Subaru Outbacks

Zombie

Random Dead Guy
Location
Sandy Utah
Timely. How did you wrap the shifter and with what? I'm not a huge fan of the gold interior accents on our new wilderness.
I did wrap the top of the shifter, but I ended up not being happy with it so I stripped it after the fact.

Here's what I've got currently:
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This is where it was with the shifter wrapped:

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I had a little wrinkle on the front of the shifter tht was EXACTLY where my index finger would rest, and it annoyed the shit out of me... I'm not a very good wrapper.
The main thing I wanted to get was reduced glare from the piano black trim, and I'm there now... the shifter itself is rounded enough that it dosn't glare too bad.
Just pop out the console and wrap the trim, you'll have to take the shifter off to do it.
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Take your time, lots of heat, lots of working it into the corners. Use a high quality wrap and it'll go easier and last for years.
I think the Gold trim on the shifter would be easier than the black since it's as rounded, but I kind of like the gold color. I've got an old set of Hella Supertone horns that I'm planning to paint to match the gold and install on this outback.
I followed this video to remove my console parts:
One word of caution - in the video where he says "Don't loose the spring clip for the shifter", what he should have said was "Use a pick tool to remove the spring clip and yeet the clip into the bottom of your wireless charger hole, where you will learn that the clip isn't magnetic enough to retrieve with a magnet, and spend the next five minutes with a tiny claw grabber tool trying to get the metal clip out of the magnetic charging hole." At least, that was my experience.
 

Rot Box

Diesel and Dust
Supporting Member
Location
Smithfield Utah
Is this worthwhile to pick up and fix?

2012 Subaru Outback Limited https://classifieds.ksl.com/listing/74179419

I dunno the price isn’t that great for a car that needs that sort of repair but I could be wrong. On an Subaru the engine has to come out regardless and now is a good time to do valve adjustments, reseal the engine, spark plugs etc... which is great but it adds to the cost. That black one I had ended up needed a new head which added to the cost of repair considerably. Machine work cost and quality is another thing to consider. Head gaskets are only as good as the machine work 🤔

I’d say find one that has a clean bill of health unless you need a winter project. Just my .02
 

TurboMinivan

Still plays with cars
Location
Lehi, UT
I dunno the price isn’t that great for a car that needs that sort of repair but I could be wrong.

In the industry, we call that list price the crack pipe price.

I know I'm looking at this through a dealership lens, but KBB trade-in shows a starting figure (ie, before deductions for any obviously-needed reconditioning) at only $3550. The listed price of $4200 might be a fair deal for a private party purchase if the engine were in tip-top shape, but certainly not if the car needs a major engine-out repair.
 

Rot Box

Diesel and Dust
Supporting Member
Location
Smithfield Utah
Doing an oil change on the Subicon today.

Piece of mind using the Subaru/Tokyo Roki black filter compared to the cheap ass blue ones (Fram at first and the later unknown brand also blue filter) Subaru was providing there for a few years.

That’s if you like using oem filters…. Ymmv. On that note watch out for counterfeit filters from Amazon or eBay etc—they’re out there unfortunately and it can be hard to tell the difference.
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