TTB 50 on half ton bronco

Milner

formerly "rckcrlr"
I have only skimmed this thread, but I feel like giving out unsolicited opinions today, so....

TTB 50 vs TTB 44: Not much dif in breakage strength. Same 1 5/16" 30 spline at the carrier (where they break) same pinion and carrier bearings (IIRC) and just a marginally bigger r/p. The beeams themselves are not really any beefier. The biggest positive for the 50 is bigger brakes, bigger wheel bearings and 8 lug.

The whole 60 v 44 thing is a dead issue to me. It has been hammered over so many times and it is always the same. Build or swap in a 60 IT WILL BE CHEAPER in the long run.... A 44 can be built to hold up, but the $$ will add up fast and it will still break more often. I tried, I would not give up on my 44. It was built, but then i started breaking odd ball stuff. Like ripping spindles off, pulling ball joints out, breaking center sections and pulling tubes out. Now with a bone stock 60 I run 38's and have not broken anything. same rig, same driver, same motor, same left foot.

However, if you are sub 3000lb, try the 44, but I still would want a 60 :D

Oh yea, I am building a 50 :rofl: A SD 50 for my F250. But, it is only a tow rig and hardly ever sees 4wd. Just did not want to waste a good 60 that would never get used.... :D
 

Badger

I am the Brute squad
Location
South Salt Lake
ya 60's are every where but not the one i would buy.i would not buy a 60 unless it was kingpinned and high pinion its just not worth it other wise.now if you were to get a ball joint 60 you could have the "C"s cut off and replaced with kingpin style knuckle but then you are getting into money .

i ran a 79 Bronco with 38's and a 460 pushing an easy 400 horse and never hurt my 44 .this was also in the mud state of New Jersey were the only thing you really have to look out for is a stump under the mud.i found several with it hammered to the floor and came out fine every time.
 

mbryson

.......a few dollars more
Supporting Member
Badger said:
ya 60's are every where but not the one i would buy.i would not buy a 60 unless it was kingpinned and high pinion its just not worth it other wise.now if you were to get a ball joint 60 you could have the "C"s cut off and replaced with kingpin style knuckle but then you are getting into money.


I know of more than a few UROC competitors running the 'junk' ball joint 60s. They seem to work pretty well for them. I'm also not sold on the high pinion or nothing idea. I'll be running a low pinion, kingpin GM 60 in my YJ PDQ and frankly am pretty happy with it.
 

N-Smooth

Smooth Gang Founding Member
Location
UT
mbryson said:
I know of more than a few UROC competitors running the 'junk' ball joint 60s. They seem to work pretty well for them. I'm also not sold on the high pinion or nothing idea. I'll be running a low pinion, kingpin GM 60 in my YJ PDQ and frankly am pretty happy with it.

yeah i wouldn't run one of those... i heard they are weaker than d44's :rolleyes:
imo the only problem with bj 60s is the fact you have to get fancy stuff to run hi-steer... i'd run one!
 

Darwin

GREASE MONKEY
Location
sandy
"Oh yea, I am building a 50 A SD 50 for my F250. But, it is only a tow rig and hardly ever sees 4wd. Just did not want to waste a good 60 that would never get used.... "

^ this is the same reason i was thinking of this project in the first place. i have my wagoneer for the more hardcore trails. i'm actually building the 60's for it right now! this bronco is just a back up rig for light wheelin. i just feel compelled to modify things, and getting some bigger u-joints seems worth it to me. the brakes would be nice also
 

ut4x4Bronco

BigHunkenBronco
Location
Sahuarita AZ
It probably wasnt 5k, I just know it was a lot of k's. Im throwing in a $600 1-ton rear drive shaft to handle the 8" lift drive line angle and new front drive shaft.

Sorry about being so retarded, maybe I should give all my money to you guys...
 
Top