What kind of joints and what size tubing?

[LT.]

Alrighty y'all, I am now starting to look for joints and tubing sizes for the Beater. This rig is driven on the road to get from camp to trail head and then back again. That is about all the road driving this thing sees. The Beater will also be sproting a newly built 440 to the tune of about 500-550 hp and should weigh somewhere around 5000 lbs when completed. So, what kind and type of joints should I use and what size of tubing should I use? I want the lowers to be extremely stout as I may use them as sliders and such. I am very much a beginer here so I really have no clue.

Y'all have helped me so much already and I would be very greatful for some more help. Thanks again RME'ers for all the continued help.

LT.

 

[RockMonkey]

It sounds like we're talking about some sort of link suspension here. For street use, rubber bushings will provide the nicest ride.

 

[Mope]

You'd want to use some type of rod end on one end of the link to keep things from binding up though, right?

 

[RockMonkey]

You'd want to use some type of rod end on one end of the link to keep things from binding up though, right?

For street use? No, that's not necessary. Jeeps come from the factory with 4 links and rubber bushings on both ends of the control arms.

 

[Mope]

For street use? No, that's not necessary. Jeeps come from the factory with 4 links and rubber bushings on both ends of the control arms.

Good point.


L.T. if you don't mind, I'll be following this thread as well because I'd like to do something like this later this winter.

 

[ChestonScout]

my lower link material is 2" with 1/2" wall. Needless to say it is VERY stout. I have had the weight of the whole scout on one arm with no bending. I had the ends drilled out and tapped for the 1 1/4 heim joints. Been working great for about 3 years now. If I remember right my uppers are 1 3/4 with 1/4" wall and 7/8" heims


If I do end up building a 3 or 4 link on the back instead of the 1 link I want to do.....I will use the same link material but I will use the Summit Machine flex joints instead of the heims. If money was not an issue I would get heims from Evolution machine (Clayton in the warthog from TTC). His work is insane! The heims are rediculasly strong and blinggy but they are spendy. But back to the flex joints. I would weld one side solid to the link and get the threaded additions for the joints on the other end for adjustabilty.

I have been extremely impressed with the flex joints that Im currently using. They still look brand spanking new inside but if they ever do wear out...ha ha ha...they are completely rebuildable. Priced very reasonably as well.

I have been happy with the heims on the front as well tho to. They are just a lot more money than the flex joints. Plus you get to support a RME vendor!

You could just have Summit machine make aluminum links for you. Extrememly light and plenty strong. Might be something to look into. I think thats what Bart used for his uppers on his buggy.


One thing to think about tho......I havent looked super close under the front end of the beater but make sure you dont run into the same problem I had with putting the upper links through the oil pan. Most vehicles it is hard to do a dual triangulated 4 link up front just because there is so much to clear. The dual tri is an awesome setup but so far I am just as happy if not happier with my triangulated lowers and straight uppers. Its just nice to know Im not going to hit anything...even with Rockwells.

 

[LT.]

It sounds like we're talking about some sort of link suspension here. For street use, rubber bushings will provide the nicest ride.

I guess that I should have clarified this somewhat. It only get used to go to and from the trail on the street. Its main purpose is for off road only. I trailer it to Moab and then it only drives on the street to get to the trail head. It will be a double triangulated four link suspension. Sorry about that.

LT.