testing a pyrometer

Is there a way to test a pyrometer or probe? (like with a multimeter, so many ohms, etc) I think mine took a dump on me tonight...either that or my truck suddenly runs very cold. All google gets me is probe installation garbage.

Thanks,
Brett
 

DOSS

Poker of the Hornets Nest
Location
Suncrest
bring some water to boil and check the temp with another therm and then check the temp with your pyro.. do the same with some ice.. should give you a high low calibration..
 

I Lean

Mbryson's hairdresser
Vendor
Location
Utah
Is there a way to test a pyrometer or probe? (like with a multimeter, so many ohms, etc) I think mine took a dump on me tonight...either that or my truck suddenly runs very cold. All google gets me is probe installation garbage.

Thanks,
Brett

It doesn't get it terribly hot, but you could put the probe in water, then boil it? The gauge should read a bit over 200 degrees when boiling. :)

That's awesome for a mechanical gauge, if yours is electrical then that's hard.
 

Corban_White

Well-Known Member
Location
Payson, AZ
Use one of these:

Infrared_thermometer_AR300.jpg
 
Thanks for the replies.

I guess I should have been a little more specific: I need to test the components, not the system. When I turn the key on, the gauge goes to less than zero. I'd like to rule out the probe as the faulty component as it is the hardest to replace (due to the cable routing).
 

Chevycrew

Well-Known Member
Location
WVC, UT
If the probe reading matches the infared pyrometer, it will rule out the probe.

They are handy to have, even H.F. sells them.
 
Probe reading is less than zero....the system is not working at all. When the key is turned on, the needle points straight down and doesn't move.

Last night, it would erratically go from the actual reading to the straight down position and back, like a discontinuity in the cable or something.

I checked all the connections and the cable routing for nicks and cuts..

I don't know if the problem is in the gauge or the probe.

Tomorrow I will get AutoMeter on the phone, but I was hoping to test it before then.
 

Chevycrew

Well-Known Member
Location
WVC, UT
Oh i got ya. Sorry I wasnt thinking about not getting a reading at all. I was thinking inaccurate reading.


How about check the ohms cold, and the ohms hot, to see if there is a difference?
 

BCGPER

Starting Another Thread
Location
Sunny Arizona
Can you get to the leads going to the gauge easily? I can bring home my tester tomorrow. I'll betcha a Dew it's the RTD. Normally when they fail they either peg, or go less than zero.
 
Can you get to the leads going to the gauge easily? I can bring home my tester tomorrow. I'll betcha a Dew it's the RTD. Normally when they fail they either peg, or go less than zero.

What's an RTD?

Very easy to get to...I can come by wherever you are at tomorrow during lunch (will be out buying some steel plate).

All we have is Diet Dr. Pepper, Coke Zero, Diet Coke, Fruit Punch and Fanta something...
 
Resistance Temperature Detector. (the probe) Chevy crew has the testing procedure correct.

Any idea what the difference would be? I'll do it in the morning before I start it (I just got home, it will still be warm) and then when I get to the gym and see what the difference is.

If I could find out what a typical resistance would be for 200 or 400 or 600 degrees, I could get that size resistor and put it across to check the gauge.

Threading that cable again is gonna SUCK! I left a couple spare wires in there the first time so I wouldn't have to do it again but as I recall, the cable resistance is part of the gauge calibration. Oh well, I'll pull a wire through as I pull the old cable out and use it to pull the new cable in.
 

Chevycrew

Well-Known Member
Location
WVC, UT
I would pick up a new probe, compare the readings to the old one. If the readings dont match I would replace the old probe. (If you return the old one as the new, now thats up to you...)
 

cruiseroutfit

Cruizah!
Moderator
Vendor
Location
Sandy, Ut
Call Autometer and ask for their values... I had to do it on an Autometer guage (Fuel) and they were great about giving me the needed information. For a pyrometer I would expect some kind of delta T formula you can use to calculate resistance at a given temp.
 

Corban_White

Well-Known Member
Location
Payson, AZ
Looks like you got the answers you need, but just in case, I don't know the difference between hot and cold resistance but if it is reading 0 all the time and it is the probe that is bad then the resistance will not change. The wire may be special depending on the type of RTD being used. A common way to do it is using special thermocouple wire where the 2 strands are dissimilar metals and they are twisted (soldered) together at the end.
 
Or, you could just use the tester laying on my Jeep seat.......

(answer your phone dude)

Sorry...Did you call? Don't see any missed calls, took quite a few calls today. Maybe they'll show up tomorrow when I call you. I ended up not really taking a lunch, barely able to get to Wasatch Steel before they closed.

AutoMeter told me to pull the probe out of the exhaust (so it's not grounded), turn the key on, and hold a lighter to the probe and see if it shows on the gauge. Haven't had a chance to do that yet...

Do we have to pull it to use your tester?
 

BCGPER

Starting Another Thread
Location
Sunny Arizona
Sorry, I was probably asleep. My dentist yanked some wisdom out of my noggin this morning, and I've been kinda out of it for the day.
 
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