TY-J already built thread

[Cascadia]

Just pulled off my leaking hydraulic line for the steering. Took it to evco and they decided to close at 12. I showed up at 12:11. Hose and rubber is also closed. Is there anywhere else in utah valley that can fix or build me a hose fast before first tracks tomorrow?

 

[brandonlmb]

Might want to check with napa

 

[benjy]

Yeah, napa might be your best bet. Do you know the size of the line? I have a few fittings and extra line. I'll be in Orem this afternoon, I'd like to check it out anyway! IIRC my spares are all AN -6

 

[Cascadia]

Thanks Ben. Pic sent to you so you can check and see if you have what I need. Fittings are -6.

 

[Cascadia]

Might want to check with napa

Thanks. I called napa and they only do lines in riverton.

 

[Cascadia]

Mitch at UFAB got me taken care of. Good thing I got it taken care of before wheeling tomorrow. Turns out it wasn't a high pressure line. The new one is high pressure and braided.

 

[Tacoma]

Ya. I can tell. Quit texting me for pics of different poses. It's getting weird.

He does that to me too, only I don't have a Jeep anymore...

 

[Trate D]

Glad ya got it fixed. Napa in Spanish fork makes lines for future reference.

 

[Cascadia]

Good to know. Thanks.

 

[Cascadia]

So my d300 is flipped in the TY-J. I am having some pretty good leaking out of the shift rails. I was told I can run 2 seals instead of 1. Is this what I should do or is there a thicker seal I could use?

 

[bryson]

So my d300 is flipped in the TY-J. I am having some pretty good leaking out of the shift rails. I was told I can run 2 seals instead of 1. Is this what I should do or is there a thicker seal I could use?

I don't know of a thicker seal that would fit, but it is easy enough to stack two stockers. No mods necessary, just tap the first seal in deeper then stack the second one on top of it. Make sure the shift rails are nice and smooth too - pretty common for them to be marred-up if they have been improperly installed in the past.

 

[brandonlmb]

I had the same problem and thought it was shift rails so I did the double seal that didn't fix the problem. It ended up being the indicator caps that leaked and looked as if it was the shift rails. I ened up jb welding the caps in. It stopped that leak.

 

[bryson]

I had the same problem and thought it was shift rails so I did the double seal that didn't fix the problem. It ended up being the indicator caps that leaked and looked as if it was the shift rails. I ened up jb welding the caps in. It stopped that leak.

That is a good solution for the detent plugs. I have also seen people tap the holes and run a threaded plug in them - removable, and you can easily seal the threads.

 

[Cascadia]

Do I have to drain all the t case fluid before I pull the shift rails out? Does anyone have a part number for these?

 

[bryson]

if you can get to (and see...) the shift fork set screws with a long allen wrench through the bottom cover (top for you on the flipped case) it may be possible without draining the oil, but it wouldn't be easy. But, if you're careful you can empty the oil and re-use it easily enough I'd think.

I personally wouldn't bother trying to do it in the Jeep... Just remove the 6 nuts that mount the case to the adapter and pull it out to do the work on a bench. I think in the long run it'd save you a bunch of time, and a whole lot of grief.


What exactly are you looking for a part number for? The seals?

Try here: http://www.4wd.com/Jeep-Drivetrain-...spx?t_c=12&t_s=116&t_pt=8208&t_pn=OAI18674.25

 

[Cascadia]

I've been too busy to deal with the jeep so I just took it by to Kent at six states to do for me. Only cost me about $40 and saved me some headache. He said he'd never seen a flipped 300 before but said it made the fix super easy. He said it was harder to fill it back up with fluid. Glad it's done though.

Ill be adding on to the cage tomorrow for the back seat passenger(s). Pretty excited to get it done.

 

[Bart]

I'd say $40 well spent to avoid that. Good call.

 

[Cascadia]

Don't have any good pic yet of the cage mods but got the main new tube in. Just need to do the down tubes and a couple other angled tubes up top then it'll be done. Thanks to Chance (chocflip201) for helping me out with getting it done.

On a side note, what should I budget for a 5.3/th400 to bolt in front of my 231/300? Time to start saving.

 

[benjy]

It really depends on the components you use. I would budget between $7-10k. I still haven't figured out exactly what mine cost but it was definitely on the high end of that #. Granted, any pre-fabbed part available in the aftermarket I would buy. Also, consider doing a 6.0 the incremental cost of the engine is relatively low.

 

[Cascadia]

I guess I should probably look for a 6.0 although a 5.3 would be sufficient. But for what you get for an extra $500 for a 6.0 it is worth it. I have a guy that only does motor swaps. He has quoted me $5000 for a 5.3 or $5500 for a 6.0. That includes everything to get me running including a th400, the adapter to the 231/300, custom harness, and anything else needed to get me on the trail.