ID Bronco
Registered User
- Location
- Idaho Falls, ID
Congratulations on your Mission! It'll be awesome.
Vehicle Build: 1st Gen Tundra
- Thread starter Rocksy
- Start date
Congratulations on your Mission! It'll be awesome.
- Location
- Bountiful, land of rocks
Awesome! Good luck sir! He's had a great experience in a number of ways. It'll be good to have him home. Give your mom a good hug before you go. I'm surprised how taxing that's been on her for the two years.
Rocksy
Member
- Location
- Saratoga Springs, UT
Today I drove the truck to Boise Idaho where it will rest for the next 2 years. On the way she rolled over to 200k. It was pretty hard to walk away from it as cliché as that sounds. I will pick up this thread again sometime in the early fall of 2019.
Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
sixstringsteve
Well-Known Member
- Location
- UT
Excited to see this build continue in 2019.
Unimog
Eric
- Location
- Stansbury Park, UT
I served a mission in Guayaquil --- a short few decades ago [emoji41]. You will love it there - great people, fabulous country!
Toad
Well-Known Member
- Location
- Millville(logan)
We are all a bunch of old farts now!! I was in Philly last week. Meet a kid from Cali were I served. He would have been two at the time I was in the area.
Rocksy
Member
- Location
- Saratoga Springs, UT
Well, after 2 years the vehicle is still (in essence) as it sat when I left it. A piece of trim got ripped off the side of it last week when my buddy drove it down from Idaho at 100+mph and some underbody parts and parts of the sliders have some very moderate surface rust. It passed safety & emissions this week just in time to throw an evap code. Nothing major, just have to inspect some rubber pieces that could have found problems. It still runs and drives the same and I'm stoked to be back to drive it. It was started weekly and driven briefly on a monthly basis so I'm hoping for no major engine issues after 2 years. 
Camelback Toyota wants 120 bucks for that trim piece and I can't find another alternative. I think they only sell the color matched ones but mine were grey/chrome and I painted them so I for sure don't need the color matched ones. Any ideas? Maybe just take them all off and plug the holes?
Put her to work day 1 back
Camelback Toyota wants 120 bucks for that trim piece and I can't find another alternative. I think they only sell the color matched ones but mine were grey/chrome and I painted them so I for sure don't need the color matched ones. Any ideas? Maybe just take them all off and plug the holes?
Put her to work day 1 back
Spork
Tin Foil Hat Equipped
- Location
- Saratoga Springs, UT
Welcome back, I can't believe it's been 2 years. I must be getting old and time moves faster or something. That almost looks like a gas cap code.
sixstringsteve
Well-Known Member
- Location
- UT
Hey Rockwell, welcome back. I'm glad to see your brother didn't destroy your truck while you were gone. 
While you were gone I bought a Tundra myself and I love it.
I'd try the gas cap first too. I've also had good luck with ebay and car-parts.com Those holes will be tough to fill properly.
While you were gone I bought a Tundra myself and I love it.I'd try the gas cap first too. I've also had good luck with ebay and car-parts.com Those holes will be tough to fill properly.
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Rocksy
Member
- Location
- Saratoga Springs, UT
Right, first step is new gas cap. It still clicks and visually seems good but could still be bad. Next would be filler neck and after that other more complicated investigation. Hopefully it's just the gas cap.
I'm not very familiar with long term car storage either so I don't really know what to be looking out for in the coming weeks but soon it needs a serpentine belt (been visually worn for quite some time now) and so far that's what I've got. Gonna be interesting.
I'm not very familiar with long term car storage either so I don't really know what to be looking out for in the coming weeks but soon it needs a serpentine belt (been visually worn for quite some time now) and so far that's what I've got. Gonna be interesting.
ID Bronco
Registered User
- Location
- Idaho Falls, ID
Welcome back, how was your Mission?
Rocksy
Member
- Location
- Saratoga Springs, UT
It was fantastic. Definitely taught me more than I could have ever learned without leaving. Glad to be back, but for sure an excellent experience.
Rocksy
Member
- Location
- Saratoga Springs, UT
Well, this is now more of a maintenance thread than it is a build thread, but I still like documenting the work I do on the vehicle I suppose. Since being back I haven't done much to the truck, but have a few things in progress. I was actually able to find another 1st Gen (by some kind of miracle) in a junk yard. I pulled the gas cap and the trim piece that got ripped off. The gas cap cleared the EVAP codes. They came back a 2nd time but the CEL recycled again and it hasn't returned since (been about 1000 miles I'd guess).
