Steve's Sidekick Build

sixstringsteve

Well-Known Member
Location
UT

BCGPER

Starting Another Thread
Location
Sunny Arizona
Steve, my two cents being a former gutless 4 Runner owner. Get your gearing in the diffs, and forget about the reduction box. They rob a bunch of power, and that's the last thing you need.

I'm not looking to spend much at all on axles, I already blew $200 on an axle that's bent.

Actually, 4.88s are too much gear. I need 4.56s since i'm going with a reduction box.
 

sixstringsteve

Well-Known Member
Location
UT
I'd need 5.71's in the diffs to get the gearing where it needs to be, and I don't want a pinion that small. On the sidekicks the only option is the gear box.
 

BCGPER

Starting Another Thread
Location
Sunny Arizona
Maybe I got lost in your post (imagine that), but I thought you were going Toyota axles?

Plenty of gear options there, and remember you're wheeling an automatic now.
 

sixstringsteve

Well-Known Member
Location
UT
yes, I am going toyota axles. The sidekicks either have 4.62s or 5.13s stock, so in order to turn 33's without a reduction box, I'll need 5.71's in the diffs.

I don't want to run 5.71's because of the small pinion, so I'm going to go with 4.56s and the 1.5 reduction box
 

TJDukit

I.Y.A.A.Y.A.S.
Location
Clearfield
I wanted to post up something in your build thread but you did say you were gonna keep the chit chat out of it or at least try and I don't have anything relevant to say for it.
 

sixstringsteve

Well-Known Member
Location
UT
haha. I'll keep this thread around for BS. After all, we wouldn't want to dissapoint SAMI and only have one thread about my build :D
 

BCGPER

Starting Another Thread
Location
Sunny Arizona
Quick, before my head explodes. What does "what the Sami comes with" have to do with Toyota?

yes, I am going toyota axles. The sidekicks either have 4.62s or 5.13s stock, so in order to turn 33's without a reduction box, I'll need 5.71's in the diffs.

I don't want to run 5.71's because of the small pinion, so I'm going to go with 4.56s and the 1.5 reduction box
 

sixstringsteve

Well-Known Member
Location
UT
I didn't mention samis.

Let's pretend I wanted to stick with my 29" tires. Since a stock sidekick has 5.13's, I'd need 5.13's in the yota axles to match stock gearing/power.


Now let's pretend I wanted to go with 33" tires. I can't gear the diffs low enough to go back to stock power. Hence the need for an undertaker. Here's a link to the undertaker. It's a box that goes between your tranny and t-case, and lowers your drive ratio by 1.5.

http://www.trailtough.com/index.php...ategory_id=46&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=53

Does it make sense now?
 
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BCGPER

Starting Another Thread
Location
Sunny Arizona
Sorry, I meant Zuki. So, both axles will be Toys? I ran 5.29's forever, never broke a pinion and it did decent on the hiway. After I stuck the second case in it, it was far better off road, but I lost a ton of power. Is the Zuk auto a 3 speed, or overdrive?

If you're looking for a driver/explorer type of rig, I'd seriously think twice about that crawler box just because of the on road power loss. If you're thinking of a future engine swap, then it's a moot point.
 

cruiseroutfit

Cruizah!
Moderator
Vendor
Location
Sandy, Ut
Chat: I saw in your build thread that your planning on April 5th for a completion date. If your really planning on HITR on April 8th, you need this thing done at least 2 weeks earlier so you can take it on a shakedown run. HITR is the last place you want to be trial driving after a big build, not only is it 350 miles to the trail head but its 100 miles of serious trail... not a place you want to be tracking down loose bolts, leaks, clearance issue, exhaust fitment, cooling issue, etc. In fact I wouldn't be breaking in brand new gears on a trail like that either, they should have a minimum of 500 'break in' miles before your out stressing them. Shoot for 3/15 so you can have two weeks to break in the gears, change fluids, re-torque and trouble shoot any minor issues that pop up.
 

sixstringsteve

Well-Known Member
Location
UT
yeah, by "done" I meant tested and tried, with no issues. Not "the last bolt tightened by april 5th." Good wisdom Kurt, thanks.
 
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sixstringsteve

Well-Known Member
Location
UT
Sorry, I meant Zuki. So, both axles will be Toys? I ran 5.29's forever, never broke a pinion and it did decent on the hiway. After I stuck the second case in it, it was far better off road, but I lost a ton of power. Is the Zuk auto a 3 speed, or overdrive?

If you're looking for a driver/explorer type of rig, I'd seriously think twice about that crawler box just because of the on road power loss. If you're thinking of a future engine swap, then it's a moot point.

Yes, both axles will be toys.

you lost power with dual cases? I didn't lose any power in my yota when I had duals. 5.29's don't scare me, but 5.71's do. I most likely wouldn't break anything, but I'd feel a lot better with a reduction box and 4.56s.

I have a 4-speed with overdrive.
 

Greg

I run a tight ship... wreck
Admin
Yes, both axles will be toys.

you lost power with dual cases? I didn't lose any power in my yota when I had duals. 5.29's don't scare me, but 5.71's do. I most likely wouldn't break anything, but I'd feel a lot better with a reduction box and 4.56s.

I have a 4-speed with overdrive.

Honestly, with a light-weight & low power Sidekick and an auto transmission, I wouldn't be concerned about the strength of 5.71's. Others have ran that gear ratio with heavier vehicles, bigger engines and bigger tires with 5.71's and they've been successful.
 

sixstringsteve

Well-Known Member
Location
UT
they're not in this build thread, that's for sure. :p


Oh wait, I forgot which thread I was in. This is the best pic I"ve got. I need to keep her 100 series away from RME so I don't get bad ideas and lift it.

IMG_0195.JPG
 

Chevycrew

Well-Known Member
Location
WVC, UT
I guess ill clutter this thread with this question.

How did you come to the conclusion 2.5" backspace wheels were needed, without trying the 4.75" ones first?
 
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