turbo+carb

rustybronco

Flat Land Offroader
Location
Illinois
That 10 psi stuff is a bunch of horse shiznit. Double your horsepower!!?? I'd be turboing everything. Every variable on your motor would have to be perfect; fuel, air, enough spark, and an unbelievably efficient intercooler. In building a turbo setup you might be getting into more than you want. But many people have done it successfully. I had my Ford 2.3 up to 19lbs of boost. That baby moved. Lots of people run a draw through setup(carb before the turbo). Some argue it works well because the fuel is better atomized after going through the compressor. One problem people have is since the carb is so far from the warm motor it can get pretty cold with the air and fuel flowing through it at high speeds, which forms frost, which then causes condensation, which then sends water droplets through your turbo and motor instead of just the normal water vapor in the air. And of course your turbo must have the proper seals so fuel doesn't leak into the exhaust side of the compressor. That would be a beautiful sight at the tailpipe! Also, because the carb is farther from your motor, after you close the throttle, the long intake tract still has a strong air/fuel mixture in it. Some people experience a strange problem with backfiring which could blow apart your intake track because the compressor (still making boost) won't let the backfire past. So you can do a blow through setup, which is what most people do for simplicity. Some problems with that are you'll have to run an electric fuel pump. Most stock mechanical pumps make no more than 5 lbs of fuel pressure. So if you're running 8 lbs of boost, you're defeating your fuel presssure by 3 lbs. So you run an electric pump. You'll have to run more than 10 lbs of pressure to keep up with 8 lbs of boost. However, at idle, you've still got that 10 lbs of fuel pressure which will probably over power your floats. So you need to run a regulator and do some fine tuning. You could run an FMU, but they're not recommended unless you really know what you're doing. You've also got to seal up your carb good or you'll be losing boost. Vacuum shouldn't be a problem. The only time you need vacuum for your breaks is when your foot isn't on the gas and so your carb will start to draw vacuum as soon as the boost comes down. That happens about as fast as you can grab the brake pedal. So you've got your carb working, now you've gotta light that baby. Any more than about 8 lbs of boost and you're either gonna have to get an intercooler or a sweet ignition system. MSD makes an ignition box that will retard your timing as your boost goes up. Drop your timing way down and good luck! Another interesting fact, 8lbs of boost at sea level is still 8 lbs of boost at high altitude. Altitude doesn't effect turbo setups. You get the same power. Probably why turbo diesels rule Utah! By the way, I'm hear in Illinios. Where do you wheel?
 

mbryson

.......a few dollars more
Supporting Member
rustybronco said:
................. Some problems with that are you'll have to run an electric fuel pump. Most stock mechanical pumps make no more than 5 lbs of fuel pressure. So if you're running 8 lbs of boost, you're defeating your fuel presssure by 3 lbs. So you run an electric pump. You'll have to run more than 10 lbs of pressure to keep up with 8 lbs of boost. However, at idle, you've still got that 10 lbs of fuel pressure which will probably over power your floats. So you need to run a regulator and do some fine tuning. You could run an FMU, but they're not recommended unless you really know what you're doing. You've also got to seal up your carb good or you'll be losing boost..............


Just a couple of questions/clarifications on the above. I've never known anything automotive to be "absolute". There's always variables and I think you've tried to address that. It seems that you are stating that if you run 8 lbs of boost, you need 8 psi of pressure. I would dispute that as I think if you are running a carb upstream of the compression {turbo or blower}, I don't think the carb is going to have a 'clue' what's going on downstream.

Are 'traditional' carb/turbo setups forcing air through the carb? That seems to be what you are stating in the last 'quoted' portion above.

The only "experience" I have with turbo's is drooling over all the GN an GNX cars in the mid-80's. They are intercooled and FI, so none of the above applies. {well, mostly}
 

rustybronco

Flat Land Offroader
Location
Illinois
mbryson said:
It seems that you are stating that if you run 8 lbs of boost, you need 8 psi of pressure. I would dispute that as I think if you are running a carb upstream of the compression {turbo or blower}, I don't think the carb is going to have a 'clue' what's going on downstream.

Are 'traditional' carb/turbo setups forcing air through the carb? That seems to be what you are stating in the last 'quoted' portion above.

/QUOTE]

When I was discussing fuel pressure in that portion of my "novel" the carb was under boost. So you need at least as much fuel pressure to feed the pressurized carb. You're right in that upstream all the carb would be experiencing is a lot of vacuum.
It seems like nowadays that the traditional method is a carb in a "bonnet" after the turbocharger. So the carb sees pressure rather than boost. Usually you have to set up your carb to handle the boost. I've heard of guys running older holleys with hollow floats and they would collapse under the pressure. All kinds of weird stuff happens when you bolt on a puffer! Here's a great site with some cool ideas. There's even a junkyard turbo section: http://www.turbomustangs.com/forums/
 
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