addifan
Registered User
- Location
- Sandy, Utah
I am looking at buying a '99 Grand Cherokee. What common problems do '99's have? What do I look for when buying a used 4x4 that has a lift and many extras?
What do you look for when buying a used 4x4?
- Thread starter addifan
- Start date
- Location
- Grantsville, Utah
Just make sure it wasn't rolled pullin into Valley Fair..
dont let someone jack up the price just because he put a little lift and tires on it, the way I look at it, you are just dressing up a vehicle that is still worth book value in order to sell it easier. Dont buy a car for over book value even if it has 10K$ invested in it, you will never get back out of it....
You want to look for regular problems, too, like how the engine sounds, miles, oil leaks, electronic problems, etc. Find out why the guy's selling it, when the last tune up was... check the under-carriage for scrapes or dents in the diff or axles, or any other major part. Make sure the t-case is working. Test drive its 4H and 4L. Notice fluid levels, cleanliness of the interior as well as under the hood. You want a vehicle that has been treated well, as routine maintenance is going to make your vehicle last longer. If you're just getting into 4x4's, have someone who's familiar with them check the lift and other mods to make sure they were installed properly and aren't going to fall off or break the first time you take it on a trail, or cause you to fail emissions... I'm not a Jeep person, so I can't tell you vehicle specific checks, but I do know a guy who's selling a mint condition samurai. I'm not sure if it's still up for sale, but it's been in Auto Trader for a while. I checked it out for a friend, and she had one of my mechanic friends check it out, too. Sweet rig. Just needs a spring over.
Anyway, I'm probably forgetting stuff on the check list, but that's a start. If in doubt, ask one of us to accompany you on the test drive, or have a mechanic check it. If the seller doesn't want you to have a mechanic check it, it's a bad deal. I've got a friend named Sam Chapman over at West Valley Dodge, and he's a Jeep guy. He could tell you a lot more about Jeeps than I can. Good luck!
Anyway, I'm probably forgetting stuff on the check list, but that's a start. If in doubt, ask one of us to accompany you on the test drive, or have a mechanic check it. If the seller doesn't want you to have a mechanic check it, it's a bad deal. I've got a friend named Sam Chapman over at West Valley Dodge, and he's a Jeep guy. He could tell you a lot more about Jeeps than I can. Good luck!
tweakeyjeep
Soccer Mom
- Location
- Sandy
A good engine test is rev it up in neutral to about 3k to 4k rpms... Let is sit there for about a minute to a minute and a half. Then let off the pedal and see how it idles. If it starts fluxuating (is that spelled right?) or bouncing around something's not right. But you said it's a 99, so it's probably in good condition.
When I bought my Jeep. We took it on a test drive and we did basic tests. We took it to the mall parking lot and tested acceleration, braking, did that idle test. Checked the lift and tires made sure everything looked good. Checked suspension and fluid levels.
Take it for a test drive on the freeway and on city streets and see how it performs.
What I found wrong with my Wrangler when I bought it. A spring in the leaf pack had broken, Oil was a little dirty, A tire was badly cupped and needed replacing, Very bad vibration coming from rear driveshaft.
I got a good deal on it, replaced the lift on the rear, changed oil, u-joints and had new shims put in, and bought a new tire. Now it runs like a champ.
Good luck.
When I bought my Jeep. We took it on a test drive and we did basic tests. We took it to the mall parking lot and tested acceleration, braking, did that idle test. Checked the lift and tires made sure everything looked good. Checked suspension and fluid levels.
Take it for a test drive on the freeway and on city streets and see how it performs.
What I found wrong with my Wrangler when I bought it. A spring in the leaf pack had broken, Oil was a little dirty, A tire was badly cupped and needed replacing, Very bad vibration coming from rear driveshaft.
I got a good deal on it, replaced the lift on the rear, changed oil, u-joints and had new shims put in, and bought a new tire. Now it runs like a champ.
Good luck.
addifan
Registered User
- Location
- Sandy, Utah
I would like another opinion. Would it be unwise for me to go from a '01 Audi A4 with 20,000 (approx) miles to a '99 Jeep GC with 70,000 (approx) miles? I am going to go look at the Jeep on Saturday and I will let you guys know what I think.
Thanks for the help so far everyone.
Thanks for the help so far everyone.
- Location
- South Carolina....no public land
just don't expect the same ride and handling from the GC as you got from the Audi.
definately take it to someone who knows 4x4s. Like someone said (samigrrl?), if they won't let you take it to a mechanic, they're trying to hide something.
Spork
Tin Foil Hat Equipped
- Location
- Saratoga Springs, UT
So why the switch?
addifan
Registered User
- Location
- Sandy, Utah
Honestly I don't know... I guess I just want something different. I have a bad habit of getting a new car about every two years.
I wish I lasted 2 years...I have had 9 cars in the last 2 years (since I have been married)...my new rig should satisfy me for a while though
...not a bad choice to go from a Audi to a GC...when I drive my wife's Jetta I feel like a pansy
...BUT Audis are sweet and is what we are getting my wife next...
I always check the frame and steering box for cracks or fatigue, play in the steering, solid shifts in an auto, pull the dip sticks check fluids, if it looks brand new I get nervous, I check exhaust temp to make sure it is not running super hot, If it is IFS I check the CV boots/joints I always check under carpet if possible for rust
I have pulled plugs and done a compression check, but that was only once (plugs were fouled and two cylinders had bad blow by, didn't buy it)
But all the vehicles I buy are at least 15 years old, my current rig is 30...
I have pulled plugs and done a compression check, but that was only once (plugs were fouled and two cylinders had bad blow by, didn't buy it
)But all the vehicles I buy are at least 15 years old, my current rig is 30...
- Location
- Sandy, Ut
Always inspect the frames on Grand Cherokees, they tend to rust quicker than the body.
George
Registered User
- Location
- Syracuse, Utah
I think he means where the frame SHOULD be. They are unibody and you will see a kind of structure as a kind of frame structure.
- Location
- Sandy, Ut
Yeah, thats exactly what I meant...
Sorry for all my XJ/ZJ jokes....
Kris K
4x4 Addict!
- Location
- Heber City, UT
Did you end up getting the Jeep cherokee?