Jeep Stretch YJ "Might as well" Build

[I Lean]

Hmmm, I wonder if Carl would have a crossmember like that, that could work on a CJ frame...

Sure--that same one. Just trim to fit your narrower width.

 

[SSR]

Decided the drum brakes need to go.

Now back to the front end.

 

[SSR]

Somewhere in this time frame of the build I picked up a used JD2 tube bender with 1 1/2" and 1 3/4" dies.

 

[SSR]

I want the front axle pushed out a couple of inches, which is proving very frustrating, five things trying to occupy the same space. Now I know why people say go full hydro now and save the headache.

The Jesse Haines high steer arms put the drag link and tie rod very close to the frame at ride height. The 05+ axle diff is also right below the driver side frame rail, so I had to start notching the frame until everything cleared.

I asked ILean to make some plates that initially I was going to weld to the existing frame section, boxing in what little was left of the factory frame. This ended up not working as I hoped, so I chopped the frame at the motor mounts and used the plates alone for the new frame. Tubing out the front end would have been easier, but at this point I had never bent a piece of tube.

 

[SSR]

Made a new double shear pitman arm using the splined section of one I had laying around.

Also made a track bar with the tube bender, first peice of tube I bent.

 

[SSR]

Finally, wheels and tires!

Finished the frame in front.

 

[SSR]

Got my shocks and bent some shock hoops. Kudos to all of you that understand all this link and shock geometry. The more I learn, the more I worry about how it's going to perform when finished.

 

[I Lean]

What is your track bar made of? I'm worried about it folding up, since that's a pretty severe bend.

 

[SSR]

What is your track bar made of? I'm worried about it folding up, since that's a pretty severe bend.

It's 1 1/2" x 1/4" wall DOM. If you think I should be concerned I could add a gusset as shown, this doesn't help the tightest radius, but maybe adds a small benefit to the whole track bar.

 

[SSR]

While we're talking strength of bends, I have a question. My front is 3-linked, the upper link contacts my motor mount before full bump if I put it in the uppermost mounting hole on the axle. So am I better off dropping down to the next mounting hole and reducing axle separation 1 1/2" or, should I put a bend in the upper link so it clears the motor mount in the upper mounting hole? Link is 2"od x .250" wall.

 

[I Lean]

I have a hard time answering about the track bar strength...the material is good, but any bend is creating a spot that wants to bend more...and the more it's bent, the more it WANTS to bend, if that makes sense. I just don't know how much force it will take. You might be just fine, it might fold up. I don't think adding a gusset like you drew will help much. I think if it's going to bend, it will still bend at the other spot--with or without adding that gusset.

I wouldn't stress too much about putting a bend in the 2" .250. I'm assuming that would be a pretty minor bend anyway. You could always use a lower mounting hole at first, and add the bend later if you want to use the upper hole?

 

[SSR]

Set the tub on and threw on a couple tires to get my first glimpse of how it's going to turn out. Kids were pretty excited, up to this point it was just a frame sitting in the garage.

 

[SSR]

Started the process of thinning out the wire harnesses and merging the 5.3 and YJ harness together. Thank goodness for online resources, this would have been a nightmare without them.

 

[SSR]

I was really excited about one of my most recent purchases, an LJ hard top! I had the brilliant idea of setting the hard top on the tub to set the windshield pitch then I could start to measure for the roll cage. And this happened...

 

[Jinx]

I was really excited about one of my most recent purchases, an LJ hard top! I had the brilliant idea of setting the hard top on the tub to set the windshield pitch then I could start to measure for the roll cage. And this happened...View attachment 115668

Oh Sh!!!!!!t!

 

[Hickey]

Ugh that sucks.

 

[Bart]

Oh man, bummer about the top. I have the same issues with the track bar and think it will eventually fatigue. Not positive, but have seen many that did. Have you checked the rear driveline clearance on the iLean crossmember in the rear? I am running that same piece and didn't and had to notch it. Wish I would have mounted it 3/4" forward of where I did. Good call on the 5.3, much lighter with better power and mpg. I had to go to the truck oil pan with the one I ran in the buggy, but it was worth it.

Love the build and keep the pics coming.

 

[SSR]

Have you checked the rear driveline clearance on the iLean crossmember in the rear? I am running that same piece and didn't and had to notch it. Wish I would have mounted it 3/4" forward of where I did.

I did have to slightly modify the crossmember to clear the driveline. I kinda figured it was a result of my motor and transmission mount locations. That's interesting we both had the same issue.

 

[SSR]

I was extremely apprehensive about tackling the roll cage having only 4 tube bends under my belt in my entire tube bending career. I read forums and watched YouTube videos on the ins and outs of tube bending. I searched the internet for pictures of roll cages, trying to find one that had a design I felt I could tackle with my very limited experience. Still, I felt it would be best to let a local professional fabricator do it, both people I spoke to on the matter were very encouraging, soon I decided to try a few bends and see how it went. It turned out as well as I could have hope for on my first cage. Still need to add some gussets and such.

 

[Herzog]

Ohhh that looks damn good.