TJ Rear axle cam- how to get out?

TJustin

Wonton Wannabe
Supporting Member
Location
Payson, UT
Right now I am installing a Superlift 4" lift, and I have the front completed, and I am now, or better said, tomorrow will be finishing the rear end. I want to know how you have cut out the channel for the upper control arm in the rear. I plan on using a dremel tool, I don't know if it will work.

BTW what is the stock driveshaft angle on a TJ? I failed to measure before installing the kit..


Thanks
 

spaggyroe

Man Flu Survivor
Location
Lehi
Right now I am installing a Superlift 4" lift, and I have the front completed, and I am now, or better said, tomorrow will be finishing the rear end. I want to know how you have cut out the channel for the upper control arm in the rear. I plan on using a dremel tool, I don't know if it will work.

BTW what is the stock driveshaft angle on a TJ? I failed to measure before installing the kit..


Thanks

I used my buddies small body saw and a punch. You might be there a while if you plan on using a dremel. Here's a similar saw http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=91753

I have a 4" superlift on my TJ as well. Stock driveline works fine.
 

TJustin

Wonton Wannabe
Supporting Member
Location
Payson, UT
The instructions say I am supposed to get the angle of the Driveshaft before I lift it, and i skipped that step. Is it even needed to drill out the slot for the cammed bolts?
 

Bart

Registered User
Location
Arm Utah
Dremel a bad way to go, it will take you forever. I'd do a sawsall or a torch if you have one. Even a skill saw with a metal blade would be better if you can get the right angle on it.
 

spaggyroe

Man Flu Survivor
Location
Lehi
The instructions say I am supposed to get the angle of the Driveshaft before I lift it, and i skipped that step. Is it even needed to drill out the slot for the cammed bolts?

Mine were "perforated" from the factory, but needed to be coerced with the body saw before they would pop out. Without removing them, the cams included in your kit are worthless (a.k.a, pinion angle is not adjustable).
 

RockChucker

Well-Known Member
Location
Highland
i don't really understand why they are saying you need to know what your stock driveline angle is. it is going to be a much steeper angle, the only way to get it back to the stock angle would be to push your rear axle back quite a ways. at 4 inches of lift, you will probably have vibrations from the driveline. it is time to get an sye, which will also allow you to keep your skidplate all the way up.

sawzall is probably the way to go on getting the bolt out. i think that is what i used when it took mine off.
 

Jesser04

Well-Known Member
Location
Kaysville Utah
I just installed this exact same lift on a 97. The bolts on my came right out and the new ones slide right in. Good luck getting the axle to rotate at all i tried and tried with no luck we even had it on a lift. If i did it over again i wouldn't even put the new bolts in. Just my opinon.
 

TJustin

Wonton Wannabe
Supporting Member
Location
Payson, UT
well, the slots are out, I ended up using an air chisel which worked amazingly well, it knocked 1/2 of them right out, when we get it at the right angle, we plan on welding the cams in thier positions so that we do not have a problem of them shifting or rotating over time.
 

Jesser04

Well-Known Member
Location
Kaysville Utah
I would be intrested to see how it all works out please pm me if you get any rotation out of that rear axle. Mine has very little viberation in the drive line but enough to bug me thanks
 

spaggyroe

Man Flu Survivor
Location
Lehi
I just installed this exact same lift on a 97. The bolts on my came right out and the new ones slide right in. Good luck getting the axle to rotate at all i tried and tried with no luck we even had it on a lift. If i did it over again i wouldn't even put the new bolts in. Just my opinon.


Did you pop the "knock outs" out of the upper link mounts?
If not, the axle will not rotate with the cam bolts.

Mine rotated just fine after intalling the cam / bolt and removing the "knock outs".
 

spaggyroe

Man Flu Survivor
Location
Lehi
well, the slots are out, I ended up using an air chisel which worked amazingly well, it knocked 1/2 of them right out, when we get it at the right angle, we plan on welding the cams in thier positions so that we do not have a problem of them shifting or rotating over time.

I didn't weld mine and they haven't moved over time. They've been in for 5 years now.
 

TJustin

Wonton Wannabe
Supporting Member
Location
Payson, UT
so what do you do? do you put a wrench on the bolt and rotate it, which willl adjust the cams? what works best?
 
Top