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Greg

Greg

I run a tight ship... wreck
Admin
Location
Grand Junction, CO
I want a mini split with a heat pump, myself...
but if you're pouring the slab, radiant heat in floor would be bitchen. But you need to insulate under the concrete underneath so you don't loose heat into the ground. Then a mini split for A/C!
 
P

Pile of parts

Well-Known Member
Location
South Jordan
The boiler is the expensive part of the radiant heat system. I was fortunate because my neighbor works for a company that designs and sells to the plumbers/contractors. He got me a screaming deal on everything so there was no way I was going with a different system. You can use a water heater in place of the boiler but I'm no expert on this so I really couldn't tell you much. YouTube, on the other hand, will make you an expert in no time. :rofl:

I do know this... For what cold was left after getting it running, I'm almost looking forward to next winter. Very even hear throughout the shop. Even up near the ceiling was no warmer than floor level. Unlike forced air, no real heat rise. Also, I could open my 12' x 24' door and once it was shut it was still warm. Again, unlike forced air, the heat doesn't escape in the wind. Everything in the shop absorbs the warmth and it stays that way.
Another benefit is no noise. You can't hear this running at all.

I do have another boiler that I'd make you a deal on if it would work for you. It was a little big and complex for my shop. I have a closed loop system. Depending on what you're thinking, it might work for you. I could give you the specs but you'd have to do the homework.

I didn't do anything for cooling except lots of insulation and windows I can open for a cross breeze. The shop gets some afternoon shade from the neighbors trees and my ceiling goes from about 14' to 18' at the peak. Hopefully any heat will stay up there. We'll see this summer.
 
mbryson

mbryson

.......a few dollars more
Supporting Member
Location
Bountiful, land of rocks
Pile of parts said:
...I do have another boiler that I'd make you a deal on if it would work for you. It was a little big and complex for my shop. I have a closed loop system. Depending on what you're thinking, it might work for you. I could give you the specs but you'd have to do the homework.
.....
Click to expand...


I'd be pretty interested in learning about the boiler. I'll check out the water heater versions as well.


thanks all!!!
 
4

4x4_Welder

Well-Known Member
Location
Twin Falls, ID
I like radiant heat. One thing to keep in mind, though, is that you need to keep it on for the winter, unless you're going to be out of the shop for a week or so. If you try to run it like a standard heating system where you turn it up or down at different times, it will cost a fortune to run and will almost always be uncomfortable.
When I worked at AMET in Rexburg they would turn the heat down at night, so we'd come in to a cold building, by 9-9:30 it was comfortable, but then by 11 we had the doors open to try and cool the place down. I tried explaining this concept to the manager, he didn't think I knew what I was talking about, so we all got to keep suffering.
In floor radiant heat is very efficient if you just leave the temp steady and have decent insulation.
 
mbryson

mbryson

.......a few dollars more
Supporting Member
Location
Bountiful, land of rocks
Back to this thread for utility sink discussions. Thoughts on something like this? Better options? Someone out there in the restaurant supply business?

www.ebay.com

Mustee 27F Utilatub Double Basin Double Freestanding Laundry Tray - White for sale online | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Mustee 27F Utilatub Double Basin Double Freestanding Laundry Tray - White at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!
www.ebay.com


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Not an ebay fan but I really like the price point. I've been watching to see if there's a restaurant version on KSL for quite a while and missed one or two. I'm ready for a sink, bonus points if it has the drainage tray on the side. (not sure why I want that but it sounds pretty convenient)
 
nnnnnate

nnnnnate

Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
Location
WVC, UT
I bought a sink from the restore place off 13th and had planned to just make a base for it. I looked around for the same you were looking for too and didn't have any luck on KSL.

I had trouble finding the faucet I wanted. I have h/c water plumbed but want to be able to thread on a garden hose to hook soft water for a pressure washer. I I never found anything that looked very sturdy.
 
cruiseroutfit

cruiseroutfit

Cruizah!
Moderator
Vendor
Location
Sandy, Ut
Anyone found hose and core reels they love? I'd like to ditch my extension cords and hard plumb my compressor to a reel. I know I've heard some great model suggestions here in the past?
 
jeeper

jeeper

I live my life 1 dumpster at a time
Location
So Jo, Ut
cruiseroutfit said:
Anyone found hose and core reels they love? I'd like to ditch my extension cords and hard plumb my compressor to a reel. I know I've heard some great model suggestions here in the past?
Click to expand...

I've got a Campbell Hausfeld reel that is going on about 10 years or so. Just last fall the inner connector started leaking air, and it has gotten worse this spring. All in all though for the price, I have been very happy. No cracking in the hose at all.
it does get very stiff in the cold winter, and has to have a little help to guide it back into the real. I don’t know if that is common for all reels or not.
I’m sure there are much better options for some more dollars. But this one served me well.
Campbell Hausfeld Air Hose Reel with Retractable 50 Foot Hose, 3/8 Inch ID (PA500400AV) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0081ZO8T0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_3dMREb52TAABN
 
mbryson

mbryson

.......a few dollars more
Supporting Member
Location
Bountiful, land of rocks
4x4_Welder said:
When running air, make sure you keep a fairly continuous slope to the line, and add a drain point on every drop. Unless you run a chiller air dryer, you will have moisture in the air. I like to run the whole line on a slight down slope away from the compressor, with a dedicated drain drop at the very end, and the actual air drops off the top of the pipe, so there is very little moisture getting to the tools.
Also, never use PVC. It eventually cracks and breaks, I've worked in shops that had it and when it fails it's like a shotgun with the shrapnel. It'll also kick the remaining pipe hard enough to put it through drywall.
Click to expand...



So, copper, alum, black pipe? What's the debate talking points? (I'm leaning to copper)
 
Spork

Spork

Tin Foil Hat Equipped
Location
Saratoga Springs, UT
I usually see copper or black pipe for lines, I'd do copper if it were me just because I wouldn't have to worry about rust in the lines. I've been using 3/4" schedule 40 PVC for 19 years (just occasional usage out to my garage) so my opinion probably goes along the whatever is easiest for you to run. :handlebars:
 
D

DesertRam

Active Member
Location
Southern New Mexico
PVC can become brittle, and the oil in oiled compressors can attack it and cause catastrophic failure. The pressure system engineers I work with encourage ABS if you use plastic. Of course, they really like stainless tubing, but that's probably not in the budget for many of use DIY guys.
 
Spork

Spork

Tin Foil Hat Equipped
Location
Saratoga Springs, UT
DesertRam said:
PVC can become brittle, and the oil in oiled compressors can attack it and cause catastrophic failure. The pressure system engineers I work with encourage ABS if you use plastic. Of course, they really like stainless tubing, but that's probably not in the budget for many of use DIY guys.
Click to expand...
Probably why I haven't seen any issues, running an oil-less compressor, only occasional usage and I don't have anything exposed to sunlight. If I were to do it again I'd probably do copper because I'm not doing a huge system, basically just getting the air from the compressor in my utility room, probably only 4 or 5 bends in the whole thing.
 
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