k, I bought my jeep slightly rolled and have been having a great time with it. It was just recently made known to me that I have cracks at the stress points above the doors and at the top corners of the front end, under where the rear view mirrors are. I love my jeep and i dont want to get rid of it. I just picked up an internal roll cage from Bad cop and I'm wondering if that will solve some of the problem and can I somehow fix/get fixed the cracks?? Welding? re-enforcing? What can I do? I have an offer to trade the jeep for an older built toyota pickup and I'm wondering what I should do. If the jeep can be saved I wanna do it. HEEEEELP!
unibody cracks!!!!!???? HEEELP!
- Thread starter pELYgroso
- Start date
Vonski
nothing to see here...
- Location
- Payson, Utah
Hmmm... depending on the condition and the amount of money/upgrades done to the Toyota pickup, that could be a great option. I have owned and built both of these types of rigs for myself, but my XJ (which I still own) has serious limits in comparison to the Toyota pickup I once had. All of which had to do with the unibody construction. Don't get me wrong, XJ's can be made into decent trail rigs, and I think I have a good example of a fairly "built" XJ myself. However, the Toyota would be the better choice for long term use (or abuse) IMHO.
On a side note... I'd question the logic of someone willing to trade a "built" (which could mean anything) Toyota pickup for a previously rolled XJ with noticeable structural issues.
On a side note... I'd question the logic of someone willing to trade a "built" (which could mean anything) Toyota pickup for a previously rolled XJ with noticeable structural issues.
true.....but my xj has a rear coil conversoin, motor work, and TONS of things done to it. (lockers, axles, the works) and his Toyota is built but not as extreme as the XJ. He'd use it mostly for camping and hunting and he says he may put all the goodies from my XJ into another with a decent body later. So he's basically getting all my goodies plus a crappy body (but it all works and drive great) for his Toyota that's built and trail ready with no long term problems lie cracks in the frame. I'm thinking it would be a pretty even trade. BUT like I said, if I can, I'd like to save the XJ. The toy'll never flex like the XJ does.
KToy
Well-Known Member
- Location
- Herriman, UT
hmmm this is tought one huh.
im a toyota fan so im going to say trade it. and im sure you can make a toyota flex as good as an xj. throw some xj coils on it and long arm 4link.
then you have same suspension as the xj but with stronger axles.
im a toyota fan so im going to say trade it. and im sure you can make a toyota flex as good as an xj. throw some xj coils on it and long arm 4link.
then you have same suspension as the xj but with stronger axles.
- Location
- Bountiful, land of rocks
I'llpullyaout said:
That's a fair amount of work to fix, but it can be done. Drill a hole at the end of the crack and weld each one up. They'll probably come back, but it'll at least get you a few more years. The only one that will be difficult to fix correctly is the one that goes up from the front door upper hinge and into the cowl area. If that crack is longer than you can see, it's kinda difficult to get in there and get it fixed. At least fix it as far as you can.
I don't think the cage will help much without something solid to mount it to (which frankly doesn't exist in your platform-it's built to 'flex' and it's been used). If it was me (lessee, I was here almost exactly 1 year ago), I'd get something with a frame and go from there (depending upon your intended use), but you could get a little more use out of your platform if you want to put a little time and work into it.
KToy
Well-Known Member
- Location
- Herriman, UT
here is another idea.
cut off the top and weld in your cage ya got and make it a buggy style rig sorta like a convertable or something.
make it more custom and cut off the bad areas if you can.
i dont understand where all the cracks are as im a visual learner here but to me that would be a cool diffrent thing to do. somhow make it street legal.
cut off the top and weld in your cage ya got and make it a buggy style rig sorta like a convertable or something.
make it more custom and cut off the bad areas if you can.
i dont understand where all the cracks are as im a visual learner here but to me that would be a cool diffrent thing to do. somhow make it street legal.
- Location
- Bountiful, land of rocks
KToy said:
Yeah, never been done
(there's at least 3 I can think of on this board like that) Basicly, you have to build a buggy AROUND the stock body (or what you leave of it) for that to work out decent. More work than it's worth, IMHO.thanks for all your ideas. it sounds like I'll be a yota convert before long. (although I've always liked yotas too.) I'd do the work to fix the cracks if it was a permanent fix but if it's just gonna come back, I'd rather, like some of you said, just get a rig with a frame and go from there. The toy that I'm looking at has 5" alcan springs, 5:29's, a dual t case, lockrites front and rear........, so I guess that'll be a good start. Thanks!
here's a description of the truck that I might trade for my XJ. I dont know much about Toyotas besides the obvious stuff and that the burfields are pretty much crappy. Are the springs he mentions decent?? does this sound like a pretty capable rig to all of you yota lovers?? Does anybody know if a rear coil conversion is very feesable? the bed of this truck is 2" square tube frame bed.
