VP44 Bit the dust (2001 Cummins)

Herzog

somewhat damaged
Admin
Location
Wydaho
For future reference to anybody else, attached is a very good / detailed instructions for replacing a VP44 2nd Gen.

It's the best one I've been able to find.
 

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  • VP44 Replacment.pdf
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Herzog

somewhat damaged
Admin
Location
Wydaho
Well, I'm down to 3 bolts holding the pump in... I'll probably order one tomorrow so I can get it here.

My question is, what did you guys use to barr the engine? I only need to go a little more to be at 12 o'clock. I don't have a barring tool, is there another quick option?

Also, I need to source a puller if whoever I buy from doesn't send one. Looks like a simple T puller will work so that shouldn't be a big deal. :cool:

So far, the tear-down has only taken a couple hours and that's taking my time. :cool: This hasn't been bad at all.
 

I Lean

Mbryson's hairdresser
Vendor
Location
Utah
Well, I'm down to 3 bolts holding the pump in... I'll probably order one tomorrow so I can get it here.

My question is, what did you guys use to barr the engine? I only need to go a little more to be at 12 o'clock. I don't have a barring tool, is there another quick option?

Also, I need to source a puller if whoever I buy from doesn't send one. Looks like a simple T puller will work so that shouldn't be a big deal. :cool:

So far, the tear-down has only taken a couple hours and that's taking my time. :cool: This hasn't been bad at all.

I have a puller set similar to the one pictured in that instruction link, you're welcome to borrow if it'll work.
 

bryson

RME Resident Ninja
Supporting Member
Location
West Jordan
Well, I'm down to 3 bolts holding the pump in... I'll probably order one tomorrow so I can get it here.

My question is, what did you guys use to barr the engine? I only need to go a little more to be at 12 o'clock. I don't have a barring tool, is there another quick option?

Also, I need to source a puller if whoever I buy from doesn't send one. Looks like a simple T puller will work so that shouldn't be a big deal. :cool:

So far, the tear-down has only taken a couple hours and that's taking my time. :cool: This hasn't been bad at all.

Just put a 15mm socket on one of the 3 crank pulley bolts and give it a spin... It'll turn a lot easier than you think. You won't need the engine barring tool.
 

Herzog

somewhat damaged
Admin
Location
Wydaho
I ended up buying a "steering wheel puller" from Vatozone the other day when I was getting parts for our cherokee... don't ask... :ugh: The steering wheel puller worked like a charm. I pulled the pump all the way out last night and picked a new one locally. And since I took the old one directly in I didn't have to play the core charge game. :cool:

The new (reman) pump had a tag on it saying that it was rebuilt with original bosch parts. Everything about it looked right... plus I feel better knowing that I got it local and not from some random person on Ebay.

Threw the pump in, purged the air out and primed the system and it's running strong. Now I need to replace the input seal on my t-case. It dumped most of it's fluid just sitting there. :ugh: At least I hope that's what's leaking.
 

Herzog

somewhat damaged
Admin
Location
Wydaho
Overall the process was quite easy. I've done much harder work on vehicles before. A quick tip for the hard to reach injector lines in the back... find a stubby 3/4" box end wrench, or cut one down.

I cut a cheap 3/4" wrench in half and it worked perfect. Plus you can tighten all the lines down and know your not over torquing them with it.
 
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