Jeep Stretch YJ "Might as well" Build

[Jinx]

Ohhh that looks damn good.

X2

 

[SSR]

X2

Thanks guys. Like I said, if I hadn't received the encouragement I never would have tried. Yet another learning at how skilled the guys that build these things are.

 

[SSR]

When I painted the cage something went very wrong. Initially the paint spray looked acceptable, but as it dried some of the paint started to wrinkle. Over a week later the paint is dry on the exterior but still wet under the surface in the wrinkled areas. Any ideas on what I did wrong?

Edit: I'm pretty confident the paint issue is a result of me applying it too heavy. The effected areas are almost exclusively around the joints, as well as a few inches out from the joint. These are the areas I would have sprayed more, trying to get coverage all the way around the joint.

 

[Herzog]

When I painted the cage something went very wrong. Initially the paint spray looked acceptable, but as it dried some of the paint started to wrinkle. Over a week later the paint is dry on the exterior but still wet under the surface in the wrinkled areas. Any ideas on what I did wrong?

There could still be an anti-corrosion layer on the tube or in the pores of the metal. I usually use a rag and some mineral spirits in a spray bottle to get rid of any thing left.

 

[SSR]

There could still be an anti-corrosion layer on the tube or in the pores of the metal. I usually use a rag and some mineral spirits in a spray bottle to get rid of any thing left.

Do you think the paint will cure on its own? It's been over a week now, but I'd rather deal with it once it cured vs. try to remove it as it is.

 

[I Lean]

Did you prime before painting? I've had similar issues when I've used mismatched primer and paint.

 

[SSR]

Did you prime before painting? I've had similar issues when I've used mismatched primer and paint.

I did, both paint and primer are Rustoleum oil base. I did custom mix the color using two Rustoleum oil base products, maybe they don't get along?

 

[SSR]

Clearanced the hood and mocked up a piece of cardboard to transfer to aluminum that will improve the body lines. At some point I would like to build in a 4" flare to give it back a finished look.

 

[Bart]

I'm guessing the paint is what Shane and Carl said, and although it may dry, it will flake or rub off later. Wow, your rig is looking amazing. Very well done.

 

[SSR]

I'm guessing the paint is what Shane and Carl said, and although it may dry, it will flake or rub off later. Wow, your rig is looking amazing. Very well done.

Thanks Bart, I have to admit I've made lots of mistakes I'm aware of (probably even more I'm unaware of). These are mostly around sequence of the build. I've had too much rework going back to fit something I should have planned for initially.

I'll need to repaint the cage. I was hoping the paint would dry to make it easier to remove with a wire wheel.

 

[SSR]

What's everyones thoughts on CO's mounted to the cage? Will this hold up long term? It's obviously not a race car, intended use is mostly crawling, but I like speed, and want to be able to have some fun through high speed sections.

 

[Agility Customs]

What's everyones thoughts on CO's mounted to the cage? Will this hold up long term? It's obviously not a race car, intended use is mostly crawling, but I like speed, and want to be able to have some fun through high speed sections.

View attachment 115686View attachment 115687

In that current configuration I am pretty sure the tubes those shocks are mounted to will bend if you ever bottom out the shocks through a high speed section.

Check out Improved Racing for the F-Body oil pan trap door. I compete in my car and it is in off camber and near vertical situations way more than a recreational rig will ever see and I havent lost oil pressure since installing the trap door baffle. - http://www.improvedracing.com/oil-p...firebird-body-racing-oil-pan-baffle-p-30.html

 

[SSR]

In that current configuration I am pretty sure the tubes those shocks are mounted to will bend if you ever bottom out the shocks through a high speed section

How would be the best way to address it? Hydraulic bump stops, brace from the c pillar, a brace to the frame in between b and c pillars, other?

 

[RockChucker]

I mounted my shocks into the cage. I used 2 strategies to ensure my mounting point won't bend. I ran a brace up to the b pillar where my harness bar is mounted, but more importantly I mounted my shocks so they can't bottom out on a big hit. Air bumps catch the jeep when both sides of the suspension compress at the same time. My shocks to fully collapse under articulation, but that is a "slow" event that doesn't stress the mount anywhere near what a bottoming event does.

 

[SSR]

Check out Improved Racing for the F-Body oil pan trap door. I compete in my car and it is in off camber and near vertical situations way more than a recreational rig will ever see and I havent lost oil pressure since installing the trap door baffle.

Thanks for the suggestion. Do you run this in the OEM cast aluminum F-body pan? Is this all you do for oil control, or do you run an accumulator as well?

 

[Agility Customs]

Thanks for the suggestion. Do you run this in the OEM cast aluminum F-body pan? Is this all you do for oil control, or do you run an accumulator as well?

just that in the stock F body pan. No accumulator.

 

[SSR]

Got my Winters shifter installed, also fabbed up a center console.

 

[Bart]

Nice console. I wish my Atlas was drivers drop and my shifters were that close.

 

[SSR]

The two harnesses are thinned and wiring routed. The 2006 LM7 5.3 fires and sounds pretty good. Such a good feeling when you hear a motor fire for the first time! I used a Walbro 255 in-tank fuel pump, Corvette fuel filter/regulator, Russel fuel lines and connections.

 

[Gawynz]

I'm really enjoying watching this build, nice work!