Seven
Active Member
- Location
- Ogden southside
Finally finished my UDS(ugly drum smoker) Now I got to decide what to try first.
Show Us Your PROJECTS!
- Thread starter MikeGyver
- Start date
A little while ago I threw together a simple adjustable and regulated electronic water pump controller for mt tig welder's water cooled torch. This was an old existing high power pwm controller I made that was just laying around. It'll switch about a kilowatt at 14 volts or so (around 70 amps), and for this project it'll be running about 15 watts lol
I had just been giving the 12volt water pump something like 3.5volts in order for it to make 50ish psi, the problem is the pressure would vary a bit as water temp changed and whatnot since there was no closed loop control.
This new system uses a cheap 0-100psi pressure sensor on the pump outlet and adjusts the PWM (or drive power) of the mosfet to maintain a desired pressure set point. The set point is adjustable from 0-100psi using the potentiometer. Pump is run at full power upon initial startup to quickly achieve the desired set pressure, then it's ramped down to a less aggressive value as it's maintaining pressure.
This system is very efficient; it uses like 15 watts to maintain 60psi. There is no return line or other wasted energy. Pump life is also maximized because it's only being driven at small percentage of it's rated power and motor RPM in order to maintain the desired pressure; this also makes it much quieter.
I plan on adding a temperature sensor to the torch outlet so that a very low (and quiet) coolant flow can be maintained until heating is sensed, then the pump will ramp up to the working set pressure and return to idle once cooled. The battery and whole setup is temporary until i can make a dedicated circuit for it.
blah blah blah, anyway...
[video=youtube_share;JmQp2EVOmt0]http://youtu.be/JmQp2EVOmt0[/video]
I had just been giving the 12volt water pump something like 3.5volts in order for it to make 50ish psi, the problem is the pressure would vary a bit as water temp changed and whatnot since there was no closed loop control.
This new system uses a cheap 0-100psi pressure sensor on the pump outlet and adjusts the PWM (or drive power) of the mosfet to maintain a desired pressure set point. The set point is adjustable from 0-100psi using the potentiometer. Pump is run at full power upon initial startup to quickly achieve the desired set pressure, then it's ramped down to a less aggressive value as it's maintaining pressure.
This system is very efficient; it uses like 15 watts to maintain 60psi. There is no return line or other wasted energy. Pump life is also maximized because it's only being driven at small percentage of it's rated power and motor RPM in order to maintain the desired pressure; this also makes it much quieter.
I plan on adding a temperature sensor to the torch outlet so that a very low (and quiet) coolant flow can be maintained until heating is sensed, then the pump will ramp up to the working set pressure and return to idle once cooled. The battery and whole setup is temporary until i can make a dedicated circuit for it.
blah blah blah, anyway...
[video=youtube_share;JmQp2EVOmt0]http://youtu.be/JmQp2EVOmt0[/video]
Last edited:
BCGPER
Starting Another Thread
- Location
- Sunny Arizona
BCGPER
Starting Another Thread
- Location
- Sunny Arizona
Here's a little motor controller I just built for an automotive shop. Their brake rotor turning lathe lost it's adjustable speed motor controller that moves the cutting tip across the face of the rotor. It's an obscure part and is no longer available, so they just had me build a new one.. plus the original controller was a terrible, nonsensical design anyway.
Mosfet switches at 20khz to make it inaudible. Simple 0-100% duty cycle PWM.
All hooked up, works better than the original one.
Mosfet switches at 20khz to make it inaudible. Simple 0-100% duty cycle PWM.
All hooked up, works better than the original one.
RogueJeepr
Here!
- Location
- Utah
New hatch for the TD is built . Waiting on parts to finish after X-mas.
View attachment 96105
View attachment 96105
Skylinerider
Wandering the desert
- Location
- Ephraim
It's a bit different from what everyone has been posting, but I've been trying my hand at making soap:
![WP_20141218_001[1].jpg](https://www.rme4x4.com/data/attachments/57/57532-a46d90fc3e0d46aff5db802a72c7c806.jpg "WP_20141218_001[1].jpg")
- Location
- West Jordan
^^^Awesome^^^
Skylinerider
Wandering the desert
- Location
- Ephraim
you're going to need this
That's awesome! I'd totally make some with that!
- Location
- Draper, UT
Nice..
I need a lathe...
I need a lathe...
Nice tool mod. I just zip a bolt in with my small impact driver to guarantee that it's lined up and flat, then tack.
