Toyota Solid Axle Conversion

Dylan

Registered User
So bought a '87 Toyota pickup and I'm looking into doing a solid axle conversion. I'm going to do all the fab work myself but just have a few questions.

What seems to be the best axle to use? I was thinking of using one out of an FJ40 but are there better options?

I have 4:88's for the IFS front end that came with the truck, will that ring and pinon go into an FJ40 axle?

What about springs? I have a set from again, an FJ40 but will those work or will i have to get something different?

Does anyone have a guesstimate about what it might cost to do this conversion if I do all the work myself?

And if there is anything that I missed or forgot to ask that you guys feel that it is important for me to know I'd appreciate the help.
Thanks.
 

cruiseroutfit

Cruizah!
Moderator
Vendor
Location
Sandy, Ut
Really depends on what year your FJ40 axles...

Any FJ40 axle will take 4.88's, though early drum & disc axles had smaller knuckles and birfs, so all of the standard hi-steer options (All-Pro, Marlin, etc.) won't fit the knuckles. They will come with course spline pinion flanges, so add a new pinion flange to the cost as well. You could use the FJ40 springs, but your not going to find SAS kits that will use them. I would stick with PU springs even if you do run the FJ40 axle.

More specs on the LC axles here:
http://www.cruiseroutfitters.com/tech_front_axle.html
 

rondo

rondo
Location
Boise Idaho
My pal did his with a pass drop D44 from a waggy. I have one laying around. The width is much better than the 1985 yota axle which is what, 3" narrower than the rear? His rear has been been bullet proof with 37s and ARBs. the front has broke a lot of shafts until he put in CTMs. No issues yet except some new ball joints last year. The D44 has its limits that's for sure. But hi-steer is a piece of cake.

We did his SAS in his garage in a long weekend.
 

I Lean

Mbryson's hairdresser
Vendor
Location
Utah
No, the IFS 4.88's won't fit anything other than that IFS front end.

You'll probably save money in the long term (and definitely save time) by just buying parts designed for what you're doing. They can be found in those 3 links Rot Box posted.
 

rockreligious

NoEcoNaziAmmo
Location
Ephraim
dont use fj40 axles!!! (pinion shaft failure) if you are buying the marling, allpro, or trailgear sas kit use toy truck axles, because there is alot of stuff that comes with the kit for those axles(brakelines, rotors, steerarms, etc) if your fabbing up your own hangers and stuff i would go with waggoneer or scout II d44's unless you can afford dana 60's. that said I have learned after spending years of wasting money on substandard sized diffs to maybe get the d60's from the start and do it right the first time. that likely were you will end up someday anyway.
 

cruiseroutfit

Cruizah!
Moderator
Vendor
Location
Sandy, Ut
dont use fj40 axles!!! (pinion shaft failure) ....

Thats misinformation really...

Yes the EARLY Land Cruiser (pre-79) axles had course spline pinions, and were inherently weaker than their fine spline replacements. BUT, if your going to do any re-gearing, by default you will get the upgraded fine-spline pinions as they don't make gearsets with the course spline. Now which is stronger, the FJ40 spline or the PU spline? They are 100% exactly the same... so in the end you actually gain strength as the Land Cruiser has a larger ring and a much stouter carrier, ie less ring gear deflection and almost zero cases of actual ring failure compare to the pretty common 8" ring failure.

As noted, this only applies to early Land Cruiser stuff, later model stuff (79' & later) was all fine-spline from the factory, but again your regearing, it doesn't matter what it came with.

Your IFS front pinion flange should fit either a mini-axle or Land Cruiser axle, thus saving you the hassle of buying a new flange or re-drilling the existing ones.
 
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