Does anyone have a sugestion on keeping a pinion nut tight? I have the pinion nut on my Toyota 8" going loose after a couple months. I retorque it to 140 ft/lbs so I don't go over the 145 and crush the sleeve more and stake it but is still almost falls off. All Dana axles are around 200 ft/lbs. On an old 82 Isuzu diesel truck I had the dealer said to use plumbing goop on it since it was a common problem but I don't know if it is a good idea on this truck. The driveline angle was fixed but still the same problem. Thanks
Toyota pinion nut
- Thread starter chans
- Start date
SLC97SR5
IDIesel
- Location
- Davis County
Get a new pinion nut, measure the running torque to maintain your MAX 140ft lbs.
Slather the pinion with RED Loctite and re-stake it.
I also went through this and this worked for me.
Slather the pinion with RED Loctite and re-stake it.
I also went through this and this worked for me.
You will have to get the spacer cut just right so that your bearing pre-load is proper. Grind to fit is how I've done it. I hate crush sleeves.
- Location
- Smithfield Utah
I'd definitely go with the spacer. You can buy them from anyone, but you are basically looking for the third item down on on this page: http://www.trail-gear.com/diff-setup-parts The early 4x4's actually came with solid spacers from the factory.
I can't believe the crush sleeves last as long as they do. It doesn't take much to crush one--they suck lol
You'll have to shim the spacer (it comes with shims) to apply the appropriate bearing pre-load. If you have the tooling it is not difficult but you will have to tear down the third member to install it.
I can't believe the crush sleeves last as long as they do. It doesn't take much to crush one--they suck lol
You'll have to shim the spacer (it comes with shims) to apply the appropriate bearing pre-load. If you have the tooling it is not difficult but you will have to tear down the third member to install it.Crush sleeves last just fine usually, because they just assist in setting the pinion bearing preload. All the force from the gears is taken by one or the other bearing, so there isn't any reason for the crush sleeve to be under any pressure.
It does happen though, and I think it's mostly if you have a pinion nut come loose for some reason, then re-torque. Now you're dealing with a worn-in bearing, so you can easily crush the sleeve farther than it ever was before. (my theory anyway)
It does happen though, and I think it's mostly if you have a pinion nut come loose for some reason, then re-torque. Now you're dealing with a worn-in bearing, so you can easily crush the sleeve farther than it ever was before. (my theory anyway)
That is what I worry about. I' m careful to stay below the 145 ft/ lbs but think the sleeve will still crush more. I want to regear eventually so I might stick with the crush sleeve if it will be too much trouble and get a solid one with the new gears or third. I will probably cover it with locktite and move it to the front if it starts making noises. Thanks
Ah yes, that too. I just remember getting it close then using shims for perfectness. Durr. But I just used some tube I had laying around.
BCGPER
Starting Another Thread
- Location
- Sunny Arizona
Since you plan to re-gear anyway, you could toss a 0.010" shim between the race and and crush sleeve, and give it a second crush to get by for now.
When you re-gear, definitely go with the solid spacer.
Nice thing about Toyota's is how easy the differential is to set up. Almost makes up for that whole Birfield thing. Almost....
When you re-gear, definitely go with the solid spacer.
Nice thing about Toyota's is how easy the differential is to set up. Almost makes up for that whole Birfield thing. Almost....
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^ This. I've never had a problem with mine coming undone and that's after 5 years of wheeling and a solid 20,000 miles on the road.