jedi
aboogadaboogadaboogada
- Location
- the wvc, represent!
I have a zj on 35's, the tire's hit the lower control arms and limit the turning radius. My current rims are 15x8 with 4.5 bs I believe. I can't decide which route to take?
wheel spacers vs. rims with a deeper backset?
- Thread starter jedi
- Start date
spacer yes (inset set over the lugs) an "adapter" that bolts down and then has separate lugs is legal.
I would rather not run spacers if you don't have to. but it can also be Dependant on how much your wheels cost ect. I just see spacers as another breaking point, however if you don't buy cheap ones they are great.
I would rather not run spacers if you don't have to. but it can also be Dependant on how much your wheels cost ect. I just see spacers as another breaking point, however if you don't buy cheap ones they are great.
Unless it changes the bolt pattern, then even if they bolt on it's still "technically" a spacer. It all depends on who inspects it on wether they know the difference. I agree, I'm anti-spacers.
You do realize that backspace and offset are essentially the same thing? Just measured differently.
iamsparticus
Take your Rig to the Edge
- Location
- Ogden,Ut
It also depends on how wide the wheel is as far as offset and BS goes. I'm anti wheel spacers so i would say more backspacing. I was just looking at the saftey inspection manuel for utah and the section on spacers and adapters is funny they show a pic of a adapter and then a spacer and they are the same pic so no wonder people dont know what to fail and what to not, but i wont take the chance unless you have someone for sure to pass it
grandmaster
Let the build Re-begin
- Location
- St. George, Utah
I run spacers on my ZJ....front and rear....never had a single problem with them.
BCGPER
Starting Another Thread
- Location
- Sunny Arizona
Same here, have for years with no issues. You have to decide if you would rather replace your wheels, or space them out. The price is almost sixes for a set of spacers compared to a set of cheap wheels.
I've always ran a set on the rear of my GM and Toyota trucks, just to get the track width right. On my JK, I run 4 bacause I wanted to keep the stock Rubicon wheels.
I've always ran a set on the rear of my GM and Toyota trucks, just to get the track width right. On my JK, I run 4 bacause I wanted to keep the stock Rubicon wheels.
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- Location
- Sandy, Ut
How do you guys figure, it doesn't matter how wide the wheel is... if you have 4.5" BS your clearance is just that, whether you have some wicked wide wheel or a 5" wide wheel. Offset is just the ratio of the BS versus the front space, but 4.5" BS is still the same regardless of the offset, 6" wheel or 30" wide wheel. If you don't clear with a 4.5" assuming you have a wheel with the same shape profile, it won't clear with a +10, 0, -10 offset, offset is a pure function of width/BS or BS/FS, backspace is solo.
TJDukit
I.Y.A.A.Y.A.S.
- Location
- Clearfield
I feel the same about wheel spacers as I do a body lift. I've never run either and I never will if I can help it. Just from the safety standpoint on both I'd rather just not do either.
- Location
- Sandy, Ut
I'm less concerned with the failure mode of the bolt on wheel spacer proper than I am with the increased wear an tear on your axle components, particularly ball-joints and knuckle bearings on lighter duty front axles. However wheel spacer or low BS wheels will both have the same moment about inclination angle/axle centerline. It also changes the scrub radius and while we are not in race cars by any means, ideally you want the scrub radius to be zero (the factory designs them as such) and that scrub radius will result in a twisting force on the steering which increases steering effort, etc.
01XJ
Well-Known Member
- Location
- Pleasant Grove!
This would have been nice to know when i tried to get my jeep licensed a month ago. They failed me because i had these on the rig. Mine bolted down to existing lugs then the "Spacer/Adapter" had its own separate lugs the tire bolted on and they wouldn't let them pass:-\
ID Bronco
Registered User
- Location
- Idaho Falls, ID
I run 2.5 backspaced wheels to clear my radius arms. They have worked very well. I haven't seen a ton of extra wear on my ball joints ect. I personally kind of like the look of more backspaced wheel and only the outer rim bead gets beat up. My hubs are well protected by the wheel.
If money is no issue, get the right rims (no spacers). If money is tight, spacers are fine to use. I use them front and rear as well.
If you choose spacers. Please make sure they are torqued appropriately, and check the torque after a few miles.
I watched a TJ shear 6 lugs off a 9-inch on pritchett because of improper torquing on his spacers. It was his first run with them on.
If you choose spacers. Please make sure they are torqued appropriately, and check the torque after a few miles.
I watched a TJ shear 6 lugs off a 9-inch on pritchett because of improper torquing on his spacers. It was his first run with them on.
jedi
aboogadaboogadaboogada
- Location
- the wvc, represent!
have any of you used the rough country adapters?
pictures may say a 1000 words, but text is specific 
a lot of inspectors Generalize and base pass/fail on others opinions to much, and need to consult the book.... don't let the explanation of use confuse you, if you keep the same pattern=pass, if you change patterns=pass. it just says why people use them in most cases....
from the manual. Just below each picture.page 17 states spacers=fail,adapters=pass and how to classify each
PASS
NOTE: A wheel adaptor changes the bolt pattern of a vehicle’s hub and
moves the wheel out allowing the use of custom wheels for most cars.
Wheel adapters are not spacers.
FAIL
NOTE: A wheel spacer is fitted between the wheel and the hub, exchanging
the existing wheel studs for longer ones. The wheels are then fitted to
the hub/spacer with the existing wheel-nuts.
adapters and greater Back Spacing creates more leverage on the bearings and ball-joints, I don't think one is "better" or "worse" about this. just comes down to are you wanting to keep your wheels now and have 2 things to unbolt when you change you rotors/bearings axles ect... or 1? and eliminate one more breaking point. only seen 1 adapter fail. and it was overtightened, but it is adding a breaking point. however when swapping axles there can be times adapters can't be worked around you need them like tons of TOY guys use them to make an 80's solid axle the width of the 95+ TOY's....
a lot of inspectors Generalize and base pass/fail on others opinions to much, and need to consult the book.... don't let the explanation of use confuse you, if you keep the same pattern=pass, if you change patterns=pass. it just says why people use them in most cases....from the manual. Just below each picture.page 17 states spacers=fail,adapters=pass and how to classify each
PASS
NOTE: A wheel adaptor changes the bolt pattern of a vehicle’s hub and
moves the wheel out allowing the use of custom wheels for most cars.
Wheel adapters are not spacers.
FAIL
NOTE: A wheel spacer is fitted between the wheel and the hub, exchanging
the existing wheel studs for longer ones. The wheels are then fitted to
the hub/spacer with the existing wheel-nuts.
adapters and greater Back Spacing creates more leverage on the bearings and ball-joints, I don't think one is "better" or "worse" about this. just comes down to are you wanting to keep your wheels now and have 2 things to unbolt when you change you rotors/bearings axles ect... or 1? and eliminate one more breaking point. only seen 1 adapter fail. and it was overtightened, but it is adding a breaking point. however when swapping axles there can be times adapters can't be worked around you need them like tons of TOY guys use them to make an 80's solid axle the width of the 95+ TOY's....
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