Sixstringsteve's 2003 Mitsubishi Montero Non-Build Thread
- Thread starter sixstringsteve
- Start date
- Location
- Riverton, UT
The first hydraulic I remember was the French Citroen sedan in the Late 50's.
jeep-N-montero
Formerly black_ZJ
- Location
- Bountiful
We are talking about a Montero.
sixstringsteve
Well-Known Member
- Location
- UT
New issue today: fuel gauge is good sometimes, off other times (a lot like the temp gauge). I'll have to do a little research on this as well.
sixstringsteve
Well-Known Member
- Location
- UT
From a Montero expert on expo:
I disagree about the skids. The Montero needs them more than any other vehicle I've owned. Especially, if you have the rear heater. There are coolant lines run from the front / rear. I had a stick snag one of those lines beside the transmission and caused it to lose over a gallon of coolant and overheat. The transmission and oil pan are extremely exposed. Maybe you won't have trouble on gravel roads but mine is used on trails.
Montero requires more maintenance than most Toyotas. For instance, timing belt service internal. Toyota 4runner/Tacoma 4.0L has a chain with 300k service interval. The 3.4L has a belt with non-interference motor and I've seen several run the factory belts past 150k.
However, the Montero offers much more in many areas... Much better cargo capacity, excellent ride, exceptional driving position (huge factor) and visibility, fantastic transmission, smooth reving motor, nice materials and construction quality. Not to mention they are nearly half the cost of a comparable 4runner or Land Cruiser.
If you expect the Montero to be perfect then you will be disappointed. It will cost more than a Toyota for maintenance. Don't put crap parts or neglect it then act surprised that it has issues. I found the motor incredibly simple to work on. Just finished rebuilding the heads and replacing nearly every possible part on mine. It is a well engineered motor; you do need proper manuals and take your time.
Remember the factory rated MPG is 13 city / 18 highway. Getting 16 mpg is very good. Expecting to get 20mpg city simply will never happen. However, driven carefully... I achieved 21mpg highway on the last 2,300 mile expedition fully loaded with 255/85s, lifted, arb bumper, skids, sliders, etc... That was 100% highway driven 60-65mph on premium fuel. So it is possible but just be realistic. My average city mixed driving is 15mpg.
I disagree about the skids. The Montero needs them more than any other vehicle I've owned. Especially, if you have the rear heater. There are coolant lines run from the front / rear. I had a stick snag one of those lines beside the transmission and caused it to lose over a gallon of coolant and overheat. The transmission and oil pan are extremely exposed. Maybe you won't have trouble on gravel roads but mine is used on trails.
Montero requires more maintenance than most Toyotas. For instance, timing belt service internal. Toyota 4runner/Tacoma 4.0L has a chain with 300k service interval. The 3.4L has a belt with non-interference motor and I've seen several run the factory belts past 150k.
However, the Montero offers much more in many areas... Much better cargo capacity, excellent ride, exceptional driving position (huge factor) and visibility, fantastic transmission, smooth reving motor, nice materials and construction quality. Not to mention they are nearly half the cost of a comparable 4runner or Land Cruiser.
If you expect the Montero to be perfect then you will be disappointed. It will cost more than a Toyota for maintenance. Don't put crap parts or neglect it then act surprised that it has issues. I found the motor incredibly simple to work on. Just finished rebuilding the heads and replacing nearly every possible part on mine. It is a well engineered motor; you do need proper manuals and take your time.
Remember the factory rated MPG is 13 city / 18 highway. Getting 16 mpg is very good. Expecting to get 20mpg city simply will never happen. However, driven carefully... I achieved 21mpg highway on the last 2,300 mile expedition fully loaded with 255/85s, lifted, arb bumper, skids, sliders, etc... That was 100% highway driven 60-65mph on premium fuel. So it is possible but just be realistic. My average city mixed driving is 15mpg.
We love our 02 Monty. Has the same temp gauge problem. I have researched it and come to the conclusion that an aftermarket gauge is the way to go. Not many successful attempts at diy fixes, and through a dealer it's a ridiculous process. Ours had just had the timing belt, plugs, water pump, and a few other things changed, and it's been super reliable. I've only taken it off road once and I was amazed at how it did.
sixstringsteve
Well-Known Member
- Location
- UT
I'd be happy to take a stab at fixing your temp gauge, since it's broken anyway.
