Torque Converter
- Thread starter Shawn
- Start date
that would be low stall.. if you want a cheap way of telling what your stall is on a non lock up converter, lock up the breaks, hit the gas and watch your tach, when your tires start spinning is when you hit the converters stall.
you want a converter that stalls at the bottom of your torque band. and for our sport a locking converter will help keep the trany heat down.
you want a converter that stalls at the bottom of your torque band. and for our sport a locking converter will help keep the trany heat down.
A locking converter has an aditional clutch that actually locks the converter to the inputshaft, eleminates slippage of the converter so the trany gets 1:1 from the engine.
The shift kit really depends on if you want to manually shift the auto trany.
The TH350 is nice,cheap, plenty available and LOTS of parts for em.
a deep pan and a tranny cooler would be a good idea.
The shift kit really depends on if you want to manually shift the auto trany.
The TH350 is nice,cheap, plenty available and LOTS of parts for em.
a deep pan and a tranny cooler would be a good idea.
OK, I just call the trany shop and inquired about the 800 stall. He said they start out at $800-$900.00 just a tad out of my price range.
He said the best he could do would be 900 but I would have to use a 400 flex plate.
I should be able to bolt this felx plate to the back of my 350 motor right? I can't remember if the 400 crank end is different from the 350....
He said the best he could do would be 900 but I would have to use a 400 flex plate.
I should be able to bolt this felx plate to the back of my 350 motor right? I can't remember if the 400 crank end is different from the 350....
A wise man once told me not to worry so much about stall speed, so I have a "stock" converter (1600-ish??) to try out. Plus, it was free, so I'm not out much if I don't like it.
I know Marc M had a low-stall converter that he wasn't particularly happy with, and Craig swapped to a "looser" converter.
I'll let ya know how I like it after this weekend.
I know Marc M had a low-stall converter that he wasn't particularly happy with, and Craig swapped to a "looser" converter.
I'll let ya know how I like it after this weekend.
800-1000 is better, in a pinch find a convertor that was made for an RV or tow package.
As for the shift kit I am running a full reverse manual valve body, and I would not have an auto any other way, stays where I tell it, still has *some* compression braking, and you still can shift when you want
Call Steve at G&S transmissions, he might be able to help you out with the convertor, you could have one built custom its all a function of the stator blade angles
As for the shift kit I am running a full reverse manual valve body, and I would not have an auto any other way, stays where I tell it, still has *some* compression braking, and you still can shift when you want
Call Steve at G&S transmissions, he might be able to help you out with the convertor, you could have one built custom its all a function of the stator blade angles
Last edited:
Milner
formerly "rckcrlr"
- Location
- Hiding behind a camera
I once believed a low stall was best, that is until I was on a wall with the gas to the floor and no go. ( that was with a 12-14K stall).
I am going to try it with the lower tcase I have now, but suspect I will bump up to 1600.
I am no expert, and I have heard many contridictory explanations.
But, from my experience and research what I have gathered is that you want you stall speed about where your power band starts, reason being, it allows the tc to multiply the toque until you motor can produce enough of it's own. Yes it generates heat, BIG cooler. If the stall is too low, it can not overcome the load. For example I can stomp the brake and mash the gas, motor will come up to about 1200 and that is it/ no go. I was told if I bump the stall into my powerband a little more, let the motor hit 16-18K I could not hold it back.
I love autos, but they are a mystery to me.
I could be completely wrong!!
Curious to see Carl go this weekend.
I am going to try it with the lower tcase I have now, but suspect I will bump up to 1600.
I am no expert, and I have heard many contridictory explanations.
But, from my experience and research what I have gathered is that you want you stall speed about where your power band starts, reason being, it allows the tc to multiply the toque until you motor can produce enough of it's own. Yes it generates heat, BIG cooler. If the stall is too low, it can not overcome the load. For example I can stomp the brake and mash the gas, motor will come up to about 1200 and that is it/ no go. I was told if I bump the stall into my powerband a little more, let the motor hit 16-18K I could not hold it back.
I love autos, but they are a mystery to me.
I could be completely wrong!!
Curious to see Carl go this weekend.
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
Shawn- It depends.......From what I've seen, I'd stick with a stock stall converter.
I knew of someone that had a TPI 350 with a 700R4 and a 'RV Stall Converter' in his built YJ. It stalled at 800RPM, but the problem was that the engine and the gearing wasn't enough to spin the tires, when situations needed power for climbing.
That thing would overheat the Tranny during technical crawling, and didn't have enough gearing to work properly. The engine needed a higher RPM for it to move the Rig.
I think if you had a low speed Stall, and a Atlas with 4.3 (Or something similar) you'd be fine. If you're going to run one T-Case, I'd stick with a Stock Converter.
I knew of someone that had a TPI 350 with a 700R4 and a 'RV Stall Converter' in his built YJ. It stalled at 800RPM, but the problem was that the engine and the gearing wasn't enough to spin the tires, when situations needed power for climbing.
That thing would overheat the Tranny during technical crawling, and didn't have enough gearing to work properly. The engine needed a higher RPM for it to move the Rig.
I think if you had a low speed Stall, and a Atlas with 4.3 (Or something similar) you'd be fine. If you're going to run one T-Case, I'd stick with a Stock Converter.
Originally posted by I Lean
BCGPER.
In fact that is who I called.
I'm going to run the 900 stall and redrill the 350 flex plate to match the converter for the 400. With the gears I'm going to be running I'm not to woried about the torque band.
Thanks for all your replies you helped me add another piece to my puzzle.