Steering?

[Big John]

I am putting some 1/2 ton axles off a '76 k-5 Blazer onto a '62 International Scout, and I was wondering if anyone out there had some ideas about what i could do about the steering? Thanks

 

[bobdog]

That axle should have flattops. Machine the pass side knuckle buy steering arms and make or buy tierod and draglink.

 

[Big John]

Oh, you mean cross-over steering?

 

[brian]

........like this.......

 

[harkinoff]

Originally posted by Big John
I am putting some 1/2 ton axles off a '76 k-5 Blazer onto a '62 International Scout, and I was wondering if anyone out there had some ideas about what i could do about the steering? Thanks

do you already have the K5 axles? if not I would go with at least 3/4 ton axles and if you have money out the ears go with one ton axles

 

[Big John]

Originally posted by harkinoff


do you already have the K5 axles? if not I would go with at least 3/4 ton axles and if you have money out the ears go with one ton axles

Yeah, i already got the axles, i replaced them with 3/4 ton axles on my blazer, so i figured i'd "recycle" the 1/2 toners and put them under the scout

Also, thanks for the cross-over steering idea.

 

[Big John]

I got another question, if i use a GM power steering box, would i need to use one for a two wheel drive or four wheel drive, or does it matter?

 

[Caleb]

Originally posted by Big John
I got another question, if i use a GM power steering box, would i need to use one for a two wheel drive or four wheel drive, or does it matter?

shouldn;t matter as long as its a saginaw...if fact your scout MAY already have a saginaw box(I don tknow if IH ever used saginaws but just about everyone else has)...if it does then you wont be any better off by replacing it with the same thing...

 

[bobdog]

Originally posted by Big John
I got another question, if i use a GM power steering box, would i need to use one for a two wheel drive or four wheel drive, or does it matter?

It matters You need the two wheel drive box because the four wheel drive box is designed to push and pull on the funky drivers side steering arm GM used. The four wheel drive box will turn the pitman arm the wrong way. I do not know why you would not want to use a scout box though.

 

[bobdog]

Originally posted by harkinoff


do you already have the K5 axles? if not I would go with at least 3/4 ton axles and if you have money out the ears go with one ton axles

What is the difference between the 3/4 and 1/2 ton chevy 44s. I know the brakes are a little bigger and the 8 lug pattern but I dont think there it any difference out to the knuckles and the shafts are the same size. My 1/2 ton 44(75 K5) has 1/2" thick tubes and the ball joints are the same part #s as the 3/4 tons. The knuckles appear to be identical also.

EDIT if you are talking about the rear I see what you are saying.

 

[Hickey]

yup, that's the difference. Tube size varies alot, 1/2 ton or 3/4. ball joints were all the same, they will even fit CJ D30's, and knuckles.

 

[harkinoff]

Originally posted by bobdog


What is the difference between the 3/4 and 1/2 ton chevy 44s. I know the brakes are a little bigger and the 8 lug pattern but I dont think there it any difference out to the knuckles and the shafts are the same size. My 1/2 ton 44(75 K5) has 1/2" thick tubes and the ball joints are the same part #s as the 3/4 tons. The knuckles appear to be identical also.

EDIT if you are talking about the rear I see what you are saying.

the ones I've seen had different tube thickness,the big hub style versus the small hub style, plus I've seen that the axle shafts are necked down on the 1/2 ton and the 3/4 tons are not..other than that knuckles out, are the same, same u-joints also, correct me if I'm blowin smoke, because I've never researched this, just encountered them..

 

[bobdog]

Originally posted by harkinoff


the ones I've seen had different tube thickness,the big hub style versus the small hub style, plus I've seen that the axle shafts are necked down on the 1/2 ton and the 3/4 tons are not..other than that knuckles out, are the same, same u-joints also, correct me if I'm blowin smoke, because I've never researched this, just encountered them..

I had heard the same thing. I was really surprized when I discovered the tubes in the one I got were 1/2" the shafts are not necked down either I know that with the 10 bolt front ends there is a big difference but with the 44s I don't see any difference.

 

[Hickey]

My 3/4 ton shafts were necked down.

 

[bobdog]

Originally posted by Jeremy
My 3/4 ton shafts were necked down.

Do you just mean the relief by the splines or a neckdown like on the old 60 shafts? Mine did have the relief but I understand that it is not a strenth issue.

 

[muleskinner]

Originally posted by Big John
I got another question, if i use a GM power steering box, would i need to use one for a two wheel drive or four wheel drive, or does it matter?

Look for a 1976ish monte carlo or other chevy cars of that era. You want a 4 bolt box and the best boxes have the #76 cast into them.

 

[harkinoff]

Originally posted by bobdog


I had heard the same thing. I was really surprized when I discovered the tubes in the one I got were 1/2" the shafts are not necked down either I know that with the 10 bolt front ends there is a big difference but with the 44s I don't see any difference.

I had a big hub 44 sitting right next to a small hub 44 and their was a huge difference in weight.. the small hub 44 had the necked down inner shafts in it also, plus the tubes were way thinner, it was out of a blazer.. also I have a buddy that has a pile of 44 shafts, all of his 1/2 ton shafts are the necked down ones.. we must just have had luck with these 44's being routine in there size differences

 

[Hickey]

Originally posted by bobdog


Do you just mean the relief by the splines or a neckdown like on the old 60 shafts? Mine did have the relief but I understand that it is not a strenth issue.

right next to the splines, that is where I always broke mine, everytime.