Tube inserts

gatchmo5710

Active Member
I use ruff stuff and they have been great. Everything is as pictured, and always pure beef! If i knew a local source i would def try them though.
 

Ashcat

Active Member
Location
Wisco
Check out Trail Forged. I’ll never buy another insert from anyone else. Period!

I’m cutting out all of my inserts and replacing with his. (Trail Forged)

RuffStuff is a great vendor/source but they don’t always offer the best solution or price point and their shipping isn’t always fair. I’ve been a long time customer/fan of theirs but I’m weening myself. Midnight offers a decent hex adapter too if you want local and I place their adapters well above RS. They even offer HD adapters but smooth shank only.
 

Ashcat

Active Member
Location
Wisco
The insert you linked must be a new design Dan offers. It’s a slight improvement over his last which had a small wrench flat that gets destroyed unless you TIG weld it and the heim shank out runs the insert so you’re losing valuable shear strength.


Link for the lazy

I can post measurements when I get home of the 7/8 and 1-1/4 and a comparison of RS, TF & M4
 

Ashcat

Active Member
Location
Wisco
Never seen such a thing. A futile effort I would assume and not really sure what you’d tether them too? I had to fight to get mine loose after KOH.

As for steering components and those who often struggle to keep jam nuts tight, on a Y or T setup, there is a solution that does not require any special parts, involve welding or any ghetto hack job repairs. It’s a noodler and the answer is right in front of everyone. Orientation. That is all. Think on that.....;)
 

Tebbsjeep

Well-Known Member
Location
Ogden
Maybe my problem was a combination of heims, bad ball joint, and no way to properly grip the control arm while tightening the jam nut. It wasn't very many miles of only street driving before I developed thread play due to the jam nut vibrating loose.
 

Ashcat

Active Member
Location
Wisco
Tube inserts pictured L to R 123456

1) RR Components of Az.
1/2-20, 1” OD, 3/4” ID, 1-1/4”L, 7/8” shoulder

2) RR
3/4-16, 1-1/4” OD, 1” ID, 1-3/4” L, 1-3/8” shoulder

3) M4 of SL UT
7/8-14, 1-1/4” Hex bar, 1” ID, 1-3/4” L, 7/8” shoulder

4) Trail Forged
7/8-14, 1-1/2” OD, 1” ID, 2” L, 1” shoulder, 1/2” weld taper

5) TF
1-1/4-12, 2” OD, 1-1/2” ID, 2” L, 1” shoulder 1/2” weld taper

6) M4 HD inserts
1-1/4-12, 1-3/4” OD, 1-1/2” ID, 3-1/2” L, 2” shoulder

Also note 1/4, 5/16, 3/8, 1/2, 3/4x5/8, 3/4, 7/8 & 1-1/4 and RS 1-1/4 hex insert on link.
 

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Tebbsjeep

Well-Known Member
Location
Ogden
Those trail forged look pretty beefy. So you say the ruff stuff ones I listed would be prone to shearing? Too much of the adapter outside of the tube?
 

Ashcat

Active Member
Location
Wisco
What size specifically?

Edit, guess I was confused because we both had commented steering at one point.

You linked 1.25. Judging by the stock photo, I’m assuming it has a different shoulder and undoubtedly more wrench flat area than what I purchased in 2016 or earlier. I’m sure they’d be happy to answer the specs if you asked.
 
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N-Smooth

Smooth Gang Founding Member
Location
UT
So you say the ruff stuff ones I listed would be prone to shearing? Too much of the adapter outside of the tube?

I would be extremely surprised if that has EVER happened. I bent a 7/8" shank heim really badly and the tube adapter was fine. I've also bent links and tie rods pretty severely and never had an issue. FWIW.
 

Tebbsjeep

Well-Known Member
Location
Ogden
In my mind, as long as you have a length of the joint inside the tube portion and the insert portion, it's basically one solid piece and wouldn't bend at the weld.
 
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