Tonkamans little Cracka

[sawtooth4x4]

Coiled Straight axles are much better than leaf sprung axles for ride quality. My Range Rover and Disco ride great off-road and on. I'd rather have the straight axle, less parts to replace and worry about. But Land Rovers use radius arms and a panhard bar, so there is a lot less to go wrong compared with all the controls arms on Jeeps.

I like the IFS ride. But for durability you can't beat a solid axle, especially if you are using it off road.

Steve you have a leaf sprung suspension on your E350. It's going to be a rough ride and won't handle well. If you were to convert it to coil springs and radius arms, you would notice a much better driving experience. Comparing my F350 with coils and radius arms to an older F350 with leaf springs, the difference is nite and day. I'd take mine over the old style.

 

[AddictedOffroad]

I just saw this thread for the first time today since you bought it off of me. I had no idea you have had so many issues with it. The PS head on that motor was a brand new Toyota head. As were the Cometic head gaskets I put on them. I had both heads gone through by AMS Machine here in Fort Collins prior to reassembling the motor and they all checked out. I used new head studs as well when I put it back together. I never had a single issue with any ignition coil packs while I was driving it either. But, based on what I have read so far, it would not surprise me if you had a bad ignitor in it. That was the side that was damaged in the wreck, and some of the wiring harness has been pinched during the wreck as well. But, I never went into the harness at all as I did not have an issue with it.

If I remember correctly, I put around 2000 miles on that truck after I rebuilt it with not a single CEL or issue. It had 204K on it when I got it. So, I think you bought it with 206K on it. So, its seen about 30,000 miles on it since you bought it. And, I was 100% honest and didn't hide anything about what was redone on it, how it was fixed, or anything else. I never touched the suspension other than slapping the Bilstein adjustable shocks on it to clear the 285s. My sole intention the entire time I was working on it was to eventually SAS it. FWIW, I see stripped lower spindle bolts on these trucks/4runners at least once a month in my shop. Its another part of the lower ball joint failures that 1000s of these rigs go through yearly and why Toyota recalled them to begin with.

It seems that based on some posts by other people, that they think I some how screwed you over on this sale. You saw the pics of the truck before it was rebuilt and the build thread I did. I made no attempt to hide anything about how it was rebuilt, what parts were used, or how I did it. I daily drove it for a few months prior to selling it without issue. But, I know that when shit happens its easy to blame someone else. Not saying you are doing that, but based on how hammered that truck was when I got it, you can also understand what had to go into just to get it back on the road to begin with. So, implying that I was trying to kill you when you had a lower ball joint failure 30K miles after you bought it off of me, seems a little extreme. Especially since you have been wheeling it since day one, and those ball joints were original.

 

[Tonkaman]

This truck has obviously been a lemon since the first week I owned it, but I have never pointed the blame at Addicted Off Road. I have no way to identify what this truck had been though or who put it through so much abuse. All I know is that someone prior to me really neglected this truck. Do I regret buying it? Absolutely. Is that Scott's fault? Absolutely not. All used vehicles come with skeletons and it's a gamble we all take when making a purchase.

Edit: To clarify whenever I refer to someone working on or owning this vehicle before me I am talking ambiguously. I am not pointing the blame at Addicted Off Road.

 

[sixstringsteve]

Steve you have a leaf sprung suspension on your E350. It's going to be a rough ride and won't handle well. If you were to convert it to coil springs and radius arms, you would notice a much better driving experience.

Agreed. And if I went one step further and converted it to IFS, I'd have an even better driving experience.

I realize the difference in ride quality between leaf springs and coils, I've had both. I've had 10+ 4x4 offorad rigs with solid axles, and I much prefer my IFS rigs for all-around driving. If I were rock crawling 100%, I'd want a solid axle. Since I also drive my rigs on dirt roads and freeways, I'd much rather have IFS. I'm not saying you have to agree with me, but for my needs, IFS has always been more than plenty, even for wheeling harder trails.

