman arm and TRE between your spring and frame. In a stock configuration the torque arm gives decent street manners, but stock steering still limits articulation.

Don't forget to sell your old push-pull steering box on ebay. mine brought $50.
 
Rot Box

Rot Box

Diesel and Dust
Supporting Member
Location
Smithfield Utah
SLC97SR5 said:
Any input on this?

It seems folks don't really see a need to install hi-steer on stock junk so I could not find any setups or info on it.
Click to expand...

With a typical hy-steer setup you'll need over a 2.5" lift and a flat pitman arm depending on the year of your truck--the later the year the more lift you'll need...

Do you want to keep the stock fronts? If so I'll try to dig up a link (can't remember the name now :confused:) for the company that makes a stout cross-over setup that will work with no or little lift.
 
SLC97SR5

SLC97SR5

IDIesel
Location
Davis County
I bought the Marlin setup sans pitman arm from suisuki. If I have too lift it I will but I was hoping to keep it low with 0" lift and work some springs and shackels...30's really dont need much room! I'll figure something out.

Any IFS PS boxes?
 
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