First The Good:
-THis truck has over $7000.00 in aftermarket parts on it, not to mention what labor costs or what the truck cost alone. Most of the work was done by a local 4 wheel shop.
1984 Toyota Truck rockcrawler.
-This truck is a extra cab pickup with the 22r motor 5-speed. The motor is in great shape it does not burn or leak any oil. When I purchased the truck I was told the motor had been rebuilt around 125000 miles. I can not confirm that though.
-The motor now as a new header.
-New weber carb 36/32.
-I have a cam for it which has not been installed yet but will sell with the truck.
-The transmission, clutch and slave cylinder were replaced approx 2000 miles ago.
The truck has a marlin crawler box transfer case. (dual t case)
-A new bud built cross member with dual tranny mounts for strengthening.
-The Axles both have 5.29 gears and lock right lockers.
-The rear axel has a new park brake cables and proportioning valve.
-The Front axle has a cross over high steer with the late model power steering box and new hime joints for tie rod ends.
-Thier is an alpine stereo and amps with fosgate truck boxes and kicker speakers in the dash.
-Their is a onboard air tank mounted under the bed.
-The springs are alcan springs with the front axle moved forward 1 inch. and the back springs are 5" longer than stock providing between 5-7 inches of lift.
-I just put new shackles on it.
-The rear drive shaft is new.
-The rear shocks are new procomp adjustable MX-6
-The front shocks are rancho 5000
-The frame and bed have been bobed about 12 inches.
-The tires are 35" mud terrains with atleast 1/2 the tread still.
-The spare is new.
-The battery is new.
-The radiator and thermostat are both new.
-The front end has recently had an alignment.
-The truck has not been wrecked and their is no corrosion on the body.
-I also have a yellow hood that matches the doors. A pair of extra burfields and the extra marker lights and head lights off my old 4-runner which will also go with this.
----The bad.
-The doors and fenders do not match because they came off my old 4-runner. I wanted to have the large window instead of the wing windows which this truck had originally and the original driver side window crank was broken.
-The cab behind the driver does have a couple of dents from rocks I've gotten to close to.
-The interior is not perfect.
First The Good:
-THis truck has over $7000.00 in aftermarket parts on it, not to mention what labor costs or what the truck cost alone. Most of the work was done by a local 4 wheel shop.
1984 Toyota Truck rockcrawler.
-This truck is a extra cab pickup with the 22r motor 5-speed. The motor is in great shape it does not burn or leak any oil. When I purchased the truck I was told the motor had been rebuilt around 125000 miles. I can not confirm that though.
-The motor now as a new header.
-New weber carb 36/32.
-I have a cam for it which has not been installed yet but will sell with the truck.
-The transmission, clutch and slave cylinder were replaced approx 2000 miles ago.
The truck has a marlin crawler box transfer case. (dual t case)
-A new bud built cross member with dual tranny mounts for strengthening.
-The Axles both have 5.29 gears and lock right lockers.
-The rear axel has a new park brake cables and proportioning valve.
-The Front axle has a cross over high steer with the late model power steering box and new hime joints for tie rod ends.
-Thier is an alpine stereo and amps with fosgate truck boxes and kicker speakers in the dash.
-Their is a onboard air tank mounted under the bed.
-The springs are alcan springs with the front axle moved forward 1 inch. and the back springs are 5" longer than stock providing between 5-7 inches of lift.
-I just put new shackles on it.
-The rear drive shaft is new.
-The rear shocks are new procomp adjustable MX-6
-The front shocks are rancho 5000
-The frame and bed have been bobed about 12 inches.
-The tires are 35" mud terrains with atleast 1/2 the tread still.
-The spare is new.
-The battery is new.
-The radiator and thermostat are both new.
-The front end has recently had an alignment.
-The truck has not been wrecked and their is no corrosion on the body.
-I also have a yellow hood that matches the doors. A pair of extra burfields and the extra marker lights and head lights off my old 4-runner which will also go with this.
----The bad.
-The doors and fenders do not match because they came off my old 4-runner. I wanted to have the large window instead of the wing windows which this truck had originally and the original driver side window crank was broken.
-The cab behind the driver does have a couple of dents from rocks I've gotten to close to.
-The interior is not perfect.
rockreligious
NoEcoNaziAmmo
- Location
- Ephraim
Im a Jeep freek...but I would probably trade for the toy. I agree with Vonski. you can stiffen it up for a while but it will gradually detiroirate if you continue to wheel it hard.
I had a ZJ grand that I rolled a couple of times in CedarCity, and after a year of running it on the trails it started to flop around like a wet cardboard box. pretty soon my wife started whinning about the doors not opening and closing and she agreed to let me stab the zj motor into a new wrangler project.
I had a ZJ grand that I rolled a couple of times in CedarCity, and after a year of running it on the trails it started to flop around like a wet cardboard box. pretty soon my wife started whinning about the doors not opening and closing and she agreed to let me stab the zj motor into a new wrangler project.