[video=youtube;GmdmR8W5Kk4]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GmdmR8W5Kk4[/video]

The issues with Derrick's truck were due to neglect and abuse back in the day, not the fact that it's IFS.

 

[Box Rocket]

Coiled Straight axles are much better than leaf sprung axles for ride quality. My Range Rover and Disco ride great off-road and on. I'd rather have the straight axle, less parts to replace and worry about. But Land Rovers use radius arms and a panhard bar, so there is a lot less to go wrong compared with all the controls arms on Jeeps.

I like the IFS ride. But for durability you can't beat a solid axle, especially if you are using it off road.

Steve you have a leaf sprung suspension on your E350. It's going to be a rough ride and won't handle well. If you were to convert it to coil springs and radius arms, you would notice a much better driving experience. Comparing my F350 with coils and radius arms to an older F350 with leaf springs, the difference is nite and day. I'd take mine over the old style.

I can't argue that the solid axle is going to be stronger and less prone to failures like this. I've also been a proponent of solid axles over IFS for a long time. But my opinion has changed dramatically. It really comes down to where and how you go offroad. I have a truck with solid axles, radius arms and coil springs, and I've had solid axle trucks with leaf springs and I just sold my IFS Tacoma so it gives me a nice comparison. True the IFS has more parts to keep track of and make sure they're in good working order, like ball joints, cv's and control arms. But if you keep those in good working order I'm changed my tune and I think I prefer the IFS setups on everything but the more difficult rocky trails. Even then, I was blown away with how capable my IFS Tacoma was in the rocks and as long as you don't drive it like an idiot and know it's limits you can keep it in one piece even in the hard stuff.

Since selling the Tacoma I've put a lot of dirt miles on my LC80 with the coil sprung solid axle. I love it but it's nowhere near as good at the typical trail riding exploration type wheeling in terms of ride quality. I guess I'm saying I'm more a fan of the IFS for most things.
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Tonkaman, sorry to hear about the problems. It's a good reminder to check those LCA bolts and condition of the balljoints regularly.

 

[AddictedOffroad]

This truck has obviously been a lemon since the first week I owned it, but I have never pointed the blame at Addicted Off Road. I have no way to identify what this truck had been though or who put it through so much abuse. All I know is that someone prior to me really neglected this truck. Do I regret buying it? Absolutely. Is that Scott's fault? Absolutely not. All used vehicles come with skeletons and it's a gamble we all take when making a purchase.

Gotcha. Like I said, I don't think you are trying to say that. Some others have, but not you directly.

I am really sorry that the headgaskets failed. Cometic head gaskets are, quite simply, the best you can buy. So, I did. I also didn't buy a POS Chinese head to replace the broken one either. I bought a genuine Toyota head casting.

I did however, use cheap ass Certifit fenders, hood, headlights, etc. Because my intention was to SAS it and wheel it, so there was no sense in using expensive OEM replacements when I was just going to beat them up.

I am sure that the electrical gremlins have been a PITA to work through. And, I bet that those have stemmed from the harness that went through the wreck. I also don't doubt that you regret buying the truck at this point based on what has gone wrong.

FWIW, I think the ball joint failure and front end issues are more out of a lack of general maintenance than anything else. Those items go out even on well maintained rigs, not just neglected ones. Hopefully, it turns a corner soon for you.

BTW, a Scan Gauge II will read tranny temps on that Tacoma. In fact, I have a youtube video on my account in that truck with SCII showing just how fast temps raise and fall on a rig with that tranny in it. And, it shows how to control those temps.

 

[TRD270]

BTW, a Scan Gauge II will read tranny temps on that Tacoma. In fact, I have a youtube video on my account in that truck with SCII showing just how fast temps raise and fall on a rig with that tranny in it. And, it shows how to control those temps.

I have the code for the scan gauge if you want it, I currently have it programmed in mine. Took a lot of trial and error with the codes out on the interweb but I got it figured out.

 

[Tonkaman]

I have the code for the scan gauge if you want it, I currently have it programmed in mine. Took a lot of trial and error with the codes out on the interweb but I got it figured out.