How many miles are on your monty and how many have you put on it?
How many miles are on your monty and how many have you put on it?
sixstringsteve
Well-Known Member
- Location
- UT
Here are a few notes I've found about the fuel sending unit. From here: http://www.justanswer.com/mitsubishi/749nz-mitsubishi-montero-location-fuel-gauge.html
The fuel sending unit can be accessed either by dropping the fuel tank, or much more easily by removing the second row seat and going through the access cover.
Tumble the second row seat and unbolt it from the frame so you can remove it.
Underneath feel on the carpet you should notice a lump in the carpet where the sending unit goes. Depending on the build date, you may see a slight perforation in the carpet as well.
You need to use a carpet cutter to cut a flap in the carpet to get to the access cover. There will be a metal square about 10" square with four screws holding it on. Remove the screws and pull the access cover off.
Underneath you will see the fuel tank sending unit. Unplug it and remove the three 8mm bolts holding the sending unit in, then lift the unit out of the tank. You will need to twist it slightly as you lift to get the float out. Reinstall in the same fashion to insure that the float doesn't get hung up on anything on the way in.
Please note that both the fuel pump and the sending unit both have access covers. The fuel pump cover is the one to the rear that you can access without removing the seat, the sending unit cover is the forward one that needs the seat removed.
If you do not want to cut the carpet, you will need to lower the fuel tank. Due to the size of the tank, this requires a vehicle hoist and a suitable jack to support the tank.
For what it is worth, it is considerably more work to drop the tank, you are best off cutting the carpet to access the cover.
The fuel sending unit can be accessed either by dropping the fuel tank, or much more easily by removing the second row seat and going through the access cover.
Tumble the second row seat and unbolt it from the frame so you can remove it.
Underneath feel on the carpet you should notice a lump in the carpet where the sending unit goes. Depending on the build date, you may see a slight perforation in the carpet as well.
You need to use a carpet cutter to cut a flap in the carpet to get to the access cover. There will be a metal square about 10" square with four screws holding it on. Remove the screws and pull the access cover off.
Underneath you will see the fuel tank sending unit. Unplug it and remove the three 8mm bolts holding the sending unit in, then lift the unit out of the tank. You will need to twist it slightly as you lift to get the float out. Reinstall in the same fashion to insure that the float doesn't get hung up on anything on the way in.
Please note that both the fuel pump and the sending unit both have access covers. The fuel pump cover is the one to the rear that you can access without removing the seat, the sending unit cover is the forward one that needs the seat removed.
If you do not want to cut the carpet, you will need to lower the fuel tank. Due to the size of the tank, this requires a vehicle hoist and a suitable jack to support the tank.
For what it is worth, it is considerably more work to drop the tank, you are best off cutting the carpet to access the cover.
Box Rocket
bored
- Location
- Syracuse, Utah
how does this build have 8 pages already with nothing to show for it? 
C'mon Steve, make this truck cool already.
C'mon Steve, make this truck cool already.ttora4runner
Well-Known Member
- Location
- Colorado Springs, Again
how does this build have 8 pages already with nothing to show for it?
Take out all the BS in the thread (including this post) then you'd probable have like 2 or 3 pages.
sixstringsteve
Well-Known Member
- Location
- UT
This is a non-build thread. I'm trying to keep it stock.
Last edited:
Box Rocket
bored
- Location
- Syracuse, Utah
riiiiiiiiiight.
RogueJeepr
Here!
- Location
- Utah
A brother of a friend has one of these and he ditched his running boards, blacked out the lower trim and wheels. Made it look alot better .
sixstringsteve
Well-Known Member
- Location
- UT
As my recreation changes, my vehicle needs change. I actually visit more rugged terrain than ever, I just use my legs to get over it no shred of my vehicle.
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
I think a good name would be "Para Venta"...
sixstringsteve
Well-Known Member
- Location
- UT
Se vende barrato
jentzschman
Well-Known Member
- Location
- Sandy, Utah
Awesome Steve. Glad to hear it is working well for you. Having IFS/IRS must be sweet for those fire and washboard roads. It also seems like it has good cargo capacity. That was a ton of gear loaded in the back of that baby. I saw that thread for that trip on the 15-16th. I will try and make it if I can.