Today I picked up some 17 inch Sequoia wheels that I think I'm going to paint and use to mount some bigger tires on. It's about time for new tires anyways, and r17 is a more common size (at least in used tires that I see). If I never use them, oh well, I payed 50 bucks for the wheels and tires and 24 lug nuts.
I think I'm gonna go with some 285/75 r17 because it's kind of a happy medium in my mind between 33s and 35s. I like that they're not as wide as 315/75r16 so I should avoid at least SOME rubbing.
I've seen one other guy run 35s on a 1st gen tundra and he had to tub and trim fenders a little. He was running less lift and wider tires than Im planning though, so we will have to see. I'm not against tubbing and trimming but if I can avoid it, why not?
Current set of tires has worn kind of unevenly even with frequent rotations just because my cam adjusters are seized. That said, new LCAs are going on before new tires. I would try to just pull the bushings out of the current LCAs but most people that I've talked to about the seizing issue say that it's easier to just buy new LCAs.
Truck is still running great. I love it. I feel like I'm gonna get at least another 200k out of it, treating it right.
It has never, even since the 1st owner, been stored inside. During its two year sit, it was sitting outside under a tree. That lack of care for paint is starting to become more visible, as the paint on the hood and the top of the cab is visibly suffering. Never seen the kind of deterioration like what's happening on the hood. Kind of frustrating. Debating whether or not I want to remove the hood and try to rattle can it, although I can't see that lasting long. The top might be able to be spray painted just because it is less visible.
Repaint is definitely not an option, as it is completely out of price range. Kinda stuck with this ugliness I guess.
I saw this pumpkin thing on TW a few years back and thought it was funny. 5 dollar pumpkin and a dremel tool just to get some smiles out of people occasionally.
Today I picked up some 17 inch Sequoia wheels that I think I'm going to paint and use to mount some bigger tires on. It's about time for new tires anyways, and r17 is a more common size (at least in used tires that I see). If I never use them, oh well, I payed 50 bucks for the wheels and tires and 24 lug nuts.
I think I'm gonna go with some 285/75 r17 because it's kind of a happy medium in my mind between 33s and 35s. I like that they're not as wide as 315/75r16 so I should avoid at least SOME rubbing.
I've seen one other guy run 35s on a 1st gen tundra and he had to tub and trim fenders a little. He was running less lift and wider tires than Im planning though, so we will have to see. I'm not against tubbing and trimming but if I can avoid it, why not?
Current set of tires has worn kind of unevenly even with frequent rotations just because my cam adjusters are seized. That said, new LCAs are going on before new tires. I would try to just pull the bushings out of the current LCAs but most people that I've talked to about the seizing issue say that it's easier to just buy new LCAs.
Truck is still running great. I love it. I feel like I'm gonna get at least another 200k out of it, treating it right.
It has never, even since the 1st owner, been stored inside. During its two year sit, it was sitting outside under a tree. That lack of care for paint is starting to become more visible, as the paint on the hood and the top of the cab is visibly suffering. Never seen the kind of deterioration like what's happening on the hood. Kind of frustrating. Debating whether or not I want to remove the hood and try to rattle can it, although I can't see that lasting long. The top might be able to be spray painted just because it is less visible.
Repaint is definitely not an option, as it is completely out of price range. Kinda stuck with this ugliness I guess.
I saw this pumpkin thing on TW a few years back and thought it was funny. 5 dollar pumpkin and a dremel tool just to get some smiles out of people occasionally.
sixstringsteve
Well-Known Member
- Location
- UT
I once used a roller to paint my white Tacoma. It was a TON of work, but it turned out way better than a rattle can job.
Rocksy
Member
- Location
- Saratoga Springs, UT
Was this on Carlos? I just looked at your ttora build thread for it but didn't see anything. I'd like to know a little bit more about the process/prep/paint type. I'm learning to paint houses commercially right now, so I know how to paint in general but I don't know how different the process would be for an automotive application in this case.
sixstringsteve
Well-Known Member
- Location
- UT
Google "rustoleum roller paint job car." It involves thinning some rustoleum paint, wet sanding in between applications, and several coats. the results look fantastic though.
- Location
- West Jordan
I've seen paint issues similar to the "checking"(?) on your hood before on many ford cars from the late 90's/early 2000s. I was told it was due to a problem in the priming/paint process at the factory. No idea if that's what yours is, but it does look very similar. I'd just make sure the surface is smooth and then throw a vinyl wrap down over the hood and roof. I'm planning on the same process on a hood of my own.
