TJ Tiebar Rodend Rubs Swaybar Disconnect

[Devel]

Hey Devel...do you work at Checker...seems that I met you at the Clinton store about 8 months ago or so. I considered the Tera knuckle and kit but it seems useless without considerable fabwork...moving trackbar to a correct position and moving the swaybar connect points. Not to mention $550 for a knuckle and some aluminum hex rods...doesn't really seem worth it.

QUOTE]
yup i sure am but i work at the south ogden store, if u bring it by when im there sumtime i can take a look at it. i will be at the s.ogden store all day 2marrow if u wanna swing by

 

[Andy]

I have a buddy with a good used steering set up for sale... TJ 7" lift.

 

[GOAT]

Goat, thanks for the great photo, much appreciated. The Currie system looks great...think I'll move forward with it. One question: you mentioned that the fit is tight...in what way?

The draglink comes real close to the trackbar bracket. There is a grease fitting that ends up getting ripped off and you'll have to switch to the needle type fitting.

My axle is moved a little over 1" forward and that contributed to most of my issues with the system.

Keep us posted

-Marcus

 

[waynehartwig]

actually i wouldn't recommend that knuckle and kit combo.it does nothing but create bump steer unless you go all out and move the track bar above the axle to match the drag link.

i mean really the best solution is an adjustable track bar and moving the mount above the axle tube where it should have been placed from the factory

I agree! My trackbar is not mounted at teh stock locations, and I still get a little bit. Also, this kit will cause turning radius problems if other things aren't addressed - sway bar mounts being in the way again.

 

[Nutz]

Thanks to everyone with the help and photo's on this. I've ordered parts and I'll post new photo's after install.

 

[Fuller]

i am possitive your caster is off. i remember having this problem when i built my l/a kit for my cherokee. if you use a welders angle finder u can set you caster angle correctly

 

[Nutz]

Wouldn't surprise me. I bought this TJ from a friend that had all of the work done at 4-Wheel parts...I've fixed a few things like a Banks header that didn't get the down pipes tightened and had an awful leak, oh and there was that little thing like the left motor mount shearing off the motor while I was driving it down the road (a smooth road)...all I can figure is that they pulled the mount to install the header? My bad for not looking things over more carefully...should have seen the look on the dealer parts guys face when I needed 3 motor mount bolts for an '04.

I bought a DPA, track bar with drop bracket, Currie steering, OME SS (because the one that's on it has been leaking for months) then Wayne had the nerve to quote a great price on a long arm upgrade that I just couldn't resist. The plan is I'll fix the caster when I install the LA kit...I think I have a digital smart level at work.

 

[Badger]

actually the parts guy must have been new .jeep and the 4.0 have a thing for shearing motor mount bolts.it was most likely sheared long before you noticed and was just barely hanging on.a good little blip of the throttle finished it.i have sheared two sets of bolts on my XJ

 

[Nutz]

Maybe I should have bought some spares

Parts guy said that they weren't common and didn't have any in stock (probably a new guy) but I did find it interesting that there were over a hundred in Denver. Luckily the sheared off ends backed out of the block pretty easily. This happened not long after I bought my TJ and it only had about 20k miles on it.

Do they tend to loosen then shear...probably a good idea to put a wrench on them once in a while and make sure they're tight. I did notice that two of the fasteners looked like they had been sheared off for a while before the final one 'let-go'.

 

[GOAT]

PM sent

 

[1993yj]

I would go with after market motor mounts anyways. The stock ones go out on every Jeep I know.

 

[Nutz]

Aftermarket motor mounts...probably not a bad idea but in this case it wasn't the mount that failed it was the three bolts that attach it to the motor...sheared off.

 

[Fuller]

id be willing to trade you my daystar motor mounts for some stock ones. if your looking to go that route

 

[waynehartwig]

If I would have installed your kit, I would have set it with the pinion a little high, just like what you have now, which is not that high. You don't want it to be set at 0*, your u joint life will drastically worsen. You want it about 2* off. That way the u joint has to rotate and continually moves the needles around, rather than wearing in the one spot only, until it's flat. Also, with a 4.5" short arm lift, as your suspension moves, the pinion will angle will drop. If you had it below 0* at rest, then you would have a much larger angle, which greatly reduces the u joint strength. At about 10*, the u joint strength is dramatically less.

I'd put money on your drag link being bent. The stocks ones have such a bend in them anyway, that even if it's a little bent, you can't really tell. That area is so close anyway, all it takes is a short bend for it to hit.

I'd get the Currie steering and the LA kit put on and see what you have. I bet you will find that there is plenty of clearance. When you install the LA kit, also set your pinion angle a little high/low, so you will have the 2* either way. The LA kit will never change your pinion angle throughout all of it's suspension movement - the caster changes, albeit very little.

 

[waynehartwig]

id be willing to trade you my daystar motor mounts for some stock ones. if your looking to go that route

I'll do it.. I have some that are almost new... I upgraded mine when I had low miles...