Honestly I'm not sure I've ever heard of the 1st gens being able to read trans temps. Can you explain what needs to be done?

 

[Tonkaman]

I got the spindle back complete with new seals, bearing and Hub. They said that the old bearing trashed the hub and it couldn't be re-used. The thing that really sucks is the labor. They charged me $216 to press the new bearing! I was Furious! After cooling off I realize it's my own fault, I never did ask how much the labor would be. I never ever would have guessed it could cost that much though.

I also got a set of lower ball joint bolts to replace the other bolts. Here you can see they were too short but otherwise would have been hard to know they were wrong. I'm sure it was the lack of thread depth that caused 2 of them to strip.

 

[TRD270]

Honestly I'm not sure I've ever heard of the 1st gens being able to read trans temps. Can you explain what needs to be done?

Its the "X gauge" feature where you can punch in codes manually for readings that are not pre programmed

Under x gauge setup the first screen for the auto trans the code for the "TXD" screen is 686AF101B4 the code for the "RXF" screen is 044105B4000 the code for the "RXD" screen is 2808 the code for the "MTH" screen is 0090005FFD8

 

[TRD270]

I'm a visual guy so figured this might be easier



Go to Xgauge setup screen hit edit



You have I believe 24 custom codes you can enter, mine is in the first slot and is already named "AT"



This is the code you have to enter on the first screen



Second screen code



Third screen code



Forth Screen code



And where I named mine AT, after that you just hit "OK" then "Save" on the next screen. Then when you are on your gauge screen you can scan through the preset gauges as well as the one you just programmed.

Also i've tried all the codes I could find out there for engine oil temp so if anyone out there has one that works please share



And one showing it in gauge mode

 

[jeeper]

I bought a Scan Gauge for my 6.0. It's crazy cool all the things it can tell you. Scan Gauge will have a full list for your truck on their website.

 

[TRD270]

I bought a Scan Gauge for my 6.0. It's crazy cool all the things it can tell you. Scan Gauge will have a full list for your truck on their website.

Sadly most of the ones they have listed for Tacomas only work on second gens. Took quite a bit of digging around the interwebs to find codes for the first gens

 

[Tonkaman]

Oh wow that's cool! Thanks for the detailed instructions. I was under the impression that ONLY the 2nd gens could do that stuff

 

[glockman]

I have been watching this thread since you bought this truck Derek. I have always been impressed with the amount of character you have displayed in not blaming the PO for all the issues you have had. I would have had a hard time when big$ is going out the door not being a lesser person and taking it out on someone, even if it wasn't their fault. It's human nature to deflect and the internet was created for ranting and finger pointing. Your affection for Jeeper and Honda's aside, you are a stand up guy in my book.

 

[Tonkaman]

Either I'm the luckiest guy around or I've just taken out a loan on my luck for the next decade.






The LBJ sheared the stud right in half! Luckily I was pulling in my driveway when it separated. Apparently the bump where my driveway meets the street was too much for this Tacoma to handle ha ha. This is the second time in about a year I've escaped a totaled truck or worse.

 

[sixstringsteve]

Yikes! how old was that lbj? What brand was it?

 

[Rock Taco]

When I had mine I never had a LBJ failure. Bought it when it had 80k and wheeled it hard for 5 years and replaced them at 205k because I thought I should. Glad it was in your driveway.

 

[Gravy]

I had a LBJ shear on my Van on the freeway crazy stuff, it has a 3500 front end. It was some local OReilly brand, but lifetime warranty. They replaced it with a MOOG one.
Mine had a big bubble in the casting.
Your are very lucky! It's a miserable thing to get up onto a trailer: I had to ratchet strap the upper and lower a arms together.


Whoever owned your Taco before you....

 

[Tonkaman]

Whoever owned your Taco before you....

No blame to pass around here. That ball joint was replaced about a year ago with a Moog brand. I can't imagine there being any reason for it to fail other than a defect from the factory. The alignment was just redone a few months back and everything is still nice and tight.