Should I install an electrical sub panel or expand my existing?
- Thread starter nnnnnate
- Start date
gijohn40
too poor to wheel... :(
- Location
- Layton, Utah
stop going to lowes... they never have anything that you need... go to home depot they carry these there....
My final part came in today and I was able to get things finalized on the sub panel. I am happy to report everything worked as I had hoped; the house didn't burn down and I'm not writing this from the ER. I just wanted to thank you guys for giving me the direction and feedback I needed to make this happen. I know I didn't build a wicked buggy from toothpicks and paper clips but I am really appreciative for the help I got to be able to do a project like this. I only hope that I'm be able to give back in a similar manner in the future.
That said, I was also able to lay my first two inches of bead with my 220 welder. Its not pretty but I'm happy with the first attempt.
That said, I was also able to lay my first two inches of bead with my 220 welder. Its not pretty but I'm happy with the first attempt.
cjncustoms
Well-Known Member
- Location
- West jordan
You also need to run a ground from the ground bar to that green ground screw in the left side of the panel. That way the actual panel is grounded as well. Since both the ground and neutral buss seem to be insulated from the can...
gijohn40
too poor to wheel... :(
- Location
- Layton, Utah
the bar that goes under the buss and is insulated is not connected to the can at all... it is the common bar and all it does is connect both the side lugs together for the common. that piece that you bought is what will ground the box to the other ground bars.
As my house is getting closer to being finished I've been thinking about garage wiring which has led to a few questions.
I have a garage bay that is earmarked for my tools and projects, it is 28' deep by about 13' wide. The garage is sheetrocked, taped and mudded, so all of the wiring will go in conduit. There is an installed 100 amp sub panel on the wall of the work bay but nothing has been run from it. I have a lot more tools including tools that require 220 since I last did electrical which led to the creation of this thread. I need to get some of this installed pretty quick but other portions are likely to go in down the road or at least after we get settled in. I do like to try and plan ahead though so I don't have to re-do work. I'll try and list out what I'm wanting to put in and then highlight some questions when I get to them.
220
welder 6/2 copper with 50 amp breaker, nema 6-50 outlet
(4 outlets) misc woodworking 10/2 copper with 30 amp breakers, nema 6-15 outlets
- table saw*, jointer*, planer, drill press*, dust collection*
(*tools that either can run on 220 or require it that I already own)
110
double gang box every 4', 2 circuits to each double gang box
switched outlets in ceiling for ambient air cleaner
switched receptacles for led shop lights
(I already have a gas line and an electrical in place for a garage heater)
Master shut off switch to keep the kid from turning on the tools while I'm out of the shop.
Questions:
- Is there any reason I should use THHN over Romex which is cheaper as long as I can get it in the right wire gauge?
- For the woodworking 220 I plan to have at least 2 circuits because I only expect to run 2 items at the same time, the dust collector and the tool creating the dust. Is there any reason to put each outlet on its own circuit or can I team them up and save some wire?
- I should probably just flip the breakers when I finish up since the box is convenient, are there other types of master shut off switches for this type of thing?
- Does anything look out of place on my list above? Anything I should be considering?
Thanks for any thoughts or tips about this stuff.
I have a garage bay that is earmarked for my tools and projects, it is 28' deep by about 13' wide. The garage is sheetrocked, taped and mudded, so all of the wiring will go in conduit. There is an installed 100 amp sub panel on the wall of the work bay but nothing has been run from it. I have a lot more tools including tools that require 220 since I last did electrical which led to the creation of this thread. I need to get some of this installed pretty quick but other portions are likely to go in down the road or at least after we get settled in. I do like to try and plan ahead though so I don't have to re-do work. I'll try and list out what I'm wanting to put in and then highlight some questions when I get to them.
220
welder 6/2 copper with 50 amp breaker, nema 6-50 outlet
(4 outlets) misc woodworking 10/2 copper with 30 amp breakers, nema 6-15 outlets
- table saw*, jointer*, planer, drill press*, dust collection*
(*tools that either can run on 220 or require it that I already own)
110
double gang box every 4', 2 circuits to each double gang box
switched outlets in ceiling for ambient air cleaner
switched receptacles for led shop lights
(I already have a gas line and an electrical in place for a garage heater)
Master shut off switch to keep the kid from turning on the tools while I'm out of the shop.
Questions:
- Is there any reason I should use THHN over Romex which is cheaper as long as I can get it in the right wire gauge?
- For the woodworking 220 I plan to have at least 2 circuits because I only expect to run 2 items at the same time, the dust collector and the tool creating the dust. Is there any reason to put each outlet on its own circuit or can I team them up and save some wire?
- I should probably just flip the breakers when I finish up since the box is convenient, are there other types of master shut off switches for this type of thing?
- Does anything look out of place on my list above? Anything I should be considering?
Thanks for any thoughts or tips about this stuff.
- Location
- SPANISH FORK, UTAH
I use the breakers as master shutoffs, it’s the best way to insure kids from playing with machines. Kids are usually scared of breakers. You need to THHN in any conduit per code, running a nomex can create extra heat in the wire.
So the wall the breaker box is on is a shear wall so it's studs/plywood/sheetrock. I wanted to run the electrical before the sheetrock and insulation went up but wasn't allowed to for inspection reasons and the electricians didn't want to be liable for my work. My GC suggested I consider stubbing out the wall the width of a 2x4 which would allow me to have them recessed. That would add a lot of cost though at 26' long by 10' tall.
There are 2 lights that are controlled independent of the sub panel. I can keep the shop lights separate though and just not turn flip that one when shop time is over.
I'll try and post up some pics of the garage later today.
There are 2 lights that are controlled independent of the sub panel. I can keep the shop lights separate though and just not turn flip that one when shop time is over.
I'll try and post up some pics of the garage later today.
This is my bay. I'm not sure if you can tell from the picture but the sub panel isn't inset to the wall and it sticks out from the sheet rock.
This picture gives a bit more perspective of the garage situation. There is a side entry double door on the left and then two 9' wide single doors that enter straight from the street. There is a walkway from the left to the right side if that wasn't obvious.
I guess I screwed up when the walls were bare and I should have ran conduit in the walls to make hiding all of this easier now. There is a woodworking youtuber named *Frank Howarth that built a shop and finished the walls with plywood. He made the last 12" or so a separate strip so that he could remove it and get to the wiring as needed. I had asked about doing the same here but was told I couldn't because it was a sheer wall and it needed to be solid for strength and also that it needed to be sheetrock for fire rating.
*Frank has some great videos and does a really good job in production. My favorite thing he adds to a lot of his videos is stop motion which is pretty impressive.
This picture gives a bit more perspective of the garage situation. There is a side entry double door on the left and then two 9' wide single doors that enter straight from the street. There is a walkway from the left to the right side if that wasn't obvious.
I guess I screwed up when the walls were bare and I should have ran conduit in the walls to make hiding all of this easier now. There is a woodworking youtuber named *Frank Howarth that built a shop and finished the walls with plywood. He made the last 12" or so a separate strip so that he could remove it and get to the wiring as needed. I had asked about doing the same here but was told I couldn't because it was a sheer wall and it needed to be solid for strength and also that it needed to be sheetrock for fire rating.
*Frank has some great videos and does a really good job in production. My favorite thing he adds to a lot of his videos is stop motion which is pretty impressive.