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Tonkamans little Cracka

Tonkaman

Tonkaman

Well-Known Member
Location
West Jordan
Caleb said:
Did you ever figure out the problem with your ignition system?
Click to expand...

Not exactly... After replacing one coil pack I have had it hesitate to start 3 separate times but atleast now it fires up after a few tries.

As far as the snorkel goes it's still not tied into the trucks intake since I'm still shopping for some OEM ducting. The install was super easy just a bit nerve racking to put several large holes in your truck. Anyone who can operate a drill and feel comfortable with basic layout should do fine
 
Tonkaman

Tonkaman

Well-Known Member
Location
West Jordan
The truck has been shredding tires lately so I finally took time to replace some front end parts. Outer tie rods, inner tie rods, upper ball joints, and lower ball joints were all completely shot. One old upper ball joint had bottomed out so hard it I ovaled the socket out!

I took the opportunity to upgrade my UCAs to Light Racing and they are a beautiful product. The replacement ball joint in these is twice as heavy duty as the OE design, and the adjustment is genius.

Where could I take this truck for the alignment that will take into account the adjustability of the UCAs? I haven't had the best if luck in the past trying to explain aftermarket UCAs to people. I know that I can maximize tire clearance by bottoming out the caster on the lower BJ, then bringing it into tolerance with the upper BJ. I'm hoping to find a shop that is willing to find a happy balance between clearance and factory alignment specs
 
cruiseroutfit

cruiseroutfit

Cruizah!
Moderator
Vendor
Location
Sandy, Ut
You still working in Sandy? We use the Big-O Tires in Sandy (88th & 7th) for all our post suspension install alignments including those with LR and other UCA's, always good results.
 
Tonkaman

Tonkaman

Well-Known Member
Location
West Jordan
The ignition conundrum continues.... After eventually swapping all 3 ignition coils I'm still having intermittent failures. Up until today it only ever happened while in 4-lo and going slow. When it cuts out I just pop the hood for a few minutes and it cools off enough to continue my drive. Today it died while parking and then again cruising down Bangerter! It's still the same code and it still fires up after it cools off a bit.

I guess the real question is why are my under hood temps so freaking hot?
 
nnnnnate

nnnnnate

Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
Location
WVC, UT
Its because you pulled the grill. The slats on the front of them actually work as aerodynamic veins which direct air streams to specific spots in the engine compartment alleviating issues just like what you are dealing with.

I hope you get it all sorted out so you can go out and play soon. (if you weren't working so much)
 
sixstringsteve

sixstringsteve

Well-Known Member
Location
UT
Check your coolant and make sure its not thr color of a pink milkshake.

When was the water pump done last? You're running a supercharger, right? Where does your temp gauge read?
 
Tonkaman

Tonkaman

Well-Known Member
Location
West Jordan
I'll check for the milkshake tomorrow morning. I'd assume the water pump was done with the timing belt about 20k miles ago. My coolant temperature is reading spot on in the middle if the gauge, which I would assume is around 180. My trans temp light has never come on but I don't have a way to read temps.
 
sixstringsteve

sixstringsteve

Well-Known Member
Location
UT
I'm just throwing suggestions out there, I don't know how to properly diagnose this.

When were the spark plugs and wires last changed? I recommend only using oem ngk plugs.
 
Tonkaman

Tonkaman

Well-Known Member
Location
West Jordan
I'll give them another look over but I would assume, at least the plugs, around 20k miles ago when it got rebuilt heads.

Does anyone know if adding the supercharger ever caused hear issues for others ? I really think the air temps under the good are the problem. Maybe I need to get a laser thermometer and get hard numbers
 
SLC97SR5

SLC97SR5

IDIesel
Location
Davis County
Some guys experience additional heat from the SC but rarely actual overheating. That is usually caused from a bad tune with way too much timing.

What have you done other than remove the grill?

Are all the plastic liners and body to frame flaps in place?

Is the upper rad hose firm and under pressure?

Is the fan clutch engaging?

When you squeeze the upper hose when the engine is cold can you hear the jiggle valve rattle?

Is the radiator plugged with mud?

Any idea if the colder plugs and thermostat were installed with the SC?

The 3.4 is a solid engine with very few overheating issues.
 
cruiseroutfit

cruiseroutfit

Cruizah!
Moderator
Vendor
Location
Sandy, Ut
Are you running a Scangauge or similar to detect running temps? My truck (SC'd) was getting into the 220* range on hard pulls on a hot day, I swapped in the TRD thermostat and dropped that number by 10*. I was having temp issues related to the SC but it was melting the APPS sensor and I'd get an occasional code and limp mode. My fix was to remove the coolant lines from the throttle body which cooled it off substantially. That was only an issue on throttle-by-wire 03/04 trucks.
 
Tonkaman

Tonkaman

Well-Known Member
Location
West Jordan
I was under the impression that the scan gauge wouldn't give temperature readings on the early tacomas, so I never bought one.

I just got back from camping at the sand dunes so I haven't had a chance to take a close look at the truck. In fact the check engine light cleared and the truck ran flawlessly.

All of the trim pieces that line the body to frame etc. we're never on the truck when I bought it. Do you think they help direct airflow enough to cause a problem?
 
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