Rocksy
Member
- Location
- Saratoga Springs, UT
This is a great idea. Looks like that's what I'm going to do in the spring. Some of these spots are down to bare metal so I'm going to give it some decent paint for now and then throw a 3m wrap on it in the spring. Thanks for this idea
Rocksy
Member
- Location
- Saratoga Springs, UT
Rolled some Rust-Oleum on for the winter. The chips on the hood were all the way to bare metal and I really didnt want to sand the whole front foot of the hood down to bare metal and have to worry about priming and all of that, so some of the deeper ones are still there, just painted over. Personally I'm okay with that. The rest of the truck is covered in paint imperfections so if the hood were perfect it would look out of place. The process of doing this was pretty easy and I had everything to do it except for the paint which was 8 dollars. That's a pretty good price for one heck of an aesthetic improvement, even if it isn't ideal.
We'll see how she holds up, most likely gonna throw a wrap on there come spring time. Thanks Steve for telling me about this method, way better results than rattle cans and for me it was easier. Less masking and worrying about orange peel, runs, etc.
These pics were taken right after the 3rd roof coat and the 4th hood coat. It looks more uniform now that it is 90% dry (oil based sucks). Gonna buff it to make it look even more uniform and give the whole truck a nice wash on Tuesday after the paint is at 100%.
We'll see how she holds up, most likely gonna throw a wrap on there come spring time. Thanks Steve for telling me about this method, way better results than rattle cans and for me it was easier. Less masking and worrying about orange peel, runs, etc.
These pics were taken right after the 3rd roof coat and the 4th hood coat. It looks more uniform now that it is 90% dry (oil based sucks). Gonna buff it to make it look even more uniform and give the whole truck a nice wash on Tuesday after the paint is at 100%.
Rocksy
Member
- Location
- Saratoga Springs, UT
In two months I will be married and living in an apartment 2 hours from the nearest garage that I can work in so I'm trying to wrap up some things and start some things before it gets a lot more difficult. On the list are a set of homemade skids and the 285/75/17 tires that I'm still on the search for. This week I want to start on a homemade rear bumper. 3 years ago we did White Rim in Moab with a buddy and he ended up rear ending me on the way home and destroying the rear bumper cover. I'd like better departure angles and a spare carrier anyways. I plan on cutting the bedsides but want to make it out of 3x5 rectangle tubing like another RME member Box Rocket did on his 1st gen tacoma years back. https://expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/box-rocket-03-dc-tacoma-build.39134/post-1341549
Basically want to do the same design with the tube wings. Don't know how it will work with the longer bedsides that I have but I like the simplicity of this bumper.
I was originally planning on buying one from coastal offroad but if I can make it myself I will save a ton of money and I like the look of this one better.
I am just unsure on how I am going to tie the frame rail brackets into the main tube of the bumper. Maybe I can even use the stock ones. I have a very limited set of tools. It will be made using an angle grinder and a Hobart Handler 185 welder that I have. I will need to find someone locally to bend the tube and to drill any holes I need. Should be a good first fab project for me. I've welded on tractors and trailers but the only thing I've welded on my truck and with this flux core welder were my sliders.
Here are some funny pics (funny to me now, it was a pain helping my buddy repair his vehicle after this) of the rear bumper. Dropped in a radiator on moab main st and then drove it home with the hood ratchet strapped down. Good thing those Honda Passports/Izuzu Rodeos cost like 500 bucks used.
Basically want to do the same design with the tube wings. Don't know how it will work with the longer bedsides that I have but I like the simplicity of this bumper.
I was originally planning on buying one from coastal offroad but if I can make it myself I will save a ton of money and I like the look of this one better.
I am just unsure on how I am going to tie the frame rail brackets into the main tube of the bumper. Maybe I can even use the stock ones. I have a very limited set of tools. It will be made using an angle grinder and a Hobart Handler 185 welder that I have. I will need to find someone locally to bend the tube and to drill any holes I need. Should be a good first fab project for me. I've welded on tractors and trailers but the only thing I've welded on my truck and with this flux core welder were my sliders.
Here are some funny pics (funny to me now, it was a pain helping my buddy repair his vehicle after this) of the rear bumper. Dropped in a radiator on moab main st and then drove it home with the hood ratchet strapped down. Good thing those Honda Passports/Izuzu Rodeos cost like 500 bucks used.
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