Two piece driveshaft question

[DaveB]

Due to the TCase clocking and front axle width changes it looks like my Commando project is going to need a two piece front driveshaft if I want any size to the shaft. Does anyone know of a good rig to find the carrier bearing I could use ? I would like to find one so I can build up the mount for it and get the pinion angle correct before I weld the axle knuckles back on.

 

[Kiel]

Quite a few trucks use rear carrier bearings, but they all have rubber surrounding them, and in my opinion take a beating offroad. I would suggest using a pillow block instead. If not check out the rears of f-250's 350's for 1350- 1410 drive shafts

 

[utah340six]

tubetoy just got one from 6 states slc.
try a ford ranger 93 ish 2 wheel drive
or anything with 7.9 deisel or duramax long bed or extended cab.
zac said most any of the extended cab long bed pickups have them

 

[jswainthug]

I can get you a junker carrier bearing for mock up if you would like!

 

[Herzog]

I used a pillow block from northern tool. They have a few different sizes to choose from and it works great.

 

[midog]

Quite a few trucks use rear carrier bearings, but they all have rubber surrounding them, and in my opinion take a beating offroad. I would suggest using a pillow block instead. If not check out the rears of f-250's 350's for 1350- 1410 drive shafts

Kiel,

I just had my 2 piece front shaft made and he used one of those “rubber surrounded” units you are talking about. At first I thought this was a good idea being a pillow block is ridged and does not allow for any movement caused by a flexing drive train (no slip and spline between the bearing and transfer case)? Have you used this style personally and what are the common failures?

 

[DaveB]

Thanks for the responses. I guess I'll need to look at the pillowblocks and the rubber units and see what will work best. Both types would be mounted to a frame cross member so there would be some flex issues that I would need to take care of unless the crossmember and TCase were mounted together and the flex bushings were between the frame and the crossmember rather than the tcase and the crossmember.

 

[DaveB]

I can get you a junker carrier bearing for mock up if you would like!

That would work well if I go that way. I'll let you know what I decide.

 

[Herzog]

Thanks for the responses. I guess I'll need to look at the pillowblocks and the rubber units and see what will work best. Both types would be mounted to a frame cross member so there would be some flex issues that I would need to take care of unless the crossmember and TCase were mounted together and the flex bushings were between the frame and the crossmember rather than the tcase and the crossmember.

The pillow block I used has rotational give in it... meaning the driveshaft doesn't need to be exactly inline with it. Also - add a slip into the short shaft between the t-case and pillow block. That will give you the movement you need.

 

[Kiel]

Kiel,

I just had my 2 piece front shaft made and he used one of those “rubber surrounded” units you are talking about. At first I thought this was a good idea being a pillow block is ridged and does not allow for any movement caused by a flexing drive train (no slip and spline between the bearing and transfer case)? Have you used this style personally and what are the common failures?

Let me rephrase that, I think they would be good for a dd. But when it comes to longevity and ability to take abuse, they just don't hold up. But your talking to someone that did 1410's on his pillow block If your worried about having a little movement some people run 2 slip yokes, one on the axle side, one on the pillow block side between the t case. I didn't though

 

[Jinx]

Side note, I would recommend a 1410 u joint in the middle just for range of motion sake. binds suck...

 

[DaveB]

Would one of you guys using the pillow block setup snap a photo and post it so I can see how you have it set up ? Thanks

 

[midog]

Would one of you guys using the pillow block setup snap a photo and post it so I can see how you have it set up ? Thanks

Tom Woods has a couple good pictures of their 2 piece w/ a pillow block.


http://www.4xshaft.com/index.html (bottom right of the page)

 

[DaveB]

Tom Woods has a couple good pictures of their 2 piece w/ a pillow block.


http://www.4xshaft.com/index.html (bottom right of the page)

Thanks for the link, I might have enough stuff laying around to make up one of these, I would just need to find the pillow block.

 

[Herzog]

Tom Woods has a couple good pictures of their 2 piece w/ a pillow block.


http://www.4xshaft.com/index.html (bottom right of the page)

Yep, just like this.

Pillow blocks at Northern Tool: http://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...=mode+matchallpartial&Dx=mode+matchallpartial

 

[DaveB]

Tom Woods suggests not using these for higway speeds because of vibrations. I will have hubs and will mostly use the front for going slow but I wonder how bad the vibes might be at higher speeds with just a slight side angle.

 

[Erik d_lux]

I setup Gomers by using a bearing and pressing it in a small piece of DOM. Then I welded a plate to that DOM and bolted that to the frame. Worked out really sweet.

Thanks to David at APEX machine for doing the machine work.

I have a toyota shaft that uses the rubber carrier bearing if youre interested. It needs a new piece of rubber.

 

[Herzog]

I like the added reinforcement on the yoke where the caps are. I'm going to steal that idea.

 

[DaveB]

Lots of good ideas, thanks everyone.

 

[Erik d_lux]

I like the added reinforcement on the yoke where the caps are. I'm going to steal that idea.

It works great. The secret is getting some weld INSIDE the plate/yoke. The first ones I did just had weld on the outside and they would eventually rip off when grinding on the rocks and being cast and all. Since I have been welding them on the inside none have failed.