Suzuki suzuki samurai drive line ange question

[str8axleguy]

suzuki samurai drive line angle question

Hey I have a 94 sami with a sky spring over. It is currently running stock springs and 4.5 inch center to center shackles. My front drive line angle is off due to the shackles and it makes the front drive line vibrate like crazy. I took off the drive line and measured the angle at the transfer case and the front pinion. The transfer case measures 96 degrees and the pinion is tipped up and measures 84 degrees. This is due to the longer shackles I guess. Does this mean I need 12 degree shims to tip the pinion back down to match the 96 degrees at the transfer case? I can get them made but seems like a lot of degree difference and was wondering if I am calculating correctly. 96-84=12? or do I take half of the 12 and use 6 degree shims? I am a little lost on this anybody that can help please do. Thanks in advance. Also am running the self aligning spring perch so I would assume that is correct.

 

[Mope]

The sami front driveshaft angles really stink from the factory. Due to the short rear shaft, they tilt the t-case back a little to help that angle out. It really makes the front one bad.

You DON'T want to use shims on the front axle to change the angle. It will mess with your steering castor, and it will become a nightmare to drive with terrible death wobble. I made a high clearance crossmember/mount for the front, and cut the factory one out (left a little stub for the t-case to mount to. I then used a DC type shaft up front, as the angle works out pretty good for that. The DC shaft has two joints at one end, and one at the other. THe pinion on the front axle almost points to the t-case. I can hit 55 mph with my hubs locked in before I get any vibrations now. Before it was terrible.

 

[str8axleguy]

I think the castor is off now due to the longer shackles. Do you know how long the stock front shackles are supposed to be from the center of the bolt to the center of the bolt. The ones on the sami measure 4.5 inches, they look long, they definately aren't stock and am thinking I need to shorten them to help the drive line and get the castor closer to normal. I may have to have the alignment checked to verify, but I am sure it's off. It seems overly sensitive on the steering and I believe that is what prob longer shackles give.

 

[Mope]

I'm not sure what length they are stock. Mine had longer ones on it when I bought it as well. You could check the castor angle with your angle finder, and you can decide if it's off or not. I'm running toyota axles and I think they are 7-9 degrees or something like that. Not sure on the sami axles.
What type of steering setup do you have? If you have a z-link or something like that, it can make the steering really sensitive. If it's out of alignment, that can cause weird characteristics as well.

Good luck.

 

[str8axleguy]

I am running a z-link for now. I am planning on replacing the springs with trail tough's two inch springs and changing to over the top steering as well. The sami had a z link on it so I am running it but plan on changing it anyway. I measured the shackles on another lifted samurai and it had 3.5 inch center shackles which makes the pinion angle better than mine but still not correct. I think I will start by shortening my shackles down from 4.5 inch centers to 3.5 inch centers to roll the pinion back down some. This may make my drive line work better. I hate to have it aligned just to change it with new springs in a couple weeks. Also think it would be smart to install the ott steering before an alignment then I will probably end up with a cv style shaft too.

 

[str8axleguy]

One more question, as far as drive line spacers, which end of the drive line are they supposed go on? Would it be better at the pinion or transfer case flange?

 

[Mope]

Most people like to put them at the t-case end because it kicks the u-joint out a little from the crossmember. It helps to keep the driveshaft from hitting it when the axle droops.

Making the shorter shackles will probably help some with the pinion angle, but I think that ultimately you'll want to get the geometry better if you want to do faster driving with the hubs locked in.

 

[str8axleguy]

shortened the shackles. I was able to get that down to just under 3.5 inches and still have enough clearance. It changed the pinion angle maybe 2 degrees, not enough to matter really. I think I am going to have to buy the lift springs and a cv type shaft to get it to work, with the current drive line I can't stand to drive it over about 25 mph. I would leave the springs alone but I need a little more room for tires anyway and don't want to have the shaft built and then lift it some more. I think I will be stopping by Tom Woods on Monday to talk about options. Thanks for the input. Any ideas on how to get the geometry better?

 

[Mope]

The way to get it perfect would be to rotate the knuckles. That is quite a bit of work however. The geometry wasn't even good from the factory in the front, so you have to customize quite a bit to make it just right. With my toyota axles, the pinion is only 3 or so degrees below pointing straight at the output of the t-case, so the DC shaft works out really well for me. (Correct geometry for a DC shaft) Just enough angle on the bottom single joint to keep the needles lubed, but it still works out nice. Like I mentioned above though, you'll have to remove the crossmember, or the driveshaft will hit it if using the DC shaft. You can get a High clearance one from rock4xfabrication.com or you can make your own pretty easily. This moves the crossmember above the driveshaft, and you cut out the factory one. You only leave enough for the t-case to bolt too.

 

[str8axleguy]

Ya that looks like what I need to do. I really don't wan't to cut and move the knuckles I think that my pinion would be pretty good for a DC shaft from what I have read. That just seems like the easier/better way to help my problem. Anyone ever run the trail tough bonz eye springs. I am thinking of going that route on the sami, the stock back springs are getting jacked already and I haven't been able to wheel it much yet, plus I could use a little more lift. Any thoughts?

 

[Mope]

I know some have run the Bonze eye, and have been pleased with them. For the better ride, and performance YJ's are really popular. They give a nicer ride, and better flex. There are lots of different kits to put them on, or you can fab up your own. You usually end up either extending the frame in the front, or running missing link shackles to accomodate the length of them.

 

[str8axleguy]

Cool thanks for the input. I am not sure which way to go yet, it seems more expensive to go yj's but better ride would be nice. How do missing links work on the street? are they still safe? I talked to Trail Tough today and they have a new double cv that doesn't hit the cross member and is good up too like 49 degrees or something crazy. It is $565 though, i might have to live with the vibration for now.

 

[zukijames]

i used to run a toyota shaft that had a cv and never had a proplem with vibration .. but i never really drive very fast in 4 wheel drive so idk