Here's a couple tips, grind off the mill scale when you're tig welding. That plate has some seriously thick scale that will sputter and pop and instantly screw up your tungsten's tip. You could also see if the laser/plasma cutter has a time saver machine that will grind it off for you, or have them cut it out of millscale-free HRPO material (hot rolled, pickled, and oiled). And when you're welding grade5/8 hardware soak the parts in muriatic acid for 30 seconds to completely remove the zinc galvanizing and make it tig weldable without massive sputtering and popping and fuming, or just use stainless hardware.
Here's a couple tips, grind off the mill scale when you're tig welding. That plate has some seriously thick scale that will sputter and pop and instantly screw up your tungsten's tip. You could also see if the laser/plasma cutter has a time saver machine that will grind it off for you, or have them cut it out of millscale-free HRPO material (hot rolled, pickled, and oiled). And when you're welding grade5/8 hardware soak the parts in muriatic acid for 30 seconds to completely remove the zinc galvanizing and make it tig weldable without massive sputtering and popping and fuming, or just use stainless hardware.
Pike2350
Registered User
- Location
- Salt Lake City
I finally finished the bathroom completely, but still have work to do in the backstairs and hall closet...but it's all usable, so it's not nearly as important at this point. Here is how it all turned out.
Everything worked out as I planned....the toilet area, which I was worried was going to be too tight is fine.....I did put a round bowl toilet in to save room, and could've gotten away with an elongated bowl if I really wanted to....it's a little tight in the room with the cabinet, but didn't want to do a pedestal for storage...it's not bad, but not as roomy as I had hoped. The only thing I had to readjust was the cut out for the medicine cabinet. I made all my measurements for it off the floor, and didn't take into account the light...and there was too much wall between the light and the cabinet....not to mention the faucet was taller then expected...so moving it up 3" made it perfet.
After a little break, and time to work on my truck and get it ready (hopefully) I will continue on the backstairs in a few weekends.
Everything worked out as I planned....the toilet area, which I was worried was going to be too tight is fine.....I did put a round bowl toilet in to save room, and could've gotten away with an elongated bowl if I really wanted to....it's a little tight in the room with the cabinet, but didn't want to do a pedestal for storage...it's not bad, but not as roomy as I had hoped. The only thing I had to readjust was the cut out for the medicine cabinet. I made all my measurements for it off the floor, and didn't take into account the light...and there was too much wall between the light and the cabinet....not to mention the faucet was taller then expected...so moving it up 3" made it perfet.
After a little break, and time to work on my truck and get it ready (hopefully) I will continue on the backstairs in a few weekends.
Pike2350
Registered User
- Location
- Salt Lake City
That combo is just stock pieces from Home Depot. The granite came with the sink attached and the backsplash for $200. The cabinet was $300 I think (don't recall...I bought all that stuff almost a year ago)
If it's a standard vanity size Home Depot/Lowe's will have predone stone counter tops. Standard dimensions are 24" 30" 36" 48" or 60" They may not stock the 60" stuff, but should have the other 4 (21" is also the standard depth for a bathroom vanity) The measurements on the top will be 1" larger...so mine was a 37" x 22" top for a 36" x 21" vanity.
I need to replace some hand rails that I removed and tossed when I first moved in. I want to use the shaped wood rather than just plain circle (like this.) I plan to make returns on the ends to terminate everything to the wall. Is it best to cut the main pieces to length then miter the ends and mount it all before cutting and attaching the returns? Any tricks for these?
I'm kinda bummed because when I finished the basement I put 6 light switches on the outside wall right where the rail ought to go so I'm going to have to put the rail on the inside. The upstairs still has the indents where the rail was previously hung despite my efforts to mud them away so they are going on the outside wall. Wish the rails would match but not going to stress it too much.
I'm kinda bummed because when I finished the basement I put 6 light switches on the outside wall right where the rail ought to go so I'm going to have to put the rail on the inside. The upstairs still has the indents where the rail was previously hung despite my efforts to mud them away so they are going on the outside wall. Wish the rails would match but not going to stress it too much.
- Location
- The Village of Kay
You can do it however you want. Whatever is easiest for you is the way you should do it. If I were to do it, I would return to the wall before installation to make installation easier.
airmanwilliams
Well-Known Member
- Location
- Provo, Utah
My project for the last few weeks at Summit Machine has been threading tubing adapters. Very tedious and makes me want to never thread another thing EVER ugh. Another project I have for home stuff that just arrived today is 2,000 orings I have to pair up and bag. Not sure whey I do this to my self.
Attachments
- Location
- West Haven, UT
I needed a special kind of vice grip so I made my own starting with a HF one.. I'll let the pics speak for themselves (sorry if they are huge)
Worked awesomely and I should be able to use it in the future on up to 3/4" nuts.
Nice job. Like the saying goes, "necessity is the mother of all inventions". Many times the smallest job can be made easier and neater with a "special tool".
Mike.