welding my gears

KToy

Well-Known Member
Location
Herriman, UT
well then reweld them..

can i ask what sorta axles are we doing this too?

if its a d30 and d35 then bag it and buy new axles.
 

PBandCJ

like the "sam-itch"
Location
North Dakota
86 CJ-7 with D30 front amc20 rear still has two part axle shafts.
My biggest concern is driving on pavement with rear locked up and having snow ,ice is it go to scare the piss out of me tring to pull around :eek: or just use less of the long skinny petal? :confused:
 
one thing i noticed about a welded front is if you dont phase or clock your u-joints then steering realy sucks, if you phase them like drive shaft then they work much better. you should do this because if a drive shaft ( example ) is not put toghether with bolth u-joints in the right dircetion ( in line with eachother or phased ) then the bind and fight eachother.

my friends with YJ's weld there fronts and then run a POSI LOCK cable in the front so they can lock and unlock the front kinda a por mans selectable lockers, works great to.

one more thing about phasing your u-joints, some peaple think they can lock/unlock there hubs to phase them but if you think about it this wont work cause the carrier is locking them in the same posistion all the time, you could pull a shaft and turn it to the same direction as the other side but its better to weld them clocked, jason.
 

OCNORB

Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
Location
Alpine
KToy said:
less skinny pedal did it for a whole winter and i had no issues.

The first time your cruising down the relativley dry freeway and hit the spot under an offramp where the moisture from the day never evaporated and it's just freezing -- you will wish you had waited and put in selectables. It's amazing how fast the rear can pass the front! I was lucky and no one got hurt, but you never know.
 

PBandCJ

like the "sam-itch"
Location
North Dakota
I found a locker on ebay but it says for 3.74's only :confused: .....why and whats the different's... :bryson: I have 3.33's :confused: not one for locker smart's :sick:
 

KToy

Well-Known Member
Location
Herriman, UT
i didnt realize this was for a amc20. or whatever model 20.


but i would only weld a toy rear d44 d60 and 14b anything else is strong enough.

wait 10b and 12b
 

ryan iverson

parts collector
Location
no.ogden
lincoln

welded gears kick a$$ if your broke. im running rear lincoln locker and detroit front works very well d44 f and r !! the tires chirp a little on the road :)
 

PBandCJ

like the "sam-itch"
Location
North Dakota
PW at the shops has a model 20 with two piece axle and a detroit and has not had a problem? I had asked about him switching to a one piece and his anwser was why it has held up just fine? :confused: :confused: :confused:
 

way2nosty

Registered User
PBandCJ said:
PW at the shops has a model 20 with two piece axle and a detroit and has not had a problem? I had asked about him switching to a one piece and his anwser was why it has held up just fine? :confused: :confused: :confused:


I would give a welded 20 about a month before the axles are twisted like a churro, I welded a dana 41 before, a predicessor to the 44 and to the 20(IMHO), it has two piece axles, after a couple weeks it stripped the splines on the outside of the axle. and twisted the inner splines, and I never wheeled it, that was just from driving around on the pavement.
 

buck55

Registered User
Location
Sandy, UT
420willys said:
one thing i noticed about a welded front is if you dont phase or clock your u-joints then steering realy sucks, if you phase them like drive shaft then they work much better. you should do this because if a drive shaft ( example ) is not put toghether with bolth u-joints in the right dircetion ( in line with eachother or phased ) then the bind and fight eachother.

my friends with YJ's weld there fronts and then run a POSI LOCK cable in the front so they can lock and unlock the front kinda a por mans selectable lockers, works great to.

one more thing about phasing your u-joints, some peaple think they can lock/unlock there hubs to phase them but if you think about it this wont work cause the carrier is locking them in the same posistion all the time, you could pull a shaft and turn it to the same direction as the other side but its better to weld them clocked, jason.

I have my front 30 with a powertrax, is that why I am in 4hi i have a hard time turning???
you talked about phasing the axles, does that mean so both are in the same position on either side, and does that help?
 

way2nosty

Registered User
buck55 said:
I have my front 30 with a powertrax, is that why I am in 4hi i have a hard time turning???
you talked about phasing the axles, does that mean so both are in the same position on either side, and does that help?
It only applies to Welded Axles, WIth Your Power Track, When one side breaks loose to ratchet during a turn, the axles move out of phase anyway. and the phazing doesn't do that much 3-4 degrees at the most. check you're locker and hubs.
 
what do you mean by phasing the axles does not do to much, it meant the difference between turning and not turning on my friends yj with a welded Hp 44 front. and yes way2nosty is right the phasing axle only needs to be done when its welded front, jason.
 
Top