Toyota Drive Shaft????

Rot Box

Diesel and Dust
Location
Smithfield Utah
I just installed some new 3" Trail Gear springs on the front of my pickup, and now I'm in serious need of a new drive shaft due to the springs impressive flex. I was previously running a stock one from an 85 Toyota truck in my 79 (G-52 five speed swap).

I know there is no way my (stock) CV will work because of the angle, and running the stock slip yoke won't work either due to stretch.....so basically my old shaft and spares are now worthless.

I am pretty much set on something from Tom Wood's, but wouldn't mind hearing other ideas. I have the tooling to make my own (square, trimmed CV, rear shaft cut down, ect...) but I'd rather spend some $$$ on one I can truly rely on, and have ballanced for snowy on road days. Any Ideas?

BTW: I also thought about buying a 12" slip yoke kit from TG or Inchworm, but that doesn't solve the CV bind....

Thanks, Andrew
 

I Lean

Mbryson's hairdresser
Vendor
Location
Utah
I just installed some new 3" Trail Gear springs on the front of my pickup, and now I'm in serious need of a new drive shaft due to the springs impressive flex. I was previously running a stock one from an 85 Toyota truck in my 79 (G-52 five speed swap).

I know there is no way my (stock) CV will work because of the angle, and running the stock slip yoke won't work either due to stretch.....so basically my old shaft and spares are now worthless.

I am pretty much set on something from Tom Wood's, but wouldn't mind hearing other ideas. I have the tooling to make my own (square, trimmed CV, rear shaft cut down, ect...) but I'd rather spend some $$$ on one I can truly rely on, and have ballanced for snowy on road days. Any Ideas?

BTW: I also thought about buying a 12" slip yoke kit from TG or Inchworm, but that doesn't solve the CV bind....

Thanks, Andrew

Easy solution, swap flanges front to rear on your Tcase, have the CV shaft modified to fit the rear, use the rear driveline on the front with your choice of long-slip options. That way you get a smoother CV for the rear, you can turn your pinion up toward the Tcase, and you get the greater angle ablity of the single U-joints on the front.

For long-slip stuff, it all boils down to personal preference. Dirt-cheap would be the square stuff, but it's not necessarily going to be the tightest/smoothest option. The 12" slip yoke kit you mentioned will do what you need, or you can have any driveshaft shop build you something.
 

Rot Box

Diesel and Dust
Location
Smithfield Utah
Wood's offers: 2 flange adapters with 1350 joints (one being their "super flex" joint for the t-case end) a 10" slip yoke, no CV, made to lenght for $449 in under 2 days.

The cheapest I've found extended slip yokes are around $200 for 8+ inches. plus about $35 to cut down a rear, and then the cost of a ballance....at least a week out.

Do I spend the $$$ or wait, and go with something cheaper??? :)sick: I'm thinking too hard! :sick: )
 

notajeep

Just me
Location
Logan
Central valley there in logan is pretty good as long as you tell them EXACTLY what you want.
Have you tried bolting up your old driveshaft? It would seem that with the added length of the g52 (26 1\2 inches I think, or about 6" over stock with the ol L43) that 3" springs would not be a problem for the angle of the driveshaft. I know that I run 3 1\2 TC springs with shackle about 1" longer than stock and I had my drive shaft from an 83 re-tubed to fit with the original CV on it. I do have the dual cases, but I also run the shorter L50 transmision, so our total length should be about the same.
Dan
 

carsmell

Registered User
Location
smithfield
Brett used a drive line out of a T-100 I guess the c-v has lots of angle to it but then you still have to deal with slip. Be cool like me and build a square one with tons of slip and bullet proof.
 

notajeep

Just me
Location
Logan
I just killed my square tube one on hells revenge a few months ago.... well the tube was fine but the CV gave up the ghost.
 

Rot Box

Diesel and Dust
Location
Smithfield Utah
FYI: My overall front drive shaft lenght needs to be 27.5". The strange thing is that with my old 2.8555556" springs the drive shaft worked even at full droop, and now with 3" springs, and my axle 1.5" forward it won't even drop far enough to bolt up :confused: .

I desided that it's one of those things that I don't want to second guess so I am now having Tom Wood's do their magic....

BTW: In caps 4x4 is $x$ :